tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-45063241476750342992024-03-16T13:50:17.511-05:00Chronicles of a Dog TrainerThe Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.comBlogger204125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-14672664953372092452022-08-16T14:55:00.011-05:002022-08-17T20:59:24.578-05:00Dogs & Toddlers: Don't pet the dog.<p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: x-large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc0IUazzRB2im6L1_EhlEp8G1VQuuqrsp9FNtpRe3fRF8gFF4ftN9ggiwzoIGKWghJphm_4YJenKUZu-OI2pvJW6-GNlNtnPrQv02TsbhcksLCV2xfrMavv9tEH_WJAMXs7i-QPDtcU6vI5pl1bOAZIcLl1G26Qtuh-ObCotNg2WyZsTOe5KzTj0W6/s845/boy%20w%20beagle%20on%20long%20line.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="684" data-original-width="845" height="164" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc0IUazzRB2im6L1_EhlEp8G1VQuuqrsp9FNtpRe3fRF8gFF4ftN9ggiwzoIGKWghJphm_4YJenKUZu-OI2pvJW6-GNlNtnPrQv02TsbhcksLCV2xfrMavv9tEH_WJAMXs7i-QPDtcU6vI5pl1bOAZIcLl1G26Qtuh-ObCotNg2WyZsTOe5KzTj0W6/w203-h164/boy%20w%20beagle%20on%20long%20line.jpeg" width="203" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">You want your toddler and your dog to be pals. You work hard on teaching your child"gentle" by showing her how to nicely pet Fluffy. You may even take her hand and help her stroke the dog correctly and gently. </span></span></div></span></div><div><b style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b style="font-family: arial;">What if I told you to stop letting your toddler pet your dog?</b><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold;">What if I told you that your toddler has no reason to pet your dog?</span></span></div><div><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">For the sake of stating it over and over in this blog, when I use the word "toddler" I'm referring to children in the 2-4 years of age range.</span></p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b style="font-family: arial;">It's best that toddlers have has zero access to the family dog <i>unless</i> a parent is in the room and proactively supervising</b><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial;">(planning and preparing safe separation with a gate, crate or x-pen) or actively supervising (actively interacting with the dog and child on proper interactions between the two). </span></span></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.familypaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/5-types-Supervision-HR.compressed.pdf" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1550" data-original-width="2048" height="147" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0u9Rhgsm1b4/YI3jc3D5NyI/AAAAAAACGSA/9mhnyYkGnGwDFsPmzH8g5qcDTLPQQXp3ACLcBGAsYHQ/w194-h147/Screen%2BShot%2B2021-05-01%2Bat%2B6.25.19%2BPM.png" width="194" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><div><b style="font-weight: bold;">Successful separation can be done via crates, gates and x-pens</b> with what <a href="http://familypaws.com" target="_blank">Family Paws Parent Education</a> has coined as "Success Stations"<i>(read my <a href="http://bit.ly/successstations" target="_blank">blog</a> on Success Stations <a href="http://bit.ly/successstations" target="_blank">here</a>.)</i> See the poster from Family Paws Parent Education on supervision stages to the right. Click the picture to download it.</div></span><p></p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The thing with toddlers is that they are mostly impulsive and parents aren't being proactive with supervision because they don't realize how critical this is. This is when I usually get the call because the dog reacts aggressively after being pestered for the last time. Parents are at the point of blame for the dog when in fact the dog reacted normally </span><i style="font-family: arial;">for an animal</i><span style="font-family: arial;"> in response to being pestered and/or hurt.<br /></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>So, for this age group it's best to have <i>very short interactions</i> with the dog and those should be respectful toward the body language of the dog. </b>Does the pet want to be petted or scratched? </span><span style="font-family: arial;">You'd be surprised how many people don't know when a dog really does not want to be petted. </span><i style="font-family: arial;">(I wrote a <a href="http://bit.ly/doeshewanttopet" target="_blank">blog</a> that explains <a href="http://bit.ly/doeshewanttopet" target="_blank">how you can tell</a> when and when not to pet a dog.)</i></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><i style="font-family: arial;"><br /></i><span style="font-family: arial;">E</span><span style="font-family: arial;">ven if a dog does want to be petted I am still not completely on board for allowing children in the 2-4 age group to learn to pet a dog. Yes, you heard that. And yes, you may feel like clicking off here now. You may be thinking ––"My child cannot pet the dog?! Why?!!! That's absurd!" But hear me out . . .</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b style="font-family: arial;">My training focuses on teaching you to have children that appropriately co-exist with the family dog, and how to make that last for the life of the dog.</b><b style="font-family: arial;"> </b><span style="font-family: arial;">This can include a few things such as: dropping food on the floor (treats) a couple of times or having the child set the food bowl down at mealtimes. You can also have the child throw a toy or ball for a dog that enjoys that.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span>The above are </span><i>appropriate</i><span> interactions that still allow the child to hang out and interact with the dog while each party is in a respectful place and mindset. Once this is achieved your child and dog will form a lovely relationship and petting won't be a concern, over time.</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Children in this age group just aren't good at ph</b></span><b style="font-family: arial;">ysical touch, in regards to pets. </b><span style="font-family: arial;">They are often too forceful with touch, do too much stroking (over and over), or they become a bit aggressive. This might include hard petting, pulling hair, tails and/or ears, or even hitting. These aren't ok, and because gentle petting can escalate to more aggressive forms of touch quickly, it's best to not encourage any forms of touching with toddlers.</span></span></div><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUoBZe1Kv7pOvS4DabebuWKK26WWwsZ6CZM4-1_xJDTCkMFJxlx52GIrENaeDbBdQqb8llooMPKkHAz803tcaBEH05U9jpHJYcSfPZbGD3ijp3VjFDa-bthhj7Xo8MId2Ak54c9d9E0IGeuOlqF48o70fQUl9KFqA7TL3pdXn5E9dQUBc5oDyGWsaG/s547/girl_reading_to_dog.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="clear: left; float: left; font-family: arial; font-size: medium; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="381" data-original-width="547" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUoBZe1Kv7pOvS4DabebuWKK26WWwsZ6CZM4-1_xJDTCkMFJxlx52GIrENaeDbBdQqb8llooMPKkHAz803tcaBEH05U9jpHJYcSfPZbGD3ijp3VjFDa-bthhj7Xo8MId2Ak54c9d9E0IGeuOlqF48o70fQUl9KFqA7TL3pdXn5E9dQUBc5oDyGWsaG/w200-h140/girl_reading_to_dog.jpeg" width="200" /></span></a></div><b style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;">Having a toddler learn to pet a dog isn't a goal you should have. Your child will grow up and there will be <i>plenty</i> of opportunities for your child to be able to pet and touch your dog.</b><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"> Your goal should be a dog and child that coexist and get along well together. Petting will come later.</span><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">I evaluate each family, dog and child to set up a plan of action specific to each family's needs. Each program is specific to help your dog and your family. So I will not go into any training plans on this blog. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I do virtual consults all over the world and can help with more great tips, tricks and fun ways to teach your child to have appropriate interactions with your dog if you'd like to go deeper into this! </span><b style="font-family: arial;">Email me if you need help! –– <a href="mailto:stacy@sunshinedog.com">stacy@sunshinedog.com</a></b><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihkz3oJhkGa5Q9oziXraIxKAyNKpeTQ6TwdeI-4EzEW6ve8PjnW_3iANiISixRuPYgRE-T3Ic1MIb7T3TXk2GKj-3iLFPT-Sk4zASR7MgEV1dfdVM-WuD4BOUJVr_7iP8aG_budchG_dvJjFFW0jVA44iB7e8FOghYGiE_14chcnp-Zh17dAV-EF4C/s477/Stacy%20Greer,%20CPDT-KA%20(12).png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="477" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihkz3oJhkGa5Q9oziXraIxKAyNKpeTQ6TwdeI-4EzEW6ve8PjnW_3iANiISixRuPYgRE-T3Ic1MIb7T3TXk2GKj-3iLFPT-Sk4zASR7MgEV1dfdVM-WuD4BOUJVr_7iP8aG_budchG_dvJjFFW0jVA44iB7e8FOghYGiE_14chcnp-Zh17dAV-EF4C/s320/Stacy%20Greer,%20CPDT-KA%20(12).png" width="320" /></span></a></div><p></p></div>The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-15827308589049977432020-12-30T05:25:00.085-06:002022-10-25T22:05:51.470-05:00He does it for YOU, but not me ... why?!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b1v88FaMC6Y/X01SSBsHEXI/AAAAAAACFp0/63wbWWlBD6s4Pri-UhikU2A5BQHS6AMBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s850/long_down_stay.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="567" data-original-width="850" height="175" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b1v88FaMC6Y/X01SSBsHEXI/AAAAAAACFp0/63wbWWlBD6s4Pri-UhikU2A5BQHS6AMBwCLcBGAsYHQ/w262-h175/long_down_stay.jpg" width="262" /></span></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I've had the last few of my board-n-train dogs' owners say to me, "you're so patient and gentle when you're training"</b> with (insert their dog's name). I had one lady say it to me after every video I'd send of us working together, i.e., me and her dog. It was very kind of her to say. It struck me though as she said it in a way that sounded like she was surprised I could get such compliance out of her dog by being so kind and patient.</span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">People think that I'm magic and wish they could get the compliance from their dog that I can get. Guess what, you can! <b>Communication and delivery of said communication is key! </b><br /><br />I find it sad that people feel like they cannot get their dog to "listen" or train without being loud or worse. <b>Training a dog doesn't require anyone to use a harsh tone, yell, physically manipulate the dog or any other number of more non-patient or gentle ways in order to get a dog to do what you ask. </b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">You can actually train your dog to do anything without being a loud, stern and/or a harsh. <b>I think it's been believed for so long that we must show this absolute domination over our dogs that we have lost sight of the fact that dogs do have emotional cups just like humans do.</b> They can become stressed just like humans. Often a dog that doesn't "listen" or work for someone isn't doing it because they are dumb or stubborn, they are doing it because the trainer isn't carrying out the training in a way that fits the dog in front of them.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HeCjgcpmP9U/X-znXfE-t2I/AAAAAAACGAA/Hx2CbTILbr8BszFvWfjw5ELqSra7ddf1wCLcBGAsYHQ/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-12-30%2Bat%2B2.47.17%2BPM.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img alt="" data-original-height="906" data-original-width="752" height="200" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HeCjgcpmP9U/X-znXfE-t2I/AAAAAAACGAA/Hx2CbTILbr8BszFvWfjw5ELqSra7ddf1wCLcBGAsYHQ/w166-h200/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-12-30%2Bat%2B2.47.17%2BPM.png" width="166" /></span></a></div><p></p><p></p><span style="font-size: medium;">One of my daughters is an incredibly sensitive and anxious person. If I'm frustrated with her she'll mentally go haywire. I noticed this when she was pretty young. I recall once she spilled a gallon jug of sweet tea (read: sticky!) all over my floor and I was having a day as it was and I got very mad and yelled at her. I yelled "GET SOME TOWELS! DON'T JUST STAND THERE!" She actually fumbled around like she didn't even know what a towel was. She was probably 7 years old, so she clearly knew what a towel was. I got more angry as the tea trickled down my kitchen floor filling the floor with more sticky sweet tea. I finally just got up and grabbed some towels from my bathroom myself. After this little incident happened I realized that mentally she began to shutdown after I became so angry at her. She couldn't really even think in the moment so she <i>appeared</i> to not know what to do or where to get a towel from. This was just her anxiety taking over in that moment of my harsh response to the situation and lack of her so-called compliance at my request.</span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Dogs can respond the same way my daughter did –– seemingly as if they are dumb and don't know what to do, or not do anything and seem obstinate. Neither of those is actually what is going on, though. The dog is likely mentally shaken up and in a small state of "crap, crap, crap" and so they can respond in a way that isn't what we want. What is interesting is that dogs respond in several different ways when they are presented with something that stresses them out or causes confusion and/or frustration. </span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5zBe44LUYfQ/X9qQzL_32oI/AAAAAAACF9A/9H1Kq3_UQOsTMHCtC7UHxZXQNhuqCEgggCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/dog-zoomies.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1579" data-original-width="2048" height="154" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5zBe44LUYfQ/X9qQzL_32oI/AAAAAAACF9A/9H1Kq3_UQOsTMHCtC7UHxZXQNhuqCEgggCLcBGAsYHQ/w200-h154/dog-zoomies.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;">I've seen dogs that are frustrated, confused and/or shutdown do the following behaviors in response to their owner's yelling, punishment and/or frustration:<br /></span><p></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-size: medium;">freeze / do nothing</span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">do a quick sit</span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">become mouthy</span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">become bouncy or jump all over the person</span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">quickly run off</span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">get a case of the zoomies</span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">act goofy</span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">roll over & show their belly<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">snarl or growl</span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">snap </span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">urinate</span></li><li><span style="font-size: medium;">defecate</span></li></ul><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">I realize that dogs can often be annoying, frustrating and hard to manage . . . when we don't know what to do or how to do it. However, <b>this is also why it's critical to do the following . . .</b></span></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">1) Learn to understand dog behavior, body language & what it all means. </span></b></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>2) Forget all that dominance and alpha theory stuff, it's pretty much all wrong! </b><i>(sources <a href="https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/behavior/debunking-the-alpha-dog-theory/" target="_blank">here</a>, <a href="https://dogbizsuccess.com/danger-dominance-theory/" target="_blank">here</a> & <a href="https://www.dogwelfarecampaign.org/why-not-dominance.php" target="_blank">here</a> & video <a href="https://youtu.be/GZJDhJdEUqM" target="_blank">here</a>)</i></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>3) Hire a trainer that actually understands dog behavior & how to apply learning theory properly in training. </b><i>(Read my blog post <a href="https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2020/04/what-kind-of-dog-pro-do-i-need.html" target="_blank">here</a> on how to find the right professional)</i></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>4) Take a step back & breathe.</b> If you are finding yourself frustrated or your dog isn't doing what you ask, crate your dog with a safe chewy & leave the room.</span></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">5) Did you hire that qualified professional yet? </span></b><span style="font-size: large;">Dogs can learn without the use of positive punishment (learn those operant conditioning quadrants so you know what this is!) purposely being applied to get what you want. This means any dog, any breed, any age, any size. Certain breeds don't require special macho training or a "more dominant leader". </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>You know what every single dog needs in order to learn and comply? Someone who knows what they are doing</b>; someone who knows how to apply the proper methods and tools all while keeping the dog's welfare, body language and behavior in mind.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">We lose sight of the fact that dogs are not robots. We often feel that a dog "should do X" because ... he's a dog! "Why can't he just ______!" </span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xxjfDVkQXRU/X-zmycloTTI/AAAAAAACF_4/bCeZPmyDaXocEpdj6eCXCUH4cYWNmhzaQCLcBGAsYHQ/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-12-30%2Bat%2B2.44.51%2BPM.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img alt="" data-original-height="496" data-original-width="476" height="200" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xxjfDVkQXRU/X-zmycloTTI/AAAAAAACF_4/bCeZPmyDaXocEpdj6eCXCUH4cYWNmhzaQCLcBGAsYHQ/w192-h200/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-12-30%2Bat%2B2.44.51%2BPM.png" width="192" /></span></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;">I could go on and on about how many people put such high expectations on these fabulous mammals we have as family companions. We don't realize that all behavior happens for a reason. </span><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Dogs don't do things to purposely be annoying or a burden. It's our job to figure out why a dog does do what he does and why.</b> That's when we can use that information to get the behavior we want, in a manner that suits the learner and the trainer! </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The best way to best help your dog is to find a qualified professional that can help you.</b> Ask me how, or <a href="https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2020/04/what-kind-of-dog-pro-do-i-need.html" target="_blank">read my blog post</a> on how to choose a qualified professional.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I37k5uTl37c/X-xha_cmqQI/AAAAAAACF_s/RrHURXfO0b8tGBujjW7cSJlwud3mfK_dQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1416/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-12-30%2Bat%2B5.15.38%2BAM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="976" data-original-width="1416" height="276" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I37k5uTl37c/X-xha_cmqQI/AAAAAAACF_s/RrHURXfO0b8tGBujjW7cSJlwud3mfK_dQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h276/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-12-30%2Bat%2B5.15.38%2BAM.png" width="400" /></span></a></div></div>The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-85914988183618199922020-07-04T19:36:00.004-05:002022-05-24T12:46:50.095-05:00Stop messing with your dog while he eats!<span style="font-size: medium;">Yeah this blog title is abrupt, right?! But here's the thing . . . somewhere back when someone gave the advice to "put your hand in your dog's food and mess with it while he's eating so he gets used to you doing that and he won't become aggressive around his food . . ." <b>Sadly, this advice will do no such thing, and at its worst it will actually <i>cause</i> your dog to become aggressive around food.</b> This is called Resource Guarding behavior.<br />
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Guarding things isn't a totally abnormal behavior in canines but it isn't acceptable or safe behavior when we have to live with those dogs and give them all the things that they deem as "resources". This is especially true if/when children live in the home or are around these dogs often. This can range in manageable behavior to dangerous behavior. </span></div>
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For dogs resources that are valuable will vary from dog to dog but most dogs feel that these common things are valuable resources –– food, toys, treats, bones, beds (or sleeping spots), and sometimes their people (or just one person). If a dog feels that any of these valuable resources are at risk of being taken away and they are conflicted about that they could start to show resource guarding behaviors when around these things. <b>Resource guarding behaviors usually look like one, some or all of these behaviors –– dog lowers head, growls, snarls, snaps, bites and/or lunges to tell the offender to back away and "this is mine, you cannot come near it!" </b></span></div>
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It should be known that some dogs will live their whole lives and never guard anything or show any signs of stress when someone comes to take something from them. However, it's still always a good idea to never test a dog or do things that could possibly cause a dog to feel the need to become a resource guarder. </span></div>
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Sadly, this behavior can be taught and when it is no one ever knows that's what they have done as no one ever intends to teach their dog to become aggressive around resources! I've heard some really poor advice given to people (or that they've read somewhere) on ways to "prevent your dog from becoming a resource guarder" which actually will do the very opposite for some dogs and teach them to actually become resource guarders. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The old advice to put your hands in your pup's food when he's eating or mess with them while they eat is some of <i>the worst advice</i> you could ever take on this matter.</b> This will cause more stress and likely teach a dog that may have never felt a need to guard suddenly feel the need to do so. Why? How? Well, let's use you as an example. You're sitting down with your meal, about to enjoy a bite when your spouse reaches over and starts putting their hands in your mashed potatoes. They do this every meal and finally one day you slap their hand as you see them reach over toward your plate. You've had enough! You just want to eat in peace! While do get that dogs aren't humans, the analogy is pretty much the same only dogs have teeth to use as "back off" signals rather than words or hands that slap!<br />
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<b>Messing with dogs while they eat in any fashion builds frustration, and sometimes builds such frustration that the dog becomes aggressive about it.</b> They literally just want to eat with no on messing with them. So, it's only going to teach the dog that being messed with when eating is super annoying, at best. <b>At worst, it will teach a dog that they should defend their food so that the annoying humans will back off and let them eat in peace.</b></span></div>
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Often dogs that are <i>not</i> confrontational will develop some behaviors around food but these behaviors may not actually develop into aggressive or dangerous behaviors. Something that I often see with a dog that is uneasy about someone taking their food or just a perceived threat around their food is that they become incredibly fast eaters. They will almost inhale their food. They feel very uneasy so they eat quickly to get the meal over with so that they can be done and hopefully have no one mess with them. <b>Some dogs will start out what we'd call "fine" but then develop some more concerning behaviors due to how they are treated when around food</b> or some other things that may cause them to have preconceived notions around eating. </span></div>
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Now, with all of this said you should know that some dogs that are resource guarders are not this way due to some poor advice that the owners followed through with unknowingly. <b>Genetics has a huge role in resource guarding behaviors and some breeds are more predisposed to guarding behaviors than others. </b>So, sometimes you'll have a dog that resource guards without any past behaviors that would or may have caused them to do so. <b>Some dogs will become resource guarders due to circumstances they lived in such as living with a lot of dogs and resources were scarce or living on the streets and resources were scarce.</b> There can be other reasons that dogs guard resources that may not having anything to do with associations made due to humans and their interactions around food.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>All that to say that it's important to know that we should be leaning towards teaching dogs that good things happen when people are around food, </b>so that resource guarding behaviors never become a thing in the first place!<br />
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<b><br /><br />So what does one do to <i>prevent</i> resource guarding from happening</b><span style="background-color: white; font-weight: bold;">*</span><b>?</b><br />
<i style="background-color: #fff2cc;"><span><u>Note:</u> If your dog already exhibits some resource guarding please seek a professional's help first and foremost. The following is only suitable for dogs that are show no signs of stress, frustration or aggression around their food bowl currently*.</span></i><br />
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<b>Make eating with people around = good things!</b> When going near your dog's food just casually drop some high value food into their bowl, then just walk on by. This could look like you grabbing up some little pieces of cheese or boiled chicken, walk by and drop several pieces of that into your dog's bowl. Then just walk away. Say nothing. Do nothing but drop the food in and go.<br />
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You could call your dog away and feed him higher value food and then let him return to the bowl as well. <i>However, I'm not as keen on this one</i> because it could possibly cause some frustration if they are interrupted while eating. Interruption while eating can be a reason for frustration build up and/or anxiety to build up. So, if you use this little technique be sure to be 100% sure your dog is enjoying it and it's benefiting the situation and not building stress or frustration. If you're not sure then nix it and just stick to the dropping the bowl thing!<br />
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I won't go into a detailed bit about what to do or not do any further as this can be such a problematic behavior that I feel a professional should always be consulted for anything related to resource guarding. <b>There is a great read by <a href="https://www.puppyleaks.com/reduce-resource-guarding/" target="_blank">Puppyleaks here</a> with much more detail and <a href="https://www.puppyleaks.com/reduce-resource-guarding/" target="_blank">info on resource guarding</a>. I do recommend you read it! </b></span></div>
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<em style="background-color: #ffe599; box-sizing: border-box; color: #222222; font-family: "Open Sans", sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">*Disclaime</strong><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">r:</strong> Resource guarding is a serious behavior. If your dog is a resource guarder it is advised that you seek the <a href="http://iaabc.org/" target="_blank">help of a professional</a><span id="goog_911337805"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_911337806"></span>. Resource guarding won’t just go away, and it tends to gets worse if not managed properly. A professional is the best course of action even if you're unsure whether your dog's behavior is safe or unsafe. If you need help locating a qualified professional <a href="mailto:stacy@sunshinedog.com" target="_blank">let me know</a> and I'll help you find one.</span></em></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-32830610021921798352020-06-22T23:40:00.005-05:002023-01-03T15:58:13.054-06:00When it's not behavior.<div style="clear: right; float: right;">
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<a href="https://img.huffingtonpost.com/asset/59e8f8bd140000590d8c8b90.jpeg?ops=scalefit_630_noupscale" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img alt="Your Dog Making A 'Sad Puppy Face' May Be Trying To Tell You ..." border="0" height="133" src="https://img.huffingtonpost.com/asset/59e8f8bd140000590d8c8b90.jpeg?ops=scalefit_630_noupscale" style="cursor: move;" width="200" /></span></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>When dogs do something that humans don't like or that is out of character for the dog it's very common for most people to immediately blame it on the dog's behavior.</b> The dog is often mis-labeled as "naughty" or "spiteful" or even "dumb". More dangerously, the dog is often mis-labeled as "dominant". More on the whole "dominant" thing later . . . Let's look at more common [and logical] explanations for behavior that we don't like or that are a bit "off" in our companion dogs.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>BEYOND A NAUGHTY DOG</b><br />
<b>Anxiety and/or stress can cause a dog to present with a wide range of behaviors</b>, many of which can look more like an un-trained dog or what some would label as a "naughty" dog. For example, excessive defecating and/or urinating can be a sign of anxiety. Dogs that chew excessively or destroy things can be anxious or stressed and do these behaviors as a "stress release". Dogs can withdraw or hide when nervous or anxious and be mis-labeled as "shy". There are quite a few behaviors dogs can present when they are stressed and/or anxious. <b>It's critical to get a proper evaluation for accurate diagnosis and treatment.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Dogs don't always show a lot of symptoms or let us know when they are in pain. </b>So, if your dog is acting in a way that you don't approve or is doing something you really want to be angry about (like snapping at your kids!) then don't jump to the conclusion that your dog is bad or aggressive or needs you to be "more dominant" (never assume this!). Instead, <b>make an appointment with your vet to rule out a physical and/or medical cause. Also, find a qualified trainer or behavior consultant</b> (need to know how to know who to hire? Read my blog on <a href="https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2020/04/what-kind-of-dog-pro-do-i-need.html" target="_blank">choosing the right professional here</a>) to help set up a proper behavior modification program that will benefit everyone involved.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Growling when being touched could be anxiety or the dog is in pain </b>and has not been diagnosed yet<b> </b>with what is causing the pain. The same goes for snapping or biting.<br />
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Potty accidents are a main cause of stress in many dog owners, for obvious reasons. However, it's critical to know what the cause of your dog's potty accidents are before jumping to any conclusions. Always set up an appointment with your veterinarian first and go from there. <b>Never assume your dog is doing something "on purpose" or because she's "mad at you". Those are never reasons a dog does any behavior, there is always a reason and it's important to find out what that reason is</b> so that it may be addressed <i>appropriately</i>.<br />
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I remember some years ago I had a client have one of her dogs very uncharacteristically attack her other dog. She was so angry at the dog for attacking her other dog unprovoked. She had every right to be upset but I calmly explained that it was important we find out why the dog would do this when he had never done this before. Upon further investigation we found that the dog had a tumor on his leg she didn't know about and when the dogs were playing we think he likely caused the dog a lot of pain and so the dog just reacted out of pain.<br />
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I've also seen dogs that had urinary tract infections (UTIs) get attacked, seemingly "out of no where" by another dog in the home. Once the owner took both dogs to the vet it was discovered that the one <i>being</i> attacked had a very bad UTI that had likely been going on undiagnosed for quite some time. It doesn't seem to make sense that the sick dog would be the victim, however, this is a case in point here. <b>This is the reason it's very important to always look at the root cause instead of jump to conclusions.</b><br />
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If you feel your dog is doing things as a "naughty dog" or out of "dominance" you'll treat your dog differently and it will have an effect on your dog's future behavior. This would likely not be a good thing as you'll be reacting out of frustration and/or anger, which will only lead to more problematic behavior.<br />
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<b>In conclusion, never assume. Always look into a mental, neurological, physical and/or medical cause for your dog's behavior and then go from there on a plan of action.</b> </span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">On a last note . . . <u><i>Never</i></u>, ever assume your dog's behavior is due to "dominance" that is rarely, if ever, a reason for any dog's behavior. If you'd like to read more on this please <a href="https://www.4pawsuniversity.com/post/2017/05/15/seriously-its-not-dominance" target="_blank">read this article here</a>.<br />
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</div>The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-30274750207954320192020-04-30T02:42:00.002-05:002023-10-07T14:26:51.880-05:00What kind of dog pro do I need & how do I find one?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Finding the right type of dog professional can be a daunting task.</span></b><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"> There are so many "titles" that dog professionals use. Sadly, some are made up, some come with a little education while others come with a vast amount of education and certification. It's a huge range!</span><br />
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</span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Why is this?</b> Sadly, it's difficult to know who is who and what each person does <b>because the dog training industry is not regulated and there are no governing bodies to qualify a person in the dog training and behavior industry.</b> There are no degrees or formal education for a dog trainer. Anyone can become a dog trainer. There are many "schools" out there with their own type of "certification", heck I even attended one way back in 1999. However, this still isn't a green light that one should immediately say, "Oh then he must be a qualified trainer..." Sadly that may or may not hold true. <b>The best way to find a good trainer is by referral and your own observation and interview process.</b> <i>I'll give you more info on this later ...</i></span><br />
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</span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>WHO IS WHO?</b></span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Professionals in the pet-behavior field fall into a few different categories (according to myself):</span><br />
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<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Dog Trainers</span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Certified Professional Dog Trainers (CPDTs)</span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Behavior Consultants (CDBCs)</span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorist (DACVBs)</span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (ACAABs) & </span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (CAABs)</span></span></li>
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>1. Dog Trainers.</b><br />
This could be anyone, and by anyone I mean anyone. So, this is the most loose category that there is. However, there are lots of trainers that are actually quite qualified in their skillset, continuing education and training abilities. But there is a huge hole where anyone could walk up to you and say "hey, I'm a dog trainer need some training for your dog?" and they could have read one book and trained 2 dogs and decided to make a career of it. So, this category can be hard to navigate through when hiring a professional.</span><br />
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</span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Most box-store trainers go through a program provided by said box-store but it's minimal and doesn't give near the amount of education and training that should be required to train people and their dogs. However, some box-store trainers are totally fine for basic training classes and minimal problem behaviors if you're not looking for anything fancy or too formal. Ask the trainer about their background and where they learned to become a dog trainer. Many trainers started out as box-store trainers only to advance their training career to learn and educate themselves more and become even more skilled and knowledgable! </span><br />
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">There are also trainers out there that do not get any type of certification as listed in our next category but do attend seminars, join organizations that provide education and conferences (such as the <a href="https://apdt.com/" target="_blank">Association of Professional Dog Trainers</a> [APDT], <a href="https://www.petprofessionalguild.com/" target="_blank">The Pet Professional Guild</a> [PPG] and <a href="https://www.clickertraining.com/library?source=kpctnavbar" target="_blank">Karen Pryor Clicker Training</a> [which offers the ever wonderful <a href="https://clickerexpo.clickertraining.com/" target="_blank">Clicker Expo</a> and many fabulous online resources] in order to further their skills and education. Many trainers are still wonderful trainers even without certification, although it's definitely recommended that one does aim to achieve certification at some point. </span></div>
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>2. Certified Professional Dog Trainers (CPDTs).</b><br />
Not all dog trainers have any formal education, but some do further their education, as mentioned in the last paragraph above. Many are self-taught and self-educated, which may be a red flag if they do not further their education and skillsets on an on-going basis. So, the key here is how they are furthering their skills and education in their field. However, it's definitely preferable to hire someone who has chosen to educate themselves through some type of academy, program or by becoming certified through the <a href="https://www.ccpdt.org/certification/dog-trainer-certification/" target="_blank">Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers</a> to earn their CPDT-KA status and/or their CPDT-KSA title. To learn more about these certifications for trainers, and even find a list of certified trainers, visit the <a href="https://www.ccpdt.org/certification/dog-trainer-certification/" target="_blank">CCPDT website</a>.</span></div>
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Some trainers-to-be choose to go through an academy that provides individuals with the proper education and training to become a trainer. Here are some recommended training academies that provide quality training, education and how to apply these skills when training dogs and coaching people to train their dogs. Each of these academies has their own type of "certification" that the individual will receive upon testing, meeting certain criteria, and completion of their program. Each of these websites also provides a list of trainers that have graduated from their program so you may look for one in your area.</span></div>
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<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.academyfordogtrainers.com/" target="_blank">The Academy for Dog Trainers</a></span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://catchdogtraining.com/" target="_blank">CATCH Canine Trainers Academy</a></span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://karenpryoracademy.com/courses/dog-trainer-professional/" target="_blank">The Karen Pryor Academy </a></span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://peaceablepaws.com/peaceable-paws-intern-academies/" target="_blank">Peaceable Paws Academies</a></span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.vsdogtrainingacademy.com/" target="_blank">Victoria Stilwell Academy</a></span></li>
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>3. Certified Dog Behavior Consultants (CDBCs).</b></span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Many dog trainers also cross over into learning about behavior. It's pretty difficult to not know behavior to some degree if you want to be any good at training on any level, but especially if you are going to deal with more problematic behaviors in dogs. As with dog trainers, anyone can call themselves a behavior consultant and some even have titles that aren't even real titles, such as "behavioralist". So, do be wary of those! </span><br />
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</span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">A behavior consultant will have a solid understanding of how to apply dog training skills, read and understand body language and design an appropriate behavior modification program to help dogs with various behavior challenges. A behavior consultant will also be able to know when it's appropriate to call in a Veterinary Behaviorist in the event a case may warrant the use of medication for the dog to be successful with the laid out behavior modification process. <br /><br />One of the best organizations to find a qualified behavior consultant for your pet dog is the <a href="https://iaabc.org/" target="_blank">International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants</a> (IAABC). It has a very extensive and wonderful certification program for individuals that have been training animals (they have certifications for dog, cat, horse and parrot consultants) and meet certain criteria in order to be able to be certified through their organization. The IAABC also has extensive criteria they must meet in order to show that they are able to properly consult and help pet owners with their behavior problems. The program is one of the best ones out there for becoming a CDBC (Certified Dog Behavior Consultant). You can read more about their requirements for certification and find a professional on their website <a href="https://m.iaabc.org/join/new/" target="_blank">here</a>.</span><br />
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</span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>4. Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorists (DACVBs)</b></span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">An individual who holds this title is a licensed veterinarian who has completed a residency or training program in the discipline of veterinary behavioral medicine after they have completed their studies to become a licensed veterinarian. As part of this program they have studied topics including: sociobiology, psychology of learning, behavioral genetics, behavioral physiology, </span><br />
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">psychopharmacology, ethology and behavioral endocrinology. In other words, they have to go through a lot of schooling to earn this title!</span><br />
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</span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Veterinary Behaviorists (VBs) have the medical and behavioral knowledge to evaluate cases to determine if there is a medical component to explain an animal's behavior. VBs work with individual pet owners, other animal professionals, and facilities that care for animals in order to manage behavior problems and improve the well-being of animals. They evaluate and layout treatment plans for behavior modification and choose which medication would be best suited to help the specific animal in order to help with the behavior modification treatment plan they have designed.</span><br />
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</span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">All standards and procedures of Veterinary Behaviorists are approved by the <a href="https://www.dacvb.org/page/FAQ" target="_blank">American Board of Veterinary Specialties</a> (ABVS) which is an organization within the <a href="https://www.avma.org/" target="_blank">American Veterinary Medical Association</a> (AVMA). Professional conduct standards are set by both the AVMA and the ABVS, as are requirements for training programs. Specialists in veterinary behavioral medicine are also held accountable to local and state laws of veterinary practice.</span><br />
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</b></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>5. </b></span><b style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (ACAABs) & </b><b style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (CAABs)</b><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">An individual who has one of these titles must obtain it through the <a href="https://www.animalbehaviorsociety.org/web/index.php" target="_blank">Animal Behavior Society</a>. This is the leading professional organization in North America for the study of animal behavior. </span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">These individuals have an educational background where they have earned a Bachelor of Arts and/or a Bachelor of Science degree in either biology or psychology and then gone on to earn a postgraduate doctoral degree (PhD) in Animal Behavior. </span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">These animal professionals may work in various professional fields that may or may not pertain to dog or companion animal training. They are the most highly educated professionals in this list, as their education goes far beyond dogs and training. Some fields they may be in may include: psychology, biology, zoology and/or animal science. Some Animal Behaviorists may also be licensed veterinarians who have had additional training in applied animal behavior outside of their veterinary studies and coursework.</span><br />
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</span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">It should be noted that these individuals are versed in animal behavior that includes a large variety of animals including companion animals as well as exotic animals and wildlife. Some Animal Behaviorists do have dedicated practices/businesses that are targeted to help companion animals with behavior challenges beyond the scope of some trainers. However, some are not equipped to work with dog owners and their dog's behavior challenges. So you'll want to "interview" one of these professionals to determine their scope of expertise and ability to help dog owners.</span><br />
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</span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">The requirements to become either an Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist are quite rigorous. You may learn more about these requirements and the qualifications of these individuals on the <a href="https://www.animalbehaviorsociety.org/web/applied-behavior-caab-application.php" target="_blank">Animal Behavior Society's website</a>. </span><br />
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>DOG TRAINER, BEHAVIOR CONSULTANT OR BEHAVIORIST?</b> </span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">So, how do you know which one is right for your situation?</span><br />
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</span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Knowing which of these professionals is best for your dog and your goals is equally as confusing! How does one know?! </span><br />
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</span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">If you have a puppy or dog that you just want to learn a few manners and skills a qualified trainer would be sufficient for this. A trainer should at least have continuing education on their schedule throughout the year in some way –– ask what they are doing to further their skills and education on an on-going basis. They should at least be a member of an educational organization for trainers (see last paragraph in #1 above) if they aren't certified or going through a training academy of some type. It is preferred that they have completed an academy or program with some type of certification at the very least. Again, if they aren't certified they should be able to provide you with their on-going continuing education and what they are doing to keep up with their training skills.</span><br />
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</span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">If your dog exhibits aggression, anxiety and/or fear-based behaviors it would be best to find a qualified Behavior Consultant or Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist. Although it should be noted that some certified trainers can and do work with these types of cases and can do so successfully, you'd just need to know what questions to ask when hiring one. </span><br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PetBHTrtGdE/SYMpquHW6vI/AAAAAAAADNU/AFMBx6xTtD84YiGFKd-TPRKfDPuF0-gdgCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/thealphapac.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="240" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PetBHTrtGdE/SYMpquHW6vI/AAAAAAAADNU/AFMBx6xTtD84YiGFKd-TPRKfDPuF0-gdgCPcBGAYYCw/s200/thealphapac.jpeg" width="160" /></a><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br />
</span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">You would need a Veterinary Behaviorist if medication would be warranted to help in your dog's situation. A qualified trainer, Behavior Consultant and/or Applied Animal Behaviorist would be able to tell you if they feel that you need to seek the advice of a Veterinary Behaviorist (VB). The VB would work together with your trainer, applied behaviorist and/or consultant for the best outcome for your dog. </span><br />
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</span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>WHAT TO LOOK FOR & WHAT TO AVOID</b></span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>You want to always find a professional that adheres to current science-based training and doesn't follow training methods that are out-dated. </b>This includes a trainer that's training methods do not rely on the use of punishments when trying to change behavior or the old-school ideals of pack theory and dominance-based training. </span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><i>(You can read more about dominance and how it's been wildly misconstrued and misinterpreted <a href="https://www.4pawsuniversity.com/post/2017/05/15/seriously-its-not-dominance" target="_blank">here</a>.)</i></span><br />
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</i></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Ask the professional that you are interviewing the following:</b></span><br />
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<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>What are your qualifications and where did you get your education from? </b><br /><i>(You're looking for the qualifications & info that I provided in the above information, i.e., uses science-based methods & not outdated training or punishments to change behavior.)</i></span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>How long have you trained dogs? How long have you trained humans to train their dogs?</b><br /><i>(Look for someone who has at least trained people & their dogs for a few years. This isn't a deal breaker & some green [new] trainers are good at this but it's going to depend on what your goals are or your dog's challenges encompass. For dogs with behavior needs find someone that's definitely been doing this for a minimum of 5 years, preferably longer. Ask them what their history & background is with your dog's specific behavior challenge.)</i></span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>What methods of training do you utilize? Do you use choke chains, prong collars or electronic collars in your training?</b> </span><i style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: medium;">(You're looking for someone that does <u>not</u> use these tools! Look for a professional that is based on relationship building & utilizing rewards & does not rely on aversive tools. When training tools are needed stick to those who don't use leash corrections & corrective collars & equipment.)</span></i></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>How do you handle it when a dog makes a mistake? What about when they do something right?</b><br /><i>(Look for someone that concentrates on teaching dogs what to do & how to make good choices vs corrections & telling the dog what not to do. Also look for professionals that are reward-based & not afraid to adequately reward a dog using food & toys & what motivates dogs. They should also be very happy to tell the dog when it does something correct, makes the correct choice & appropriately rewards it for doing so. No professional should sound hesitant to stick with or use rewards or bash the use of those that do use rewards.)</i></span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>What are your thoughts on dominance in dogs?</b><br /><i>(Stay away from professionals that follow the outdated dominance & pack theory with companion dogs. For more details on this read <a href="https://www.companionanimalpsychology.com/2017/02/dominance-training-deprives-dogs-of.html" target="_blank">here</a>.)</i></span></span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Do you have references I could speak with or email?</b><br /><i>(No professional should deny you speaking with current and/or past clients or even another professional in the field that could vouch for them. They should happily give you references.)</i></span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Can I come observe a class you teach?</b><br /><i>(Professionals should always allow you to watch them train by observing first. You may not be seeking out a group class, so private lessons are likely not going to allow this due to privacy issues, however a group class should always allow for observation before joining.)</i></span></li>
<li><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Do you offer guarantees?</b> <br /><i>(Stay away from those that do! Read more about the code of ethics for members of the APDT [Association of Professional Dog Trainers] that discusses why they cannot & do not offer guarantees in training <a href="https://positively.com/contributors/should-dog-trainers-offer-guarantees/" target="_blank">here</a>. These reasons are why any dog professional should not offer guarantees.)</i></span></li>
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Always remember that even with credentials and educational backgrounds there can be bad apples in every bunch. So, personal and professional referrals can go a long way for this reason. Use good judgment and some good gut instincts as well! Be thorough in your interview process. <b>Any professional worth their weight in gold will be glad to provide as much information as possible about their background as well as provide references when you ask. </b>A good professional will also know when to say "I'm not the right fit for you, please contact XYZ professional instead" and offer a referral to a more qualified professional for your needs.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Stacy Greer, CPDT-KA</span></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: 10pt;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior</span></span></div>
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><a href="http://sunshinedog.com/" style="font-size: 10pt; text-decoration-line: none;">sunshinedog.com</a><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span></span><br /><span style="font-size: 10pt;">servicing Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas</span></span></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-32841679327564863132019-06-14T16:13:00.001-05:002019-06-14T17:20:03.592-05:00He's good with kids.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1c1e21; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>DOG GOOD WITH KIDS!</b> –– Have you heard this said to you by others about their dog? Read it on an adoption site or at an adoption event? What does this actually mean anyway?</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1c1e21; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This is really a pretty arbitrary statement. As a professional who has turned more toward helping families with dogs after becoming a mother myself (3 kids –– girls ages 10, and twins that are 6) I now see things with dogs and kids in a different light.<b> After becoming a mother I'm more vigilant and aware of dog body language and stress signals. I'm also more aware of what kids should and should not do around, to, or with dogs.</b></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1c1e21; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">What I see is that most often "good with kids" means the dog hasn't actually done anything negative to a child, or that the dog is very tolerant with kids antics and behavior. This doesn't mean the dog should allow this behavior, just that for some reason it does. This is where the label comes, because the dog has a high tolerance level. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1c1e21; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On the other hand, <b>I've seen a dog labeled as "not good with kids" when the fact is that a child did something inappropriate to the dog, the dog reacted well within its rights</b> and therefore now the dog is labeled as "not good with kids". This really comes down to a matter of education on the human side of things for both adult and child (um, and likely rescue group or shelter!)</span></span></span><br />
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<b>A label of "good with kids" doesn't negate a parent's job of learning how to read dog body language, respect what that language is saying, their space and their tolerance levels. Also, the parents need to be in touch with someone who is able to appropriately able show their child(ren) what is appropriate dog-etiquette that includes the same things in child-friendly terms and interactions. </b>Finding a <a href="https://www.familypaws.com/member-directory/" target="_blank">Family Paws Parent Educator</a><span id="goog_1464537308"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_1464537309"></span> and/or <a href="http://www.thefamilydog.com/" target="_blank">The Family Dog</a> private trainer will be key here. <a href="https://www.familypaws.com/" target="_blank">Family Paws</a> is geared more towards expecting parents, newborns and babies up to toddler years while <a href="http://www.thefamilydog.com/" target="_blank">The Family Dog</a> focuses on child/dog/family interactions and training for kids ages 5 years and up. <b>Also, note I have many kid-dog resources on <a href="https://www.sunshinedog.com/resources" target="_blank">my website's free resources page</a>. </b></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1c1e21; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I find this statement, often seen on adoptable dog sites/ads, very misleading and without further education it could be dangerous. <b>A dog should not ever be disrespected by a child or adult just because the dog is tolerant and allows people to "do anything" to them.</b> This does not mean, if your dog allows your child to grab it quickly, climb on it, or other behaviors like this, that you should allow your child (or anyone else's) to do this. Would you do this to a dog as an adult? Would you allow a child to do this to you as a human –– grab your hair? Hit you? Pull your clothes? Climb all over you? Then why is it ok for us to allow kids to do this just because we have a dog that's not reacting when this happens?</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1c1e21; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Dogs are sentient beings and should be respected the same way you would respect another living thing, item of someone else's and national treasures!</b> You don't allow your kids to climb all over restaurant tables and up walls in public places, right? Then why should they be allowed do this to a dog? Just because a dog <i>allows and tolerates</i> this does not mean the dog is enjoying it, and more importantly that they will always tolerate it. </span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1c1e21; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Dogs, like humans, do have a breaking point and this is where most "he bit my son for no reason!" comments come into play. </b>Usually those "out of the blue" bites are not out of the blue at all. The dog had put up with a lot for a long time and finally had enough! ... or the dog had issues with personal space, the child got into the dog's personal space, the dog was uncomfortable, or something else happened that caused the dog to react negatively. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1c1e21; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>A dog that reacts negatively to being climbed on, grabbed by the face, pulled on or even hugged (most dogs do not like hugs, especially by children and strangers) are actually not labeled correctly. This should not deserve a label of "not good with kids". A more appropriate label would be "training mandatory by family dog trainer, inquire if interested in Fido to be part of your family!"</b>
Let's take this scenario: Every day after lunch you sit down, want to relax and have a little down time. I come over and sit on you. I tug your ears. I move around all over you. I try to lay in your lap. Maybe the first time you'll say "Um can you move, please?" I might then move. But what if this continued to happen every day? I'd likely be pretty accurate to assume by about the 3rd time this happened you'd either yell at me or push me off of you forcefully to give me the idea that it's really not ok with you. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;">Now let's do this scenario: Fido lies down comfortably on his bed in the afternoon and is relaxing. Little Susy comes over and sits on him, or lies on him or kisses him constantly. Fido might just get up and walk away the first time, or he may just lay there and do nothing, just hoping Little Susy will go away soon so he can finish his afternoon nap. Then the next day Little Susy does it again, then the next day and the next. Finally, one day Fido snaps at Little Susy when she gets her face too close to his. He's had enough. He wants to be left alone and Little Susy is just not respecting his space at all! </span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fao0AfW7V2w/XQQMLK9QB9I/AAAAAAABIzY/RK2WL5W_QjUuOiLwuHSmfAKnPzPWnkHlACLcBGAs/s1600/Sophie_reads_to_char.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fao0AfW7V2w/XQQMLK9QB9I/AAAAAAABIzY/RK2WL5W_QjUuOiLwuHSmfAKnPzPWnkHlACLcBGAs/s320/Sophie_reads_to_char.png" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-size: medium;">In the above scenarios the human one seems to make sense, right? But does the dog scenario make just as much sense? It should! Because Fido is a dog and cannot verbally tell Susy she's bothering him, after a while he'll use his voice (he could just bark loudly at her) and/or his teeth (snapping or biting) to communicate his dislike for Little Susy's antics.</span> </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>The problem isn't a dog that snaps at children. The problem is that we need to know <i>why</i> the dog chose to do this behavior. </b>Was the dog in the right? If we investigate the situation and find out that the child was not being respectful, then it's not a lost cause. The dog can, and likely will, be totally fine living with children. <b>The success in this scenario will happen when the family as a whole can get a professional to come in and teach them appropriate skills to live with their dog and understand his needs and behavior. </b></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><br /></b></span></span>
<span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;">Now, all this to say, there are in fact some dogs that are not good with children. They may react to kids for no reason or in such an aggressive manner that it isn't safe. So, this isn't to say that all dogs that snap at children will and can be ok with them. This is also why a professional must be consulted with when a family adopts any dog, regardless of the label the shelter or rescue has given it. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #1c1e21; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>I personally think all families who acquire a dog at any age should hire a professional that knows how to educate every member of the family on how to live peacefully with a dog! </b>Please do check out all the great, and free, resources on my <a href="https://www.sunshinedog.com/resources" target="_blank">Free Resources</a> page on my website for books, downloadable handouts and more. ... and if you have kids and a puppy or dog, don't wait, hire a professional today that can help!</span></span></span></span><br />
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<div style="background: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin: 0in;">
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<b><span style="font-family: "avenir black" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Stacy Greer, CPDT-KA</span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "avenir black" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "avenir black" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><a href="http://sunshinedog.com/" style="color: #4d469c; font-size: 10pt; text-decoration-line: none;">sunshinedog.com</a><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "avenir black" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">servicing Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas</span></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-68661430650395734612019-06-11T15:03:00.002-05:002019-06-11T15:57:47.695-05:00Priorities.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wz5zl88vvJA/XQAI-2qOmsI/AAAAAAABIyA/Nohx425oNl0I45OpDUTLNQl_fGIxP8rzACLcBGAs/s1600/62613390_10217114674412126_7056208320423526400_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="946" data-original-width="960" height="315" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wz5zl88vvJA/XQAI-2qOmsI/AAAAAAABIyA/Nohx425oNl0I45OpDUTLNQl_fGIxP8rzACLcBGAs/s320/62613390_10217114674412126_7056208320423526400_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Hello dedicated dog owners! I wanted to send this update for all my past, current and possible wanna-be clients. </b>I'm going to be taking fewer in-home training clients starting in July and wean down to only a select number as I'm able to do so. I'm not quitting or anything like that just not going to be working as much and at times I may take weeks off at a time.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I will no longer be boarding any dogs in my home for boarding or training. This will start immediately.</b> This one may be one of the hardest ones for me to give up because I know finding a good place to board your pets is hard and I also love doing this service for my clients. However, it's also a lot of work, especially when you are doing it from your home with your own dogs and family involved too!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I will be doing more online training!</b> I'm hoping to focus more on online training webinars and even online consultations and one-on-one training. So, please consider this as an option. If you have a case that would involve more than can be helped via online training I'll refer you to someone who can help you out with your specific situation.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Being a mom to young kids and being very involved in their extracurricular activities and such is making me realize I need to be with my kids more. They'll be out of the house before I know it and I want to be fully immersed with them while I can be! I currently head my 6 year-old twins' Girl Scout troop and that's pretty time-consuming ... but I really, really love doing it! <b>So, I'm going to be doing more Girl Scout stuff and other things with my kids and hubby.</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WzJ4GDkLuNo/XQAKeY3nfwI/AAAAAAABIyM/sJBaIfVlzLYN8_UoSvEmHPmE87ZLVt-ngCLcBGAs/s1600/online-training-modules.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="315" data-original-width="760" height="132" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WzJ4GDkLuNo/XQAKeY3nfwI/AAAAAAABIyM/sJBaIfVlzLYN8_UoSvEmHPmE87ZLVt-ngCLcBGAs/s320/online-training-modules.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;">Thank you so much for understanding and please feel free to contact me if you really need some in-home services. As I said, I'm not quitting, just cutting back. I will not leave anyone stranded or left behind!</span><br />
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<b>Please do follow my <a href="https://www.facebook.com/sunshinedogtrainingandbehavior/" target="_blank">Facebook page</a> for online training updates and upcoming webinars, or contact me <a href="mailto:stacy@sunshinedog.com" target="_blank">via email</a> to set up some online training. </b>I will be updating <a href="https://www.sunshinedog.com/" target="_blank">my website</a> soon to reflect all these changes and ways to sign up for new services that I'll be offering. So stay tuned for that.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "avenir black" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Stacy Greer, CPDT-KA</span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "avenir black" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "avenir black" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><a href="http://sunshinedog.com/" style="color: #4d469c; font-size: 10pt; text-decoration-line: none;">sunshinedog.com</a><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "avenir black" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">servicing Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas</span></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-44257245523187735732019-05-31T18:06:00.003-05:002019-05-31T18:08:08.305-05:00Dogs & Kids: Assume they aren't listening ...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--GzXTWrZnlk/XPGxNCR_19I/AAAAAAABIgw/gzilJkAkNp8zJ1zoeU5rRHjddrCWUCHAACLcBGAs/s1600/4AEAB456-6A75-49F0-A8E4-83D4109D3906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--GzXTWrZnlk/XPGxNCR_19I/AAAAAAABIgw/gzilJkAkNp8zJ1zoeU5rRHjddrCWUCHAACLcBGAs/s200/4AEAB456-6A75-49F0-A8E4-83D4109D3906.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Assume the worst. Assume they know nothing. Assume they do not absorb anything. ... I'm of course talking about the kids! </b>I had a recent picture I posted on my Facebook timeline of my refrigerator which adorns many things but one of them is a set of kid and dog posters. I leave these up, they are laminated and stay there at all times. I do this because kids should never be given as much credit as "oh they know they shouldn't do that ... or they know they should do this ..."</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>When you work with kids and dogs you need to assume that your child needs to be reminded, molded and trained daily just like your dog does.</b> Just because you showed your child, or told them, once that pulling Fido's tail isn't nice doesn't mean they will think about this each and every time they come near a dog.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">It's really important that kids are reminded often and given opportunities to practice what they have been previously taught. I have 3 kids –– a 10 year old and a set of 6 year old twins. The 10 year old is definitely getting better about having to be reminded and having to practice as much education on dog behavior and body language than my 6 year olds. However, that's because I've been doing this with her for a long time. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">I'm a Certified Dog Trainer, a licensed Family Paws Parent Educator and a trainer with The Family dog. However, this doesn't exempt me from teaching and training my kids all the time on dog behavior and body language. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R1kN2QqHpJ8/XPGyL3QEWyI/AAAAAAABIg4/3lF_oal2IkArfN4zgGL0G3kaltsfmyL4ACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2019-05-31%2Bat%2B6.00.34%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="564" data-original-width="381" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R1kN2QqHpJ8/XPGyL3QEWyI/AAAAAAABIg4/3lF_oal2IkArfN4zgGL0G3kaltsfmyL4ACLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2019-05-31%2Bat%2B6.00.34%2BPM.png" width="216" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/d84d47_581a8af001774e6087b90f26ebf63113.pdf" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: small;">Download on my website</span></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Each dog we encounter is a learning opportunity. </b>I will stop and say "what does that dog seem to be feeling?" "What body language can you identify?" "Do you think he wants to be approached or left alone?" It's so important that parents understand that dogs are sentient beings and can change from one minute to the next just like children ... and adults! This means we need to always be aware of what a dog is "saying" or trying to "say" with its body language and actions. This is how we make Dog Aware Generations –– generations of kids that learn how to always read a dog and stop and think before acting. This will almost always ensure safety and a pleasurable experience for both dog and child. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>So be sure you are practicing educating your children on canine body language and what their actions may mean. But don't stop at one lesson.</b> Use dogs you see or are around as learning opportunities, use your own dog as a learning tool. Go over pictures of dogs and their body language. <b>Do this as often as you can. Learning is on-going!</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">I have several r<a href="https://www.sunshinedog.com/resources" target="_blank">esources on my website</a> for kid and dog education and training. One of my favorites is the poster above for kids that is from <a href="http://stopthe77.com/">stopthe77.com</a> and <a href="https://www.thefamilydog.com/" target="_blank">The Family Dog</a>.</span></div>
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<div style="background: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin: 0in;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-family: "avenir black" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Stacy Greer, CPDT-KA</span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "avenir black" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "avenir black" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><a href="http://sunshinedog.com/" style="color: #4d469c; font-size: 10pt; text-decoration-line: none;">sunshinedog.com</a><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "avenir black" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">servicing Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas</span></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-41954810352769021692019-05-13T12:14:00.005-05:002021-12-27T11:45:40.294-06:00I'm a professional dog trainer & I don't walk my dogs.<div align="center" class="separator" style="font-family: Arial, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
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<div style="font-family: Arial, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif">I’ve wanted to say this out loud for so long, so I’ll say it again … <b>I don’t walk my dogs and I’m a professional dog trainer. </b>Oh sure I have walked my dogs –– gone on hikes, in public places, at events, at [training] classes … but regular, daily exercise such as walks down my street –– nope. My dogs don’t get those types of walks. </span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face="Arial, sans-serif">This blog post may compliment my blog post from quite a while back titled “<a href="https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2017/04/stop-walking-your-dog.html" style="color: #954f72;">Stop walking your dog.</a>” If you’ve not read that you should read it when you have a moment, it’s lengthy but full of lots of great information and resources.</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face="Arial, sans-serif">So, back to the topic of this post—My dogs and their lack of getting daily walks. Yeah. I know I must be a lazy dog owner right? … or maybe just a terrible dog owner—gasp! My dogs must be sad and fat, right? Actually, my dogs are quite the opposite of either of those. In the past 15 years I’ve had 5 personal dogs –– a Great Dane, a Labrador Retriever, a Jack Russell Terrier, an Australian Shepherd and a Beagle. None of them receive(d) regular daily walks. (I currently have the Aussie and the Beagle as the others have passed.)</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face="Arial, sans-serif">Each of my dogs has (had) a fulfilled life because they are (were) mentally engaged far more than the average dog. They have (had) a lovely balance of, I’d say about 90% mental exercise and 10% physical exercise. Well, my Great Dane had only about 1% physical exercise, his choice completely of course! That guy adorned a couch far better than any throw blanket ever could! Alas, I digress . . .</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span face="Arial, sans-serif">Let's get something straight first </span></b><span face="Arial, sans-serif">—<b> exercising your dog is not wrong and it is definitely beneficial to your dog.</b> Hey, every living creature needs to get physically active in some way, including humans, right?! So, <b>I'm not advocating for people to never exercise their dogs.</b> I'm simply stating that exercise isn't the "fix" that so many dog owners have been led to believe it is. This includes behavior problems as well as weight problems. Yup. That's a whole other topic in itself (weight problems in healthy dogs). So, I'll save that for a different blog post.</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span face="Arial, sans-serif">The issue with most dogs today is that they are not mentally stimulated properly and/or enough.</span></b><span face="Arial, sans-serif"> Yet, is has been drilled into dog owners’ heads that physical exercise will fix all the things! In fact, I find this to be such a myth it’s becoming a problem in the sense that people are trying to exercise their dogs to fix behavior issues and missing the boat completely. Of course, this isn’t by a fault of the owner. I get it. <b>It’s been so ingrained in people’s minds that “an exercised dog is a tired dog and a tired dog is a good dog” that dog owners are attempting to achieve this, mostly with minimal success.</b></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="font-size: 12pt;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif">What I see most of today in the dogs I work with are stressed dogs, dogs riddled with anxiety, dogs with lack of boundaries and training, and dogs not set up to have their brains enriched in the way that they should.</span></b><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 12pt;"> Please don't read this as me stating that dogs aren't being cared for properly. I'm simply stating what I see a lot of. Most, if not all of it, is by no fault of the dog's owner. People don't know what they don't know –– this is why I write this blog!</span></div>
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<span face="Arial, sans-serif"><br />I see people who want to put forth all the time and energy to exercise their dogs. So much so that they almost have a resistance to setting up enrichment and would rather get out and walk or run their dogs. For some I know that it's the dog owner who sees it as a way for them to get out and exercise, and that's totally fine. It really is. <b>Again, there is nothing wrong with exercising your dog or yourself! Obviously exercise is in fact important.</b></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face="Arial, sans-serif"><br /><b>But what I often see are humans who are walking their dogs because they think if they don't they are a bad dog owner, </b>or the dog won't be fulfilled, or the dog's behavior issues will be worse or, or, or ... The guilt of not walking their dog forces them to do it. I<b> see a lot of dog owners who would quite honestly rather <i>not</i> walk their dog. So if that's you, then this is directed at you. You don't have to do it. </b></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><b>Let's also discuss dogs that do worse when walked. Yup those are out there too! </b>There are dogs who stress more on walks than lying at home in their comfy bed. Some dogs are anxious or nervous or reactive to all the things. These dogs do not do well on walks and walks are not benefitting them in any way. They are actually likely increasing the stress and anxiety and making things far worse. These dogs do not need walks. <i>(Note: You should hire a trainer to help if your dog has any of these issues, they deserve to live without stress or anxiety, even if it's just "a little bit".)</i></span></div>
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<span face="Arial, sans-serif"><br />If you find solace in it or feel like it's something you really have to do <i><u>and</u></i> you have a dog suited for walking, by all means do it! Also, I'm not stating you <i>shouldn't</i> walk your dog ever. </span></div>
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<span face="Arial, sans-serif"><br /><b>Guess what? You don't <i>have</i> to walk your dog and some dogs will actually appreciate not going on a walk.</b> You can stop walking your dog if it’s stressing you out and/or if it’s stressing your dog out. Stop if it’s not helping the issues you thought it would help. Stop if you dread it. Just stop if you just don’t feel like doing it that day, or every day. Just don’t. And don't feel guilty about it. It's going to be alright! You can make up for it in so many other ways. I promise!</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><br />1. Train your dog</span></b><span face="Arial, sans-serif"> in some capacity. Maintain the training. Do it regularly, not just one class here or there, or an in-home program and then nothing after that. <b style="background-color: white;">A trained dog is a good dog, even better than a tired dog ... because a trained dog <i>is</i> a tired dog!</b></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><br />2. Take your dog camping or hiking </span></b><span face="Arial, sans-serif">as you see fit (if it suits you, your dog's temperament, and/or your schedule). I know that hiking is exercise but it's not a daily walk in your 'hood. This is actually a great form of enrichment for dogs that would be suited for this. <i>(Note that not all dogs are well-suited for camping, also hiking should follow rules & other things. Good info for hiking with your dog <a href="https://trailandsummit.com/how-do-i-prepare-my-dog-for-hiking/" target="_blank">here</a>.)</i></span></div>
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<b><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><br />3. Play with your dog.</span></b><span face="Arial, sans-serif"> Tug? Ball? Fetch? Play with your dog is great, even better if you incorporate some impulse control exercises (drop, wait, go get it, sit, etc.) in with the play.</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><br />4. Provide mental enrichment & stimulation</span></b><span face="Arial, sans-serif"> (see my <a href="http://bit.ly/canineenrichment" style="color: #954f72;" target="_blank">blog post</a> on this) This is your golden goose right here, and there are soooo many ways you can enrich your dog. My <a href="http://bit.ly/canineenrichment" style="color: #954f72;" target="_blank">blog post</a> explains many different ways to do this.</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><br />5. Work on relaxation exercises.</span></b><span face="Arial, sans-serif"> Teach your dog to chill. (Great read on this <a href="https://www.clickertraining.com/node/3493" style="color: #954f72;" target="_blank">here</a>.) Many dogs that are amped up or energetic need more downtime not more exercise. I actually go into great detail in another <a href="http://bit.ly/stopwalking" style="color: #954f72;" target="_blank">blog post</a> I wrote on this. You can read it <a href="http://bit.ly/stopwalking" style="color: #954f72;" target="_blank">here</a>.</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face="Arial, sans-serif"><br /><b>6. Let your dog sleep.</b> Most dogs don't get enough sleep, just like humans! Did you know that dogs should sleep 16-20 hours a day, depending on age?! Interesting read on sleep in dogs <a href="https://blogs.scientificamerican.com/dog-spies/memory-wins-when-dogs-sleep/" style="color: #954f72;" target="_blank">here</a>.</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face="Arial, sans-serif"><br /><b>So, see - you're not a bad owner if you don't walk your dog regularly.</b> There are tons of ways to meet your dog's needs. But, again, if you do enjoy walking daily or weekly with your dog by all means do that. Just note that <b>adding in some of the above things to your dog's exercise routine will have increasingly great outcomes for your dog's mental and behavioral health!</b></span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><b>Need help with some of the suggestions in this blog? </b>Hire a professional to guide you in training and any other aspect of these things! Read my blog <a href="https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2020/04/what-kind-of-dog-pro-do-i-need.html" target="_blank">here</a> on how to find the properly qualified professional for you and your dog!</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>This blog post was updated on December 27, 2021.</i></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjduxycSG0eG05N0_1g4tJukBXCTZ9cAV1T8LIJNSaBcFx70EwgfhqnMSOH5tu0xFrfuT_Ilwh5vBSDAIbezHTc3b1fMN5Z7r4ng3YfO40TUJPbMfUu1eQCKXct9BQDbhpqKnBnaggng67LnG7svGqouRPR2mC9q8m3k2LMuLlh73hkUuh_5JprYDo1=s1563" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1563" data-original-width="1563" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjduxycSG0eG05N0_1g4tJukBXCTZ9cAV1T8LIJNSaBcFx70EwgfhqnMSOH5tu0xFrfuT_Ilwh5vBSDAIbezHTc3b1fMN5Z7r4ng3YfO40TUJPbMfUu1eQCKXct9BQDbhpqKnBnaggng67LnG7svGqouRPR2mC9q8m3k2LMuLlh73hkUuh_5JprYDo1=s320" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div>
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<b style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="background: white; font-size: 10pt;">Stacy Greer, CPDT-KA</span></b><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-90572436402443725742019-04-25T11:01:00.000-05:002019-04-27T15:50:06.069-05:00She'll get used to it ... <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Have you ever had a dog that was a bit scared of something and you thought perhaps if she just "gets used to it" she'll figure out it's ok?</b> I see a lot of the mindset that if a dog is scared (or just unsure) of something that all they need is more exposure to that something in order to "get used to it". Unfortunately it doesn't work like that.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Let me use the example of a dog not too keen on riding in the car. Maybe it's not even crippling fear but just a bit of stress in the car. So, you think, I'll just take her in the car more so she'll get used to it. That will get my dog to understand that the car isn't so bad, right? I mean nothing bad happens in the car. So she'll just get used to it if I take her in the car all the time, right? Well, actually this won't get her used to the car.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is the thing with stress and/or fear –– it doesn't just go away on its own or over time by forcing the dog to be in the situations and/or around the things that scare them or make them nervous. <b>There is actually a term in psychology for this "technique"–– it's called flooding.</b> You will find some dog trainers that use flooding as a training tool, and they will swear that "it works". Here is why some dogs appear to be getting past their fear or stress –– flooding causes dogs to shut down or present what is called "learned helplessness". This means the dog realizes it has no other choice but to just sit through the situation as it cannot escape so it just does nothing. However, while doing nothing they are mentally panicking, some a lot some just enough to make it uncomfortable. Either way, they are not coping, and they are definitely not "getting used to it". They are praying for the moment they can get away or go back to a place that's safe for them. They are also not moving past their previous viewpoint on the very thing you were attempting to get them "used to".</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Let me try to put this in perspective. Let's say you are afraid of spiders and I put you in a room full of spiders. The spiders are in a huge enclosed tank, at the other end of the room. They cannot get to you. But you cannot leave. You have to sit there for an hour and try to just "see" that it's not so bad, I mean after all they are in a tank and across the room ––right?! However, likely you will begin to try coping mechanisms. This is a physiological response that the body does. This is whether you are a human or an animal. You go into survival mode. You'll probably be staring intently at that tank full of spiders. You probably will start talking to yourself, trying to calm yourself –– <i>"see, they can't get to you, see they aren't so bad."</i> You may start breathing techniques. You will probably talk to yourself some more. You will probably look over at the tank every 2 seconds. You will probably start to possibly think of worst case scenarios. <i>What if they get out? What if the lid isn't on tight enough? What if someone forgets about you?</i> . . . You will be hyper-focused on the spiders. You will be counting down until you can get the heck out of there. But what you <i>won't</i> do is walk out of the room and say "well that was great, now I'm not afraid of spiders! Thanks for that awesome session of flooding!"</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I recall, probably 10 years ago, I was teaching a group class and a client in the class asked about how to help her dog "get used to people" because she's shy and timid around new people. One client that was in the class thought she'd give her two cents and she stated, "we just took ours on the Katy Trail all the time and she finally got used to people." For those not local, the Katy Trail is a very, very, <i>very</i> busy jogging and walking path that goes around a busy part of the huge city of Dallas. It has joggers, bikers, roller bladers, skaters, strollers and tons of dogs! It's seriously packed with people and dogs. It's too much for most dogs let alone a dog afraid of people! What likely happened to the client's dog that says "she finally got used to people" was that she continued to take her dog on the trail and the dog just tolerated it because it had no other choice. When a dog is in a state of learned helplessness they look compliant because they do nothing. It could appear to the untrained eye to be "obedient" (ugh I hate that word!) It looks like blind obedience but it's just a dog choosing to do nothing because it has zero options. This would apply here because on the trail all dogs are on a leash. A dog on a leash that's forced into a situation where it's not comfortable isn't going to do much of anything as it has no choices.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">On another side of that some people could argue, "so what's wrong with the dog just getting by and doing nothing?" Why is this "learned helplessness" so bad? Sounds like they don't do anything bad so, meh. Why not?! But here is the thing, mentally your dog isn't ok. They haven't learned to be ok, they've learned that they have no choice. I don't know about you but I like to have a dog that is actually ok with the thing or situation that makes them nervous, uneasy or anxious. I don't want to just put a band-aid on my wound if it's never going heal. Why can't I do something to make the wound disappear completely?!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>So how does one know if a dog is exhibiting learned helplessness, being shut down, or </b><b>truly "used to" something?</b> Great question! A dog that is not truly ok in a situation will show signs of stress. Now, the kicker here is that you gotta be a real <a href="https://www.dogdecoder.com/" target="_blank">Dog Decoder</a> (by they way that's actually a dog body language app, go download that now, <a href="https://www.dogdecoder.com/" target="_blank">here</a>!) with body language. This is where dogs will often show super subtle signs of stress so you'll need to be a great detective here. Things such as whale eye, licking their lips, tail tucked (or lowered heavily), head averted, eyes averted away, paw lift, eyes blinking, eyes squinting, panting out of context, heavy shedding, moist paw pads and even just sitting there staring and frozen (with a few of these others signals likely to be occuring at the same time.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Now, remember reading stress signals takes you looking at the whole dog and really understanding what you're looking at.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Dogs that are "used to" or ok with something will show loose body, ears, eyes, mid-line tail wagging that's loose, often eliciting interactions and exploring things on their own without showing signs of fear or uncertainty. They will not just sit frozen. They will also listen to you when you ask for something most likely while the unsure dog –– or flooded dog –– will often seem to ignore you when you ask something of it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Here is the thing with science and psychology –– you can train a dog to be comfortable with things and situations <i>by choice.</i></b> You can do it the right way. You can do it so that with the proper training your dog will actually like going on that car ride that previously made her nervous. You can teach your dog that previously thought men were scary that they aren't so bad, and actually could even be good! Your dog will make their own choices and even moreover –– your dog will be confident as a dog and mentally balanced. That's the dog I want! How about you?</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>If you have a dog with any kind of fear, anxiety, stress or phobia please contact a positive-based trainer that understands how to properly use classical, counter conditioning and desensitization to modify behavior.</b> You also need to have any anxious dog visit a licensed veterinarian that is well educated in behavioral medicine before implementing a training plan. Some dogs do require medication to aide in the process. This is on a case by case basis but no one should brush off the power of medicine when owning a fearful and/or anxious dog.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Need help finding a qualified professional near you? Hit me up in the comments!</span><br />
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<b>Stacy Greer, CPDT-KA</b></div>
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<a href="http://sunshinedog.com/">sunshinedog.com</a></div>
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servicing Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas & surrounding cities</div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-79117720057740797022019-02-05T14:44:00.002-06:002022-03-02T10:28:54.893-06:00Mental Stimulation & Enrichment: What is it anyway & why?!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">I know my clients hear me talk about this all the time. I also suggest it as a solution to many doggie behavior complaints — because it often is a solution, if not something that would help dramatically! </span><br />
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</span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">However, I don't see it utilized as much as it should be. Actually, <b>I find it interesting how many people would rather take a one hour walk/run with their dog vs 15 minutes to prepare an enrichment toy or food puzzle for said dog.</b></span><br />
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</span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">I think the issue is that so many people have had it drilled into their heads that exercise is the answer to a dog's misbehavior, or that if they were exercised more their behavior would improve. This is rarely true. This is a whole other topic. I don't mean you shouldn't exercise your dog but it's not going to solve your dog's issues in the way that you likely have been told it will. <i>(I wrote a blog post on this titled, "<a href="https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2017/04/stop-walking-your-dog.html" target="_blank">Stop Walking Your Dog</a>" you may want to read for details on that.)</i></span><br />
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</span> <b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">USE FOOD PUZZLES FOR MEALS NOT A TREAT</span></b><br />
</span><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z1hqm2aaTQg/XCKFjdPzXCI/AAAAAAABFTQ/PzIpW924G2QRE-K7Vk4FMdIYVgOcNh7BQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-12-25%2Bat%2B1.30.58%2BPM.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="396" data-original-width="297" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z1hqm2aaTQg/XCKFjdPzXCI/AAAAAAABFTQ/PzIpW924G2QRE-K7Vk4FMdIYVgOcNh7BQCLcBGAs/s200/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-12-25%2Bat%2B1.30.58%2BPM.png" width="150" /></span></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">The #1 thing I hear from clients is this "Oh yeah I stuffed that thing [pointing to their dog's KONG] and he wasn't all that interested." I hear something along those lines as well as clients stating their dog wasn't even remotely interested in the KONG. Likely this is due to it not being used in the most beneficial way. Read on to learn more . . .</span><br />
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</span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Most dogs know that their dog food will be provided in a bowl and they will have easy access to it, read: they can eat it easily and quickly out of the bowl. If you free-feed your dog (food is available at all times, not picked up and fed only at set times) this will be even more obvious because your free-fed dog often won't work for anything. They have food available at all times why would they do something that takes work to get food? On the other hand, if a dog has to work to get his meal he is going to do it or he knows that he won't be getting that meal!</span><br />
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</span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">So, I encourage dog owners to provide their dog's meal out of a food puzzle, not an extra thing full of treats the dog <i>might</i> [or might not!] enjoy. I recommend you feed your dog's entire ration of at least one meal per day out of a food puzzle so that she has to work to get it!</span></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Food puzzles also can make feeding fun and some dogs become more encouraged to eat when given a fun way to do it. For dogs that eat too quickly food puzzles are a great way to force them to eat a bit slower as well as get some mental stimulation out of it.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">If you want some examples of food puzzles and details on using them please download my handout <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/heplc2iu2d09sv5/Dog%20Puzzles%20%26%20Enrichment%20%282021%29.pdf?dl=0" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span><b>SO WHY DOES MY DOG NEED ENRICHMENT?</b><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Enrichment doesn't just benefit hyper, over-aroused, active and busy dogs — it benefits all dogs! Dogs need enrichment because their brains need to work as much as, if not more than, their legs! <b>Enrichment for dogs has been known to lower stress, encourage them to learn more efficiently, and increases problem solving skills which leads to a more emotionally balanced dog.</b> In fact, mental enrichment is what will make your dog more relaxed and manageable, not 5 miles of jogging around the lake (unless you're allowing your dog to stop and sniff <i>a lot</i> during this run!) </span><br />
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</span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Physical exercise is also important to your dogs, as it is to all living creatures (hey, humans too!). However, what most people don't realize is that dogs suffer more from lack of mental stimulation than they do from physical stimulation. <b>Most people meet, if not exceed, their dog's physical stimulation needs but do not realize that this is not the need that needs to be met the most.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Dogs actually sleep anywhere from 16-20 hours a day, by nature (puppies and elderly dogs need more sleep than middle aged dogs). If your dog doesn't get enough sleep it's a lot like a child with not enough sleep — if you're a parent then you know what this looks like – it's not fun! As with children, dogs will usually show lack of sleep by acting out or showing behaviors that we definitely don't approve of. While a dog acting out doesn't <i>always</i> equate to a dog not getting enough sleep (it could be for a variety of reasons), I'm saying that a dog without enough sleep will definitely show some behaviors that are undesirable. Exercising to the point of exhaustion or not having your dog sleep enough will cause more problems than give the dog a reason to nap.</span><br />
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</span></b> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>Dogs need to use their brains, legs and their comfy beds in order to be mentally and emotionally balanced –– and exhausted.</b> More sleep actually makes for a calmer dog. So be sure your dog gets a very balanced day of sleep, exercise, enrichment and more sleep.</span><br />
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</span> <b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">WHAT EXACTLY IS ENRICHMENT & MENTAL STIMULATION?</span></b><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #363636;">One standard definition of enrichment is:<b> <i>"Additions to an animal's environment with which the animal voluntarily interacts and, as a result, experiences improved physical and/or psychological health."</i></b></span><br />
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</span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">There are a lot of things that involve enrichment to fulfill your dog's mental stimulation needs everyday. They can range from somewhat simple to more complex. You should provide a variety of these to keep your dog's needs met. Don't always opt for the easy ones and don't always opt for the more challenging ones. If you stick to one or the other your dog may become frustrated due to boredom if too simple or due to not being able to solve the more difficult challenges. So be sure to stay on a sliding scale of difficulty.</span><br />
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</span> <b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Enrichment can be divided into six categories:</span></b><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b style="background-color: white;">1. Sensory - </b><span style="background-color: white;">This includes anything that stimulates your dog's senses. Sight, sound, taste, smell, and touch.</span></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br style="background-color: white;" /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b style="background-color: white;">2. Feeding - </b><span style="background-color: white;">By employing the power of your dog's nose and brain, you can encourage your dog to use their natural hunting and foraging skills at meal time.</span></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br style="background-color: white;" /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b style="background-color: white;">3. Toys and Puzzles - </b><span style="background-color: white;">These encourage your dog to manipulate them for a reward. The reward is usually food or treats, but could also include plush, rubber, rope, and fetch toys.</span></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br style="background-color: white;" /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b style="background-color: white;">4. Environmental - </b><span style="background-color: white;">Adding new things to your dog's life can sometimes increase their physical activity and make things more interesting. Try adding a mirror to a room in your house, build a ramp in the backyard, or go for a hike in a new place.</span></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br style="background-color: white;" /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b style="background-color: white;">5. Social - </b><span style="background-color: white;">Interaction with other people and other dogs builds self confidence and trust. Visiting the pet store, the dog park, or even a friend's house <i>while practicing</i> training and skills can help keep your dog well-rounded.</span></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br style="background-color: white;" /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b style="background-color: white;">6. Training - </b><span style="background-color: white;">Training can help strengthen the bond you have with your dog. It helps to build trust plus your dog will learn basic and important listening skills.</span></span><br />
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</span> <b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">HERE IS A LIST OF GREAT ENRICHMENT IDEAS:</span></b><br />
</span><ul><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vEQrfFwylMo/XCBzLn9DSQI/AAAAAAABFSY/-VUxOIw_-copSr-5yrxT3sqh3BJ7R8d1wCEwYBhgL/s1600/dog_sniffing_in_grass.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="338" data-original-width="600" height="112" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vEQrfFwylMo/XCBzLn9DSQI/AAAAAAABFSY/-VUxOIw_-copSr-5yrxT3sqh3BJ7R8d1wCEwYBhgL/s200/dog_sniffing_in_grass.jpg" width="200" /></span></a>
<li><span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>The dog's sniffer!</b> I think that the absolute best type of mental enrichment is the type that involves your dog utilizing his nose to find food — I mean real sniffing and searching! I cannot stress how much this will wear your dog out. This type of enrichment far exceeds any type of physical exercise you could provide for your dog — by leaps and bounds.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ta-SlOwLr5E/XCBzL8ZpvNI/AAAAAAABFSc/xw0TeN1bUP4iEjs2ll0lv_O5EM09zo0rQCEwYBhgL/s1600/dog_using_snuffle_mat.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; font-family: avenir; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="570" height="140" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ta-SlOwLr5E/XCBzL8ZpvNI/AAAAAAABFSc/xw0TeN1bUP4iEjs2ll0lv_O5EM09zo0rQCEwYBhgL/s200/dog_using_snuffle_mat.jpg" width="200" /></span></a>Allow your dog to forage, scavenge and find her food. You can do this by just simply </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">tossing your dog's ration of kibble out into a yard or field (when dog is on a long line) and let them sniff until they find it. If you live where you don't have a fenced in area to allow this (or don't want to go out to a field), then <b>you can utilize a snuffle mat –– it's truly my favorite thing for this!</b> Heck, use the snuffle mat everyday! Here is a <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/660446607/large-premium-quality-snuffle-mat-18-x?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=large+snuffle+mat&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&organic_search_click=1&pro=1&frs=1" target="_blank">snuffle mat</a> (see pic & <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/660446607/large-premium-quality-snuffle-mat-18-x?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=large+snuffle+mat&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&organic_search_click=1&pro=1&frs=1" target="_blank">click to buy</a>) in case you're thinking – what is a snuffle mat?<br />
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<li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Fun with surfaces!</b> Offer a variety of surfaces and textures for your dog to explore, train on and discover. This is especially beneficial to puppies from the time they start </span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CBVvWikmYrk/XFh6gf8UfII/AAAAAAABF7s/NSyStO6crPMWYlIZZJIhWKqgV5zgc0RngCEwYBhgL/s1600/dog_on_chopped_logs.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="112" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CBVvWikmYrk/XFh6gf8UfII/AAAAAAABF7s/NSyStO6crPMWYlIZZJIhWKqgV5zgc0RngCEwYBhgL/s200/dog_on_chopped_logs.JPG" width="200" /></span></a></div>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">walking to the time they are around 14-18 weeks of age. This helps puppies not be afraid of different obstacles, surfaces and textures. <br />
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However, any aged dog can benefit from this type of sensory input. Be wary of sharp rocks and other things and go slow if your dog isn't used to odd surfaces. Always use safety and precaution first and foremost! Use rewards. Scatter food on the surface for them to search and forage. Make this fun and rewarding. This is also a great confidence booster for dogs that may need an ego boost!<br />
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<li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Sensory Gardens!</b> You can make your own backyard tons of fun. There are loads of ides online for sensory gardens and fun for your yard to really make your dog have a fun and enriching space. <a href="https://www.yourdog.co.uk/dog-care-and-advice/dog-health-and-care/can-i-create-a-sensory-garden-for-my-dog/" target="_blank">Here is a great article</a> on how to <a href="https://www.yourdog.co.uk/dog-care-and-advice/dog-health-and-care/can-i-create-a-sensory-garden-for-my-dog/" target="_blank">do your own sensory garden</a>. <a href="http://www.myhusky.com.au/a-huskyfied-backyard/" target="_blank">Here</a> is a guy who made his Huskies some <a href="http://www.myhusky.com.au/a-huskyfied-backyard/" target="_blank">great sensory and fun in his yard</a>.<br />
</span><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IqqQWYiwCI0/XFh9p2uQR8I/AAAAAAABF9U/aX44fykxGyswrgP-HbvJRFSWK2EQa-mwgCEwYBhgL/s1600/DIY-Dog-Sensory-Garden.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="368" data-original-width="547" height="134" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IqqQWYiwCI0/XFh9p2uQR8I/AAAAAAABF9U/aX44fykxGyswrgP-HbvJRFSWK2EQa-mwgCEwYBhgL/s200/DIY-Dog-Sensory-Garden.jpg" width="200" /></span></a><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br />
These gardens can be anything from agility type equipment to mounds, tunnels, ponds or dog pools, decks and riverbeds to anything you can imagine! You can all kinds of things to make or buy at home garden centers and sometimes even just lying around your home or in your garage! You can have great fun with this one while also making your yard fun for your dogs ... and kids if you have those too!<br />
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<li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Enrichment walks/hikes.</b> Taking your dog out for walking is boring, if you really think about it. Most of the time people are making their dog walk in a straight line, no room for going anywhere to sniff or be a dog. Make the walk truly beneficial –– let your dog sniff, a lot! As I stated above when discussing using their sniffer – when dogs are able to use their noses it's so incredibly rewarding as well as mentally stimulating for them. <br />
<span id="goog_1279853265"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_1279853266"></span></span><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ea7Vv8I0zzA/XFnfNxWO5pI/AAAAAAABF-Y/Je1bTOTO_zgLexGdrSLCD-YLXD_X71ZTQCLcBGAs/s1600/charlotte_hiking_Sophie.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 0em; text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ea7Vv8I0zzA/XFnfNxWO5pI/AAAAAAABF-Y/Je1bTOTO_zgLexGdrSLCD-YLXD_X71ZTQCLcBGAs/s200/charlotte_hiking_Sophie.jpg" width="150" /></span></a><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br />
Let them use their noses on walks whether in nature (hiking, exploring), in your neighborhood (sniff mailboxes, lawns) or in the city (sidewalks, benches, etc.). Dogs need to sniff! I have my dogs on cue to let them know they can now go to the end of their leash so that we are still practicing leash manners. So you can do this too so that your leash manners still stay intact. I say "Ok you're free to go!" then they go to the end and sniff away!<br /><br /></span></li><li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Training.</b> Obviously this one is my favorite because I'm best at this! However, many people leave out training. Even just simple foundation skills such as: hand targeting, sit, down, and come when called can benefit your dog in multiple ways. It is a great way to get your dog to use her brain while also learning basic skills that will be <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgCV-3VeBHsYeFl6RShki1Cw0HSlHL1JIGTN-pFItirWCNRwCIKsBpZskHKwfHXSdFvOuW3-71tN62loFizaWZF8vgq8mocZ0jpWR1en9sqoUrviZ0BaesnwhbZHw2MyQPXRJf8rjZ0B4kzIvJyRqqRuEzVAOtjKEtNbMnrgIu1qQAhX4rhQIPNyLDH=s1334" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="992" data-original-width="1334" height="125" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgCV-3VeBHsYeFl6RShki1Cw0HSlHL1JIGTN-pFItirWCNRwCIKsBpZskHKwfHXSdFvOuW3-71tN62loFizaWZF8vgq8mocZ0jpWR1en9sqoUrviZ0BaesnwhbZHw2MyQPXRJf8rjZ0B4kzIvJyRqqRuEzVAOtjKEtNbMnrgIu1qQAhX4rhQIPNyLDH=w168-h125" width="168" /></a></div>useful in more ways than one! <br /><br />Training your dog really should be a must as it helps build the relationship between you and your dog as well as helps you get rid of any behavior issues that may be in play. Depending on your dog and any challenges you have this could be easy or complex. I do recommend you hire a professional trainer to help you in some way if you want to properly train your dog. <br /></span></li></ul><div><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div> <span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>The above are just a list of a few ways to give your dog mental stimulation and enrichment.</b> You can be creative and have fun with it. Your dog will thank you for it! There are also a lot of fun DIY ideas on <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/sunshinetrain/dog-enrichment-toys-activities/" target="_blank">Pinterest</a> that I've <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/sunshinetrain/dog-enrichment-toys-activities/" target="_blank">posted to my board</a>. </span><br />
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</span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>Remember to get a calm dog you want to provide all of the above and do not leave out the component of sleep – plenty of it too! </b>If you give too much of one and not the other you'll likely see some behaviors that you don't like in your dog! When in doubt, always get in touch with a qualified, professional trainer in your area.</span></span></div>
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</div>The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-50703491740569098602018-10-10T12:24:00.001-05:002022-08-16T10:19:21.430-05:00Success Stations: What & how?<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>A what?! What in the world is a Success Station?</b> A success station is a management tool. This means there is no actual training going on, but the dog is learning </span>that good things<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> happen in this particular place while other things are occurring in another part of the home. For example, pleasant things happen while they are in their crate while mom feeds the baby in the nursery.</span><br />
</span><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oGOYa6alEz0/W6Rq_70Au3I/AAAAAAAA9uo/G9hV-vjp8mEbA3N6WdnrYJfTNXJqly7jwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-09-20%2Bat%2B10.51.21%2BPM.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="606" data-original-width="792" height="152" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oGOYa6alEz0/W6Rq_70Au3I/AAAAAAAA9uo/G9hV-vjp8mEbA3N6WdnrYJfTNXJqly7jwCPcBGAYYCw/s200/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-09-20%2Bat%2B10.51.21%2BPM.png" width="200" /></span></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>SUCCESS STATION</b> — any designated spot that a dog is limited to so that they have no option but to succeed. This spot must be introduced in a positive manner and is for limited periods of time only. (as defined by <a href="http://www.familypaws.ocm/" target="_blank">Family Paws Parent Education®</a>)</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>FOR NEW PARENTS: </b>NEWBORNS, INFANTS & TODDLERS APPLY</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Family Paws Parent Educators primarily promote the use of these for parents with infants and small children, although there are many situations where a Success Station would be beneficial. (<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/9403qfgvncjw15a/FPPE_SuccessStation2.pdf?dl=0" target="_blank">download handout pictured</a>)</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">When a family has a new baby these stations are critical in helping mom and dad maintain some semblance of sanity. They create safe, enjoyable places for the family dog to stay when the regular routine is challenged because of the adaptations that come when accommodating a newborn’s needs. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">I personally do not like thrusting a huge training plan on to new parents. It's not fair and it's not realistic, and ... well ... it's not going to be followed. The truth is that new parents have too many other priorities than training the dog to respond to new behaviors. <b>Success Stations are lifesavers for this very reason — they are simple and easy. When done properly, Success Stations get a dog in a safe place while he makes positive associations with what's going on with this new little attention-sucking human around. </b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>TYPES OF SUCCESS STATIONS:</b> TETHER, CRATE OR GATE (OR X-PEN)</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><u>TETHER STATION</u></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">You can anchor a dog with a tether safely to an anchor (eye hook) in the wall (securely installed in a stud) or to a secure stationary object like a non-movable piece of furniture or do a reverse doorknob tether. A reverse doorknob tether (tm) — <i>I totally just made that term up!</i> — is when you put the leash on the opposite side of the door, on the knob, and shut the door on the leash so that it's completely secure. </span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w17l6ztOfQ4/W742VBFVy4I/AAAAAAAA9wc/YoPxVBa-tEMbmpKLPtMmIE9BH37akcwBwCLcBGAs/s1600/using-a-dog-tether.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="491" data-original-width="750" height="130" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w17l6ztOfQ4/W742VBFVy4I/AAAAAAAA9wc/YoPxVBa-tEMbmpKLPtMmIE9BH37akcwBwCLcBGAs/s200/using-a-dog-tether.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">The tether is a great Success Station tool if you don't want your dog behind a physical barrier or out of the room (or he isn't good in those situations), but still safely secured so as not to be able to get up, move around and/or get to the baby. <i>(Note: This is best when used <u>only with non-mobile babies!</u> Moving babies could easily approach a dog tethered and that's not safe, so other Success Stations are recommended for mobile babies, toddlers and kids.) </i></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><u>CRATE STATION</u></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">My personal favorite Success Station is the crate. This is a great tool because it's totally secure and dog is completely out of the way and totally enclosed in a safe spot. This is also great for dogs that may be in the stage where they are still really unsure about the baby and you aren't certain of her feelings about this new little person, so they may feel better being in an entirely different room alone in a crate.</span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-laM_aFmYOOg/W742PDoXawI/AAAAAAAA9wY/H2_ZwhrptysAc3xa_a_b8Ju7xAVuEHnhwCEwYBhgL/s1600/dog_crate_baby_floor.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="345" data-original-width="720" height="95" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-laM_aFmYOOg/W742PDoXawI/AAAAAAAA9wY/H2_ZwhrptysAc3xa_a_b8Ju7xAVuEHnhwCEwYBhgL/s200/dog_crate_baby_floor.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">A crate Success Station is also perfect to use when you are very confident in <a href="https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2017/08/the-most-important-thing-to-teach-fido.html" target="_blank">how your dog handles being crated while you're home</a>. If your dog is really crate-savvy and comfortable, this option is fantastic. If she's not, look at my troubleshooting section below.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><u>GATE STATION (OR X-PEN)</u></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Gates (or <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=x-pen&ref=nb_sb_noss_2" target="_blank">x-pens</a>) are a great option as they help set boundaries for both dogs and children. They can also be located in various locations in your home and you can section off space that is large enough that Fido is comfortable and can have a nice space of his own away from baby. </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JQt7ceK32PQ/W742ee3tPII/AAAAAAAA9wg/lP6ByJXGxbM7kw8Zv4xY1MvNjUv-69rNwCLcBGAs/s1600/baby_gate_dog_kong.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="680" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JQt7ceK32PQ/W742ee3tPII/AAAAAAAA9wg/lP6ByJXGxbM7kw8Zv4xY1MvNjUv-69rNwCLcBGAs/s200/baby_gate_dog_kong.jpg" width="141" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Be sure to get a secure gate and one that is tall enough for your dog. Also, be sure you know whether or not your dog will jump a gate or knock one over. If she does jump gates or knock them over I suggest maybe utilizing a different Success Station tool and do more training — you know in between all those baby feedings! — which is covered in my troubleshooting section below.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>WHEN WOULD I USE A SUCCESS STATION?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">There are many times when a Success Station would benefit you and your dog. Here are a few examples that are very common:</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>baby feeding time </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>tummy-time on the floor</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>toys & fun for babies on the floor</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>when baby starts to roll over &/or crawl</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> toddler(s) playing & dog needs a safe place</span></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>kids running in & out of the home</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>kids having kids over to play (read: chaos!)</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>you have to work from home & need alone time</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>during dinner parties</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>holidays (read: lots of family & guests)</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>entertaining at your home (guests moving about your home)</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>WHY WOULD I NEED TO PUT FLUFFY AWAY?!</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">You may be asking – “Why can’t Fluffy stay out with me and baby? I want them to learn to live together!” This is a very common thought process for parents. They want their dog and child to learn to cohabitate and live around one another, to bond and build a relationship. However, the key to a fruitful relationship between Fluffy and baby is setting her up to learn to cohabitate peacefully and safely with baby. Remember: babies are only babies for a short time. This means that there is a lot of time for your child to learn and grow with Fluffy. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">In those beginning months, usually first few years, it’s most important that we simply teach Fluffy that having a child around means good things and no one will allow anything unsafe to happen. Unsafe for dogs could mean a child: grabbing an ear, crawling quickly across the room, reaching for Fluffy’s toys, making loud baby sounds and many other things a child does that may be uncomfortable for Fluffy.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">If Fluffy learns that a child equals loud sounds, unpredictable movements and grabbing, she may just decide children are no fun to be around at all. So, it’s safest to teach her that in those beginning years we will keep her safe and offer good things while that unpredictable child is living in the same home. This will ensure that Fluffy builds good associations early and begins to look forward to being around your child because she knows you will not let anything uncomfortable happen and you’ll provide wonderful things when your child is around! Win!</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>HOW DO I SET UP A SUCCESSFUL SUCCESS STATION?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Your dog's Success Station should be very comfy and inviting. I suggest having a comfy bed or blanket for Fido in the Success Station area. Also, provide safe Success Station Goodies for him (see list of goodies to use below) while in there. Providing rewarding things ensures he will make positive associations with the Success Station.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">I also highly recommend adding a <a href="https://www.petacoustics.com/" target="_blank">Pet Acoustics cube</a> near or in the area of the Success Station. This is a 2" x 2" x 2" cube that is a little speaker and emits calming tunes designed just for dogs. It comes with a little strap (like those cell phone straps) and you can hang it on a wall. It goes almost anywhere it's so small and portable! I love mine! </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Get Fluffy and take her to the Success Station*. Attach the tether to her collar, or put her into a crate or behind the gate. Give her a pre-stuffed, frozen Kong once she’s in the station. <i>(For Kong Recipe ideas <a href="http://bit.ly/kongrecipesforfun" target="_blank">click here to download my recipes handout</a>.)</i> I also suggest you take time to get at least 3-6 Kongs, pre-stuff them and have them in the freezer and ready to serve as needed! If you need to use something other than a Kong you can use a mixture of several different goodies to give Fluffy while in there. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>Other SUCCESS STATION GOODIES instead of a Kong</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Provide a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071CQ9SK9/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B071CQ9SK9&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=XVTPAPEBK31PYV6BYCSB&pd_rd_wg=By6N4&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=vlOGQ&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=b9072ea8-c7df-11e8-b5ee-af66c644a3b1" target="_blank">bully stick</a> for Fido to chew on (<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0799PS51N/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0799PS51N&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=5TH2D0FE23YE3SZJQCQY&pd_rd_wg=YUBrg&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=tqNoM&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=9b07e365-c7df-11e8-9c40-258f68d376cf" target="_blank">braided ones</a> last longer)</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Sprinkle Fluffy's kibble in a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1FV55I/ref=sxts_kp_bs_tr_lp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=c2ama&pf_rd_r=G1JX91Q7TKNRSKX611HG&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01N1FV55I&pd_rd_w=CFl2a&pf_rd_i=snuffle+mat&pd_rd_r=84a03b1b-f169-41dd-bf3a-d0dcf135b85b&ie=UTF8&qid=1538662463&sr=1" target="_blank">Snuffle Mat</a> </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://www.chewy.com/s?query=antlers&nav-submit-button=" target="_blank">Deer/Elk/Moose antlers</a> are good chews</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Stuff a <a href="https://www.chewy.com/s?query=water+buffalo+horn&nav-submit-button=" target="_blank">water buffalo horn</a> with food; Fido can chew the empty horn too!</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Fill a few <a href="https://www.chewy.com/b/treat-toys-dispensers-2336?rh=c%3A288%2Cc%3A315%2Cc%3A319&query=puzzles" target="_blank">interactive food puzzles</a> for Fluffy to work on (<a href="https://www.pinterest.com/sunshinetrain/dog-enrichment-toys-activities/" target="_blank">more on my Pinterest board</a>)</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Give Fido a <a href="https://www.chewy.com/s?query=marrow+bones&nav-submit-button=" target="_blank">marrow bone</a> (these can be raw/frozen or dry flavored)</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /><b>It's really important that you provide some type of goodie while Fido is in the Success Station</b> so he will build up good associations with being alone while you are with baby. He will start to think — <i>oooh when mom feeds that little squeaky baby I get to be safe in my own little place & I get yummy things!</i> That little squeaky thing can't be all that bad! It’s even better if the <i>only</i> time he does get a goodie is when he is in the station.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>HOW LONG SHOULD FLUFFY BE IN THE SUCCESS STATION?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">This may vary depending on what’s going on. It’s great to do all the things laid out here so that whether Fluffy is in the station for 15 minutes or a couple of hours, she’s totally relaxed and fine with either. Ideally, Fluffy should be ok in the station for whatever amount of time you need her to be in there.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>*TROUBLESHOOTING</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Is your dog not comfortable in a success station? Won't sit still? Whines? Paces? Barks? Stresses out when left alone when you’re in the other room? <b>If your dog isn't good when alone, separated from you when you’re home, you'll need to do some training.</b> This would ideally be before your baby comes but that isn't always the case. You can still do this slowly and successfully without having to spend a lot of time training. The key is consistency and dedication. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">I also wrote a few blog post that may be of benefit as well, the first one is called <a href="https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2017/08/the-most-important-thing-to-teach-fido.html" target="_blank">“The most important thing to teach Fido”</a> . Also another great one revolves around crates and their use, tips and more, titled <a href="https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2017/02/crate-training-truths-tips.html" target="_blank">“Crate Training Truths & Tips.”</a></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>You can do this, even with a busy and demanding lifestyle! So, start setting your dog up in Success Stations now, regardless if you are pregnant or already have a child …</b></span><br />
</span><ul>
<li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Feed all meals in the area that will be used as a Success Station. </b>No food or meals should be fed outside of this area for the next 30 days, only inside the crate, behind a gate or in an x-pen. This will help Fluffy think all the great things happen when inside the Success Station, hence she will want to be in there more often!</span></li>
<ul>
<li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">If you need to go slowly follow the <a href="https://www.clickertraining.com/node/3140" target="_blank">protocols listed in this article</a> written by Casey Lomonaco. </span></li>
<li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">You can also implement <a href="https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLG0XumFcCmOQoRasVJt0h85DBwfd-nc2l" target="_blank">Susan Garrett's Crate Games</a>. Although this is used for crates the process can be implemented in any area. </span></li>
</ul>
<li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Put Fido in the Success Station for short periods of time and gradually increase the time he is in there.</b> Be sure to put several goodies in there and make it as fabulous as possible.</span></li>
<li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Make all times Fluffy isn't in the room with you or is in any way separated from you a more desirable experience than being with you.</b> This means when she's with you don't make it as fun as being without you. <i>(Note: This is temporary until she finds being alone just as good as being with you.)</i></span></li>
<li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>While working on Fido getting used to being in a crate, behind a gate or in an x-pen you can utilize the tether option for a Success Station. </b>This is one that is good to use as the dog can be in the same room without being in or behind a barrier. Still provide all the same Success Station Goodies while Fido is tethered, listed above in the Success Station Goodies list. If baby is mobile you’ll also need to use an x-pen to put around Fido so dog cannot reach baby.</span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>IN CONCLUSION</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Success Stations are designed to help dog and baby cohabitate peacefully while parents can have peace of mind. There is a lot of info in this article, however, <b>I do highly recommend you find a licensed <a href="https://www.familypaws.com/member-directory/" target="_blank">Family Paws Parent Educator near you</a> to come in and help your family draw up a plan to suit your needs best. </b>If there isn’t an educator located near you there are several who do consults via Skype, FaceTime, or Zoom. There is also a hotline that is answered all the time, free of charge (877) 247-3407. Family Paws Educators receive very specialized training (outside of normal dog training education) to specifically help families that are preparing for a baby, have a baby (or babies!) and toddlers.</span><br />
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-51255024954716171182018-09-19T12:20:00.002-05:002022-03-14T01:55:16.166-05:00Growling dogs: Should we punish or not?<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">So let's discuss a <a href="https://www.facebook.com/sunshinedogtrainingandbehavior/posts/1781555568610202" target="_blank">Facebook post</a> from last week that I made on my business page – <a href="https://www.facebook.com/sunshinedogtrainingandbehavior" target="_blank">Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior</a> – that stated a quote from a trainer (I've yet to identify with certainty who said this so it's stated as "unknown") – <b><i>“Punishing a dog for growling is like taking the batteries out of your smoke detector.”</i></b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">What does that even mean?! I mean heavens no Fido shouldn't be growling at my 2-year-old just for wanting to come over and pet him! I'm not going to allow that behavior in my house!</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Whoa, whoa ... Let's back up a bit. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Dogs don't speak English ... or German, or Spanish, or French ... they don't speak at all! So, they have a set of skills they use to communicate in the same way we humans use verbal language, some are vocalizations and most are body language cues. So that we can better understand, since we aren't canines, let's use this example . . . Have you ever seen a deaf person "speaking" with sign language? If you are not proficient in sign language then you likely thought to yourself, "hmmm, I don't know what she is saying." However, you might begin to read their body language and get some idea, but not as much as you would if you knew sign language and/or if they could speak to you. Why? Because this is our first line of communication as humans – using verbal language to communicate with one another. So everything else is foreign and sometimes confusing. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Do we punish deaf people if they are using sign language to try to communicate with us and we don't understand? No we try to understand and figure out what they are saying so we can help them. Why should we not extend this courtesy to other species so that we can live harmoniously together?</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>WHY DO DOGS GROWL?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Dogs growl as a form of communication. It’s one of their “voices” just like barking is one of their voices, as well as snapping. Dogs have many “voices” but since they aren’t like what we are used to and they are much more cringe-worthy at times, us humans often have emotional reactions to when dogs use their “voices” to communicate. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">It’s important to note that if your dog has resorted to growling 99% of the time many previous signals have been ignored and so the dog has resorted to growling. Growling isn’t usually the first line of communication for dogs. In most situations a dog will give off subtle body language cues and signals that let others know they are not comfortable. When those cues go unnoticed or, at least to the dog, unheard (so-to-speak) the dog will resort to growling or other more dramatic means of communication.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">When a dog growls they are possibly saying one of a few things:</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">• I’m highly fearful/nervous</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">• I’m uncomfortable right now</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">• I’m hurting/ill</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">• I’m unfamiliar with this</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">• I’m worried you're gonna take my stuff!</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">• I’m playing!</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">• I’m a growly-talker</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">• I’m confused & very conflicted</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">So, let’s discuss these reasons for growling in more detail. While reading these details keep in mind that growling is part of a set of communication and body language signals. You should always, as with all animals, look at the entire dog to put the puzzle together. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">It’s important to always take into consideration – body language of the entire dog: ears, eyes, facial expression, tail, body, hair, paws, and mouth/tongue. What do all these things put together indicate the dog is “saying”? The below details of why dogs growl is only part of a puzzle piece. In order to help dogs that may communicate with a growl, we must take into account the rest of the puzzle.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>I’M HIGHLY FEARFUL/NERVOUS</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LTJ-QLyb6uE/W6KCHcnZmxI/AAAAAAAA9s4/FJDUF3azcu0CFMs6YBCKSVQ40zw-15SEACLcBGAs/s1600/fearful_dog_whale_eye.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="200" data-original-width="300" height="133" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LTJ-QLyb6uE/W6KCHcnZmxI/AAAAAAAA9s4/FJDUF3azcu0CFMs6YBCKSVQ40zw-15SEACLcBGAs/s200/fearful_dog_whale_eye.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Some highly fearful dogs growl when they feel afraid and uncertain about the situation they are in, and/or the person/animal that is approaching them. When I say “highly fearful” I’m speaking of dogs that react with extreme fear in normal situations – hiding from all people, hiding for no real apparent reason, retreating fearfully from people, situations and/or sounds (one or a mix of those).</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What does this sound/look like?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Often this presents as a low growl, an under-the-breath-type growl with no teeth bared and no open mouth, followed with hollow barking – not loud and alert-like but more several barks, some growls, and some woofs that are half-hearted. Some highly fearful dogs are completely silent and make no sound at all, and would rather just retreat to a perceived safe place. However, more commonly I’ve seen the scenario with the low growl and hollow woofs.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">If a dog is cornered or becomes incredibly fearful due to lack of space or way to escape, often they will bare teeth, squint eyes, blink a lot, tighten their body into the smallest ball they can (like when hunched into a corner) and growl low and guttural. This is an extremely fearful dog that it trying it’s hardest to “keep it together” while also telling someone they are afraid and their flight response is frozen but they don’t want to directly go to the fight response.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">It should be noted that in some scenarios a highly fearful dog may go directly from growling to a fight response. A common scenario where this may happen is at a veterinarian’s office. Please note, in these cases a dog goes to fight-mode quickly due to lack of space, overwhelming fear and uneasiness in this environment. Add to this, a veterinarian or vet tech that continues to approach the dog regardless of her obvious signs of stress, and you have a recipe for the perfect storm. This dog may resort to snapping or biting when the veterinarian or tech reaches for or touches the dog. Not all dogs will respond this way, but it’s definitely not uncommon. (More on that later.)</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is an example case?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">One client case I had a dog was horrified of strange people coming into the home. As soon as a stranger (to the dog) entered the home the dog would growl very low, no teeth bared and no mouth open. Just a low, soft growl sound could be heard, with low hollow woofs. While this particular dog was growling and woofing he was also showing severe signs of stress with the rest of his body language – head lowered, ears back, tail under his body and he was darting quickly back and forth to “get away” from the person as they moved further into the home while also maintaining a huge amount of space between the person and himself. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">This dog was extremely afraid of people, it was quite obvious when listening to and reading the dog. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is a likely outcome?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Dogs that are highly fearful and/or nervous have a much higher propensity to snap and/or bite. This does not mean all fearful dogs will bite, however, a highly fearful dog is usually mentally unable to cope appropriately and therefore, a much higher risk for inflicting a bite. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">It is imperative that highly fearful dogs get professional help, even if they aren’t biters, from a qualified trainer/behavior consultant that can consult with a qualified veterinarian and/or Veterinary Behaviorist if necessary (often fear cases do need medication, but only a veterinarian or Behaviorist can make this decision.)</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">A treatment plan – both medically and behaviorally – are the only way to work with a dog like this. It isn’t unusual to have extremely fearful dogs that never become totally normal household companions. While this isn’t an absolute, it is definitely more the case than not. However, these dogs can learn to cope and live a much better quality of life with the right protocols in place and dedicated, patient owners.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><a href="https://youtu.be/YBTA_R-OF28" target="_blank">Here is an excellent video</a> from <a href="https://ferndogtraining.com/" target="_blank">FernDog Training</a> with a fearful dog that barks/growls (you cannot hear the growl so much in the video.)</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>I’M UNCOMFORTABLE RIGHT NOW</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Many dogs become growly in certain situations, environments or with things that make them uncomfortable as a non-confrontational way to say “um, please don’t do that again” or “you’re making me very uncomfortable right now, please stop/go away”.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What does this sound/look like?</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Often this presents as a low growl, an under-the-breath-type growl and if the person doesn’t hear or respect this first line of communication, the dog often begins to bare teeth while growling. Often in these scenarios the dog is frozen and doesn’t really move. This can often be mis-read and brushed off, or worse the dog is reprimanded in some way for growling in this scenario. Reprimanding usually causes the growling to escalate to more growling and very often snapping or biting. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">I have often heard, “if he was uncomfortable why didn’t he just get up and walk away?” Often this is due to the dog feeling so uncomfortable that he freezes in fear of making a move or making things worse for himself. His brain freezes and he is unable to get up. Then, sometimes the dog doesn’t move because he was there first and/or was comfortable. Plain and simple!</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is an example case?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">One client case I had a dog kept growling at the toddler in the home when she would try to pet the dog while she was lying on her dog bed on the floor. The dog was not comfortable with the toddler during this time and more often than not, would end up growling at the toddler. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Another case was a dog that would growl when the owner tried to grab him and pull him out of his crate. As soon as the owner’s hand went in the dog began to growl. If the owner kept going in to grab him the dog would snap at the owner’s hand.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is a likely outcome?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Dogs that are growling when the dog is uncomfortable have very positive outcomes when the owner is able to work with a qualified trainer. The trainer should be showing the owners’ how to implement classical counter-conditioning (making the dog form a new association that elicits a pleasant emotional response, or no response to the trigger) and desensitization (gradually making good associations to the trigger) to the trigger(s) that usually cause the dog to start growling.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">With proper training this type of growling can be totally diminished and go away completely. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>I’M HURTING/ILL</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Many dogs become growly when they are in pain and/or sick. Some dogs are very good at hiding pain/illness, however, some are sensitive or the pain or illness causes enough discomfort that it triggers a growl or snap. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What does this sound/look like?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Often this presents as a low growl, an under-the-breath-type growl, often with teeth bared (but not always). If the person doesn’t respect this canine communication the dog often snaps quickly once then retreats. Usually the dog that growls when hurt and wants the person to go away and leave them alone. This is why the dog will often snap once and retreat if the person doesn’t leave them alone. However, don’t assume that all dogs will react this way. Some will bite and make contact with skin or break skin when in pain. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Often this is stated to be “totally out of the ordinary” for the dog and the owner is quite surprised by the dog’s reactions. This is a very good indication the dog should first be seen by a veterinarian, as they are likely reacting due to pain or illness. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is an example case?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">This is actually a case where the dog was growling out of character toward the other dog in the home. The two dogs had always gotten on very well with one another and one day, for several days consecutively, the owners noticed when the dogs played one dog would become really agitated and began to growl and snap at the other dog in a non-playful manner. It was recommended that a vet visit was in order. The vet found the offending dog had cancer in his front leg. The dog was in a great deal of pain unbeknownst to the owners. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">There was a case where a dog would growl at the owner every time she picked the dog up. She felt this was a behavioral thing as the dog had done this for well over a year. She took the dog to the vet and the dog was found to have arthritis in its little hips (it was a small dog). The dog had been uncomfortable for quite some time and luckily for the owner had only resorted to growling and never snapped or bit the owner.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is a likely outcome?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Dogs that are growling when in pain usually stop when the medical condition is treated and resolved, if it’s a treatable condition/illness. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">In some cases, like the little dog with arthritis, the owner was just more respectful of the dog and learned how to handle the dog in a way that wasn’t painful or would just leave her be if she wasn’t comfortable enough to be picked up. Medication helped that little dog but she would still have bouts of pain and growl if the owner mishandled her at all, so she learned a work around that respected the dog and lessened her need to growl.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>I’M UNFAMILIAR WITH THIS</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Many dogs become growly towards inanimate objects or sometimes people they don’t immediately recognize or if the person appears in the dark or in an abnormal situation (like walking through the back gate, instead of the front door, and startles the dog).</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What does this sound/look like?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">This is a very common behavior with puppies when they are learning what the world around them is like and they encounter new, unfamiliar things. Usually the dog shows some strong “oh my gosh I cannot get near that whatchamacallit” body language while growling and huffing at it. This often presents as body stretched out long and far but not too far so that they don’t get too close to said whatchamacallit. Usually they are trying to sniff the object to get a feel for what it is, often stopping to growl and huff while moving stealthily around the thing.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">When this presents with people often the dog is backing up while growling and huffing and/or darting from side to side trying to make sense of what they are seeing.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is an example case?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">One of my own dogs was like this when I rescued him. He was very wary of strange men in particular and once a friend entered through our backyard gate when we were outside. People rarely, if ever, entered our yard. This set him off and he darted to the back door first then crept a bit closer while low growling and huffing a bit. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Another case was a puppy that was uncertain about fire hydrants on the sidewalk. This puppy was around 3-4 months old and when he first saw a hydrant he jumped back, then went back in with a long body stretch and tried to sniff. Then he backed up and growled and huffed and barked a little bit.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is a likely outcome?</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">If this involves a young puppy, usually just proper exposure while conditioning the dog to make good associations with unfamiliar things will do the trick on this. They will totally move past it. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">If it’s an adult dog with some fears of objects or people in unpredictable scenarios, a qualified trainer can help lay out a plan to help the dog overcome these reactions. Most dogs can totally overcome this with proper work and dedication, and some dogs don’t, or the owner decides to just live with these infrequent bouts of growling.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>I’M WORRIED YOU'RE GONNA TAKE MY STUFF!</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Some dogs can growl when they are in possession of an object, toy, bone, food, water, or even a person. This is due to the dog fearing what they are in possession of will be taken away from them. We refer to this as "resource guarding". They are guarding something they view as a valued resource. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What does this sound/look like?</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">This is actually a pretty common behavior with dogs. It is definitely not something us humans see as desirable or tolerable in any way, however, it's not an uncommon dog behavior. </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">As listed above, people can also be resources to a dog and the dog can growl when someone approaches a person the dog is standing/sitting near or if the person is holding the dog. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">This usually shows up with the dog lowering his head, stiff body, frozen body (not moving), ears pinned back, lips turned back and teeth showing while a low, guttural growl can be heard. The closer someone gets to a dog guarding something the lower their head usually goes and the more intense the teeth showing and growling becomes. If the person actually approaches this dog it is not uncommon that the dog lashes out and bites the person and/or lunges to snap at the person.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">It should be noted that resource guarding can vary greatly. It can be a small growl at times without all the display of teeth, etc. or it can be so extreme the dog just lunges from across the room if someone enters and the dog is in possession of something (this is an extreme case, and not as common). So, resource guarding is on a huge sliding scale.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is an example case?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">I had a case where the dog would grab a toy, run under a chair and begin to rip the toy to shreds. This case the dog had things taken from him so often and was "getting in trouble" for it that he began to just guard the things he'd steal. His behavior had escalated as the owners (unknowingly) scolded him and got very upset with him 1) for stealing and 2) then for growling once he took the item and they tried to retrieve it. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">This escalated the dog's fearful behaviors and therefore his resource guarding behaviors. He was so confused and afraid that he responded with growling and snarling and snapping. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is a likely outcome?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">If this behavior is handled correctly with the appropriate training style and method</span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">–</span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">not punishment or "showing who's boss" type stuff, then the outcome can be very good. There is no other way to handle this than to hire a professional who is very well versed in dog behavior and how to overcome this behavior. This behavior can escalate and become dangerous if it is not handled properly or is mis-handled. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>I’M PLAYING!</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Many dogs become growly as a form of play or during play. This is totally different than growling as a warning sign. This is play growling! Often seen when playing tug-o-war with your dog or if two dogs are playing tug-o-war with a toy together. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What does this sound/look like?</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Often seen when you are playing tug-o-war with your dog or if two dogs are playing tug-o-war together. It’s not always with toys or tug, but it is only presented during play. This growl is usually low but the important thing to remember with this growl is that the rest of the dog’s body language is clearly not afraid, nervous, conflicted or confused. The dog is in total play-mode – bouncing around, jumping, loose body, happy and clearly having fun.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is an example case?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Since this is a different category than the other growl categories, I don’t really have a case example. I will say that my Beagle loves to play tug and if I start saying “Get it! Get it!” while I’m holding the end of the tug in my hand, she has the other end in her mouth; she’ll let out growls. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is a likely outcome?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Dogs that like to play!</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>I’M A GROWLY TALKER</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Many dogs become growly as a form of “talking” to their owner or other people. Usually this isn’t as much a growl as it is a low weird sound. It’s honestly best described as “talking”. But some dogs do some growling as talking. If your dog does this you definitely know what I’m talking about! </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What does this sound/look like?</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">This is usually a weird sound that sounds like growling but talking but weird sounds. It’s different with all dogs but it’s usually funny to hear. It’s also very obvious to most dog owners that this is a silly growl/talk. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is an example case?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Since this is a different category than the other growl categories, I don’t really have a case example. However, my Great Dane was a huge talker with some low deep growl-type sounds mixed in. It was really funny to hear him.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is a likely outcome?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">We put it on cue for my Dane and if you said “tell me, tell me” he’d start talking to you.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>I’M CONFUSED & VERY CONFLICTED</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Many dogs become growly in certain situations if they are confused or do not know what we are asking of them. I see this more often in dogs that have been corrected for certain behaviors, usually including growling, and have a huge distrust of their owner. This is usually with a very impatient dog owner and a dog that has learned that it cannot do anything right in the eyes of the owner.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What does this sound/look like?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Often this happens after the owner attempts to ask the dog to do something (like lie down) and the dog is clearly confused at the request. The dog usually presents her confusion as body language of fear, then when the owner continues to confuse or correct the dog for not complying, the dog often begins to growl out of pure desperation to make the owner stop.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">As stated, this often presents as fear behavior at first – the dog will bare teeth, might squint eyes, might blink a lot, might tighten her body into the smallest ball she can (like when hunched into a corner), or may just freeze and growl low and guttural. This is a very conflicted dog that is trying her hardest to “keep it together” while also telling someone she is confused and wants the owner to stop whatever they are doing or asking of the dog.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is an example case?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">It should be noted this is more along the lines of what I’d be apt to call abuse. So, I’ve not personally worked with a lot of cases with dogs like this but I’ve seen it in public and in other venues, on TV, etc. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">I do recall one case I had many moons ago in a group class I was holding. A man had pretty high expectations of his really young Labrador. We were going over a basic cue – sit or down, I don’t recall – and his dog wasn’t given clear instructions (from my point of view). The dog kind of flopped to the ground in what I call "silliness defense". The owner became highly frustrated and raised his voice to the dog, repeating “get up!”. The dog began to squint his eyes and blink and look away – all the signals to say “please stop, I am so confused and scared”. Then, the dog began to bare his teeth and let out a low growl, as an act of desperation. Keep in mind this happened in a matter of seconds and I was trotting as quickly as I could over to stop this mess while saying to the owner "Stop!"</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">You should also know that this man became one of my best clients and did several classes with that dog, successfully. The dog and man did form a lovely bond and he stopped berating his dog and instead trained him appropriately.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>What is a likely outcome?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Dogs that are growling when totally conflicted are often very “soft” (sensitive) dogs to begin with. So, with proper training of the human this will likely be a thing of the past! </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>SO, HOW DO I KEEP MY DOG FROM GROWLING INAPPROPRIATELY & IS IT EVER OK TO CORRECT MY DOG FOR GROWLING?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">The question of the day! The truth is that if we can learn to “read”, understand, respect and communicate with our dogs we can avoid all kinds of unnecessary things. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">I feel that there is no time that it would be beneficial to the dog or the situation to punish or correct a dog for growling. I feel that a dog that growls should either be respected, such as in case that the dog is uncomfortable (just remove the dog or the thing that is making said dog uncomfortable) or more training on the end of the owner is needed.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Punishing growling can often lead the dog to believe that line of communication isn't working so she needs to get more direct next time. Perhaps this means a snap or a even a full bite to someone. She may skip growling altogether if it either gets punished or ignored over time.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">If we can train our dog to move off of a bed when we ask, there would be no need for a dog to growl when attempted to be moved. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">If we could read our dog when she showed signs that the hug we innocently thrusted upon her made her very uncomfortable, we would likely avoid a growl from her telling us to “please don’t do that.” This would in turn diffuse a situation that could escalate from a growl to a snap or bite as the dog would perceive that your lack of “listening” to the warning growl was insufficient and more drastic communication was necessary. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Of course the trainer is going to suggest training. However, this is truthfully one of the best ways to help learn more about your dog’s body language and communication skills, as well as what to do with all that information. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>Training dogs to understand cues from us is a key to a dog not being confused or finding the need to do what works for them because they don’t understand what is being asked or what is happening.</b> As stated before, we have to teach our dogs our language and how to understand it. We also need to learn their language and how to understand it. This is what will build a trusting relationship and make living with one another a happy and stress-free experience!</span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Stacy Greer </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">licensed <a href="http://www.familypaws.com/" target="_blank">Family Paws Parent Educator </a></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">& Private Trainer with <a href="http://www.thefamilydog.com/" target="_blank">The Family Dog™</a></span></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-78780239378922121702018-08-30T10:01:00.000-05:002019-08-15T22:13:28.732-05:00Can my kids walk the dog alone?<style> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Arial; panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:auto; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:-536859905 -1073711037 9 0 511 0;} @font-face {font-family:"Courier New"; panose-1:2 7 3 9 2 2 5 2 4 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:auto; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:-536859905 -1073711037 9 0 511 0;} @font-face {font-family:Wingdings; panose-1:5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0; mso-font-charset:2; mso-generic-font-family:auto; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:0 268435456 0 0 -2147483648 0;} @font-face {font-family:"MS 明朝"; mso-font-charset:78; mso-generic-font-family:auto; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;} @font-face {font-family:"MS 明朝"; 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mso-level-text:; mso-level-tab-stop:none; mso-level-number-position:left; text-indent:-.25in; font-family:Wingdings;} @list l3:level2 {mso-level-number-format:bullet; mso-level-text:o; mso-level-tab-stop:none; mso-level-number-position:left; text-indent:-.25in; font-family:"Courier New"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @list l3:level3 {mso-level-number-format:bullet; mso-level-text:; mso-level-tab-stop:none; mso-level-number-position:left; text-indent:-.25in; font-family:Wingdings;} @list l3:level4 {mso-level-number-format:bullet; mso-level-text:; mso-level-tab-stop:none; mso-level-number-position:left; text-indent:-.25in; font-family:Symbol;} @list l3:level5 {mso-level-number-format:bullet; mso-level-text:o; mso-level-tab-stop:none; mso-level-number-position:left; text-indent:-.25in; font-family:"Courier New"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @list l3:level6 {mso-level-number-format:bullet; mso-level-text:; mso-level-tab-stop:none; mso-level-number-position:left; text-indent:-.25in; font-family:Wingdings;} @list l3:level7 {mso-level-number-format:bullet; mso-level-text:; mso-level-tab-stop:none; mso-level-number-position:left; text-indent:-.25in; font-family:Symbol;} @list l3:level8 {mso-level-number-format:bullet; mso-level-text:o; mso-level-tab-stop:none; mso-level-number-position:left; text-indent:-.25in; font-family:"Courier New"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @list l3:level9 {mso-level-number-format:bullet; mso-level-text:; mso-level-tab-stop:none; mso-level-number-position:left; text-indent:-.25in; font-family:Wingdings;} ol {margin-bottom:0in;} ul {margin-bottom:0in;} </style> <a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gti6Ifs85E4/Wzklub8NOtI/AAAAAAAA9ig/s3TgRo-xsGUBazqkAsdy7je7fBBdJJvbQCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/child_walking_golden.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="408" data-original-width="612" height="133" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gti6Ifs85E4/Wzklub8NOtI/AAAAAAAA9ig/s3TgRo-xsGUBazqkAsdy7je7fBBdJJvbQCPcBGAYYCw/s200/child_walking_golden.jpg" width="200" /></a><b><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12.0pt;">When a family has a dog very commonly parents want their child(ren) to bond with the family dog and really learn the responsibilities that come with dog ownership. </span></b>
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<span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span> <span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12.0pt;">This is commendable and definitely should be part of every family's priority list when dealing with a family pet. However, adding "walk the dog" to your kids' responsibility chart may need some considerations to be taken into account first.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></b> <b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> THINGS TO ASK YOURSELF ABOUT YOUR CHILD & DOG</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></b> <b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></b><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Do your child & dog have a respectful & considerate relationship with each other? <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Does your dog follow/listen to directions/cues from your child? <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Has your dog ever shown signs of aggression toward any other person or animal? <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Has your dog ever chased cars or other animals? <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Can your child read/interpret canine body language & what it means? <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Can your child interpret situations & make appropriate/quick decisions when/if necessary? <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Is your child physically able to handle your dog if it starts to pull on the leash if a distraction were to re-focus your dog? </span><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -0.25in;"> </span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -0.25in;"> </span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">WHAT-IFs THAT SHOULD BE CONSIDERED</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span> <b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></b> <b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></b><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">What happens if your child were walking the dog and they were approached by a strange dog, off-leash? Would your child be equipped mentally and physically to handle that scenario? <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">What if your dog spooked or became highly aroused by a darting cat or squirrel? Could your child act fast and remain in control of your dog? <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">What if your dog's leash pops out of your child's hand and takes off running for some reason or another? Would your child know what to do in that situation? <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></b> <b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">WHAT IS YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD LIKE?</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span> <b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></b> <b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></b><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo3; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3c-3IWICtxI/W4eHAIF00tI/AAAAAAAA9pQ/kQduxyrX7sEKeDFY98VkgNA84GNNwzkTgCEwYBhgL/s1600/beagle_leash_chucks2.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="681" data-original-width="1024" height="132" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3c-3IWICtxI/W4eHAIF00tI/AAAAAAAA9pQ/kQduxyrX7sEKeDFY98VkgNA84GNNwzkTgCEwYBhgL/s200/beagle_leash_chucks2.png" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">What are the local dogs like that live around you, that you may encounter on a regular basis? <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo3; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Are there many off-leash dogs you encounter on your normal walking route? In your neighborhood in general? <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">If you encounter off-leash dogs, are they friendly? <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo3; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> Does your dog react in a friendly manner towards dogs that may approach him/her when on-leash? <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo3; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Is your dog controllable if excitable/distracted while walking on a leash?</span><br />
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<b><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></b> <b><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> IMPORTANT TIPS TO REMEMBER</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span> <b><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></b> <b><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></b><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">ü<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Be sure that Fido has received a good deal of positive training with regards to leash work & how to handle distractions & other dogs that may approach. <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">ü<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Fido should be able to be verbally & physically controlled by whoever is holding the leash. If only one family member has this ability they should be the only one walking the dog until more training for all family members takes place. <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">ü<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Be sure to go over body language, social cues & what-if situations with your child prior to allowing him/her to take on this responsibility. </span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">ü</span><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Train now, don't wait for an incident to occur that makes you realize that you must now train the dog and the child how to understand all that involves walking a dog. <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">ü<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Take your child with you when you go for a walk and slowly build up where s/he can take full control of the leash, gradually increasing the distance walked while they are in full control. Once your child has built up confidence, you can start to hang back a little bit and observe how s/he does. (Stay close behind!) <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo4; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">ü<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">You should ask your child probing questions about what they would do in challenging situations, such as if another dog approaches. It's important to try and prepare them as best you can so they aren't startled if something unusual should happen.<o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">ü<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Make sure you always remind them what a big responsibility it is to walk the dog and that they must always pay attention to what is going on around them. No cell phones or distractions during the walk. (Hey this should apply to you too, adults!) <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo4; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">ü<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">As a general rule, kids under 14 years of age, should always be accompanied by an able-bodied adult when walking a dog. Some kids 10 or older may be able to do this depending on many of the factors listed above as well as maturity level of the child, physical abilities and confidence level with walking the dog. <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">ü<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">As a general rule kids under the age of 10 years old should <i><u>never</u></i> be in possession of the dog's leash (when a dog is attached to it) without an adult either holding a 2nd leash attached to the dog at the same time, or adult holding the end of the leash while child holds the middle of the leash. <!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--> <!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><br />
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; font-size: 12pt;">ü<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">Kids should be taught proper leash holding skills, training skills, how to read canine body language and what to do in certain scenarios that may come up while out on a walk with the dog. A trained professional is recommended to help with this process.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZbQ-lzJRIM4/W4gAoq4AjgI/AAAAAAAA9qY/-TbFbmAdA_YWRrhJ3L4dlTl1Fp-_pyzBwCLcBGAs/s1600/TheFamilyDog_logo.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1228" data-original-width="1096" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZbQ-lzJRIM4/W4gAoq4AjgI/AAAAAAAA9qY/-TbFbmAdA_YWRrhJ3L4dlTl1Fp-_pyzBwCLcBGAs/s200/TheFamilyDog_logo.png" width="178" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"><b> </b></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"><b>The most ideal situation would be to go walking as a family unit and make it an activity everyone gets involved in and enjoys! </b>Take a training class or better, have a trainer come to your home to work one-on-one with your family to show everyone how to work with and train your dog. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"><b> </b></span> <span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"><b>There are great training programs that are taught by licensed Private Trainers through <a href="http://www.thefamilydog.com/" target="_blank">The Family Dog</a></b></span><b><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;"><a href="http://www.thefamilydog.com/" target="_blank">™</a> </span><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">and their training programs for families and dogs.</span></b></div>
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<b style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -0.25in;"> </b> <b style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -0.25in;">Most children under 14 wouldn't be safe walking the dog alone </b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -0.25in;">[without an able-bodied adult],</span><b style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -0.25in;"> especially when considering all possibilities and scenarios that could arise. </b><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -0.25in;">However, this isn't going to be the same for all families and kids, so this is why training and good judgment calls are important when deciding and allowing kids to walk the dog alone. <b>No child under the age of 10 should walk a dog alone at any time.</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-71nrX20aef0/W4f_kpKvPCI/AAAAAAAA9qU/PIWlUkrlgjIqpifRfaQ-IEj8s3jrqGX7ACEwYBhgL/s1600/family_walking_dog_in_woods.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="788" data-original-width="1400" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-71nrX20aef0/W4f_kpKvPCI/AAAAAAAA9qU/PIWlUkrlgjIqpifRfaQ-IEj8s3jrqGX7ACEwYBhgL/s320/family_walking_dog_in_woods.jpg" width="320" /></a><b style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13.3333px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"><b>The bottom line is that your dog should be reliably trained to walk with a loose leash and be able to be controlled both physically and verbally by the person holding the leash. </b>This person should also be able to act swiftly if an unforeseen circumstance were to arise.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; text-align: center;"><b><span style="background-color: transparent; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></span></b></span> <span style="background-color: transparent; text-align: center;"> <span style="background-color: transparent; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></span> <span style="background-color: transparent; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;">The person holding the leash should be able to take quick action if/when needed to ensure safety for all parties. So,<b style="font-weight: bold;"> find a great trainer to help you and your family learn all you need to for dog safety when walking as well as how to gain great leash skills and loose leash walking with your dog.</b></span></span></span> <span style="background-color: transparent; text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12pt;"><b style="font-weight: bold;"> </b></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;">------------------</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;"><b>Stacy Greer, CPDT-KA</b> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: small;">licensed <a href="https://www.familypaws.com/" target="_blank">Family Paws Parent Educator</a> </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: small;">& Private Trainer with </span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.thefamilydog.com/" target="_blank"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #444444;">The Family Dog</span><span style="background-color: transparent;">™</span></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;">Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior</span></b></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;">servicing the Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas metroplex</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #4d469c;"><a href="http://sunshinedog.com/">sunshinedog.com</a></span></span></span></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-37629850058537127102018-07-22T23:14:00.004-05:002018-07-25T20:03:52.014-05:00"He loves to be petted!" ... or does he?!<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-r05TYcmH3yI/Wwcdwu7sIZI/AAAAAAAA9TY/kRnjsKNYtAg9vXHxHjKBKwzAZy5b3cCAACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-r05TYcmH3yI/Wwcdwu7sIZI/AAAAAAAA9TY/kRnjsKNYtAg9vXHxHjKBKwzAZy5b3cCAACLcBGAs/s200/IMG_0558.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">I just recently posted this picture of my kids rubbing the belly of a dog that belongs to our chiropractor in Grapevine, Texas on my Facebook timeline. <i>(Little plug for the wonderful Dr. Janelle Whitehead at <a href="http://www.alphawellnesscenter.com/index.php?p=176473" target="_blank">Alpha Wellness Center</a>.)</i></span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I captioned the picture on my timeline with this:</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> <i><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129;">Our chiropractor has an office greeter. </span><span class="_5mfr _47e3" style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; line-height: 0; margin: 0px 1px; vertical-align: middle;"><span class="_7oe" style="display: inline-block; width: 0px;">🙌🏼</span></span></i><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129;"><i>DOG TRAINING NOTE: Jango came over to us first and “asked” to be pet. We always wait for dogs to initiate interaction!</i></span></span></span></span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I had a wonderful past client comment with a fabulous question -- <i>Just for my knowledge, how will they ask?</i> -- Which prompted me to write this post. <b>It may very well be one of the most important things we teach others, especially children [of all ages]: How to tell if the dog wants to be petted or given attention to.</b></span></span><br />
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</b> <b>So, how <i>do</i> we know that dogs actually want to be approached, petted or given attention to?</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">We learn to read the dog, first and foremost. While most people can read obvious signals that a dog is uncomfortable -- ears back, tail tucked, hiding behind their owner, head lowered -- many people cannot read more subtle signals that will add up to a reaction of some kind if they aren't observed and respected.</span><br />
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</span> <b><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND</span></b></span><br />
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<li><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Not all dogs like being petted. </b>Yup. Sorry to burst your bubble but it's true. Some may even be fine just hanging out with you or near strangers but this doesn't necessarily equate to them wanting to be petted by you or strangers.<br />
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<li><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Some dogs like to be near you but aren't into physical interaction.</b> There are some dogs that are friendly and totally fine with humans and hanging out, but they don't like physical touch by others. Some dogs like limited physical touch but not much, or often.<br />
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<li><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Dogs may have a random schedule of when they like to be petted</b>, and it likely will change often. Some dogs like being petted at certain times but not others. There is likely no real pattern or schedule here just like you may have a day where you would rather not talk to other people or socialize and other days you're ready to be invited to a party.<br />
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<li><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Your dog may absolutely love to be petted by you but not strangers.</b> They may also prefer one person to another in the same household. In other words, your dog may be picky with whom she prefers petting from.<br />
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<li><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Some dogs may be totally fine with adults but not children.</b> Children appear, sound and move differently than adults do. This is especially true with crawling babies, toddlers, and younger kids. Due to this fact, some dogs are not keen on some kids being near them let alone being petted by them.</span></li>
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<b><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">HOW DO YOU KNOW WHEN THE ABOVE APPLY?</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">It's important to understand how to read subtle body language and cues given off by dogs when interacting and/or attempting to interact with them. This is critical for you to teach your kids, especially when they see and/or approach a dog they are not familiar with.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">VIDEO WITH BREAKDOWN OF CUES/BODY LANGUAGE</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://youtu.be/jU4TKzBOzw4" target="_blank">Here</a> is an excellent <a href="https://youtu.be/jU4TKzBOzw4" target="_blank">video</a> from <a href="http://www.dogcharming.com.au/" target="_blank">Dog Charming</a> based out of Austraila on this topic with many wonderful tips, points and dogs being pet for clarification. I recommend you watch this with your kids and discuss what they show and discuss in <a href="https://youtu.be/jU4TKzBOzw4" target="_blank">the video</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="260" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jU4TKzBOzw4" width="505"></iframe><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>SO, NOW WHAT?!</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">Now you have a little more knowledge on dog body language and cues to read when and/if a dog wants to be pet or not. Let's understand what to do now when you encounter an unfamiliar dog. For the sake of this blog not becoming much longer, the dogs I am referring to are dogs that have an owner with them or possibly not right by them but near-by. This does not refer to strange dogs on the streets, with no known owner or that is a possible stray.</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>WHEN YOU ENCOUNTER AN UNFAMILIAR DOG</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">The first rule is to take a look at the dog's body language ...</span><br />
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<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Do you see any signs that the dog does <u>not</u> want to be pet</b> (re-watch the video above if you need to!)? <b>If yes, then leave the dog alone</b> and continue on. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>If the dog approaches you and seems to want your affection or attention remember these rules:</b></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Do <u>not</u> pet a dog over/on top of the dog's head</b>, most dog's do <u>not</u> like this.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Do <u>not</u> put your hand in a dog's face for it to sniff it.</b> Instead, slowly <b>offer an open palm for them to sniff, hanging your hand low & below the dog's chin-level </b>or off to the side of the dog's body (as opposed to directly in front.)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>After the dog sniffs you may pet it under the chin or on the side of the neck/body.</b></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">When a dog is friendly & clearly likes/wants to be pet be sure you don't allow your kids to hug or kiss the dog, <i><u>ever</u></i>. <b>Strange dogs are <u>never</u> to be hugged or kissed by kids </b>(um, or adults!).</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Make your pet-session with a strange dog brief (3-5 seconds).</b> If the dog clearly wants more petting (remember the signs from the video), you may do 3-5 more seconds. Do not linger too long, some dogs do like petting but only briefly.</span></li>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>A GREAT VIDEO TO WATCH WITH KIDS!</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">This video is brought to you by the great folks at <a href="http://www.thefamilydog.com/" target="_blank">The Family Dog</a> & <a href="http://stopthe77.com/">stopthe77.com</a>. Great fun for the whole family to watch & learn from this one!</span></div>
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<iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VPEwHhXF6pU" width="560"></iframe><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zj2-p1MMQXA/W1VaSOCS27I/AAAAAAAA9kQ/gT05vstzVKAjWru46pUpNXrMGqv9acq2QCLcBGAs/s1600/girl_reading_to_dog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="381" data-original-width="547" height="138" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zj2-p1MMQXA/W1VaSOCS27I/AAAAAAAA9kQ/gT05vstzVKAjWru46pUpNXrMGqv9acq2QCLcBGAs/s200/girl_reading_to_dog.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>RESOURCES & TIPS </b></span></div>
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Teach yourself and your kids how to read dogs.</b> Now, re-learn doggie body language. Don't forget the subtle signs, there are many of these we often miss. <b>Reading body language is everything.</b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Don't feel bad if you have to walk away from a dog that the owner states is ok when you see otherwise. </b>Sadly, even well-meaning dog owners often don't know the signs their dog is giving off.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Always read the dog first</b>, don't pet or approach based on the dog owner's suggestions or advice.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Visit, download and/or purchase some of these wonderful resources:</b></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">The wonderful trainers, programs &<b> also some free resources through <a href="http://www.thefamilydog.com/" target="_blank">The Family Dog</a> & their sister site <a href="http://stopthe77.com/">stopthe77.com</a></b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Colleen Pelar's <a href="https://yourfamilydogpodcast.podbean.com/e/006-teaching-kids-how-to-meet-a-dog/" target="_blank">"Teaching Kids How to Meet a Dog"</a> podcast</b>. This is a downloadable podcast that you can listen to anywhere you have a phone, tablet or computer. <a href="https://yourfamilydogpodcast.podbean.com/e/006-teaching-kids-how-to-meet-a-dog/" target="_blank">Download podcast here</a>.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>My <a href="https://www.sunshinedog.com/resources" target="_blank">resources page</a> on my website has a lot of PDF downloads with pictures, illustrations & recommended books too</b>. Please <a href="https://www.sunshinedog.com/resources" target="_blank">vist that page here</a>.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Doggone Crazy has some excellent <a href="http://doggonecrazy.ca/shop-usa/" target="_blank">downloads</a> for kids & parents</b> to go over together. You may <a href="http://doggonecrazy.ca/shop-usa/" target="_blank">visit their site here</a> for e-books & flashcards.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b><a href="http://www.vetbehaviourteam.com/client-handouts/" target="_blank">The Vet Behaviour Team</a> also has some of my very favorite downloadable (free) illustrations of various signs of stress in dogs.</b> You can <a href="http://www.vetbehaviourteam.com/client-handouts/" target="_blank">get those here</a>.</span></li>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>IN CONCLUSION</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">Brush up on your doggie body language skills, go over it with your kids and respect the dog's cues. <b> A dog will always "tell" you when they want to be petted and when they don't ... so be sure to "listen" when they do no matter what anyone else says.</b></span></div>
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<div style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">
<b>Stacy Greer</b></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">
<b>Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior</b></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">
servicing the Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas metroplex</div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://sunshinedog.com/" style="color: #4d469c; text-decoration-line: none;">sunshinedog.com</a><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Copyright© 2018. All rights reserved.</span></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-64373511860973341862018-06-27T11:55:00.004-05:002023-07-24T14:46:09.371-05:00Stop puppy biting & nipping for good!<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U8YNiWoOJ-U/WzPA8seTFLI/AAAAAAAA9hU/8AcMqyA05i8u3cyJ0oZSur6agxHNgEzJQCLcBGAs/s1600/boxer_puppy_mouthing.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="133" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U8YNiWoOJ-U/WzPA8seTFLI/AAAAAAAA9hU/8AcMqyA05i8u3cyJ0oZSur6agxHNgEzJQCLcBGAs/s200/boxer_puppy_mouthing.jpg" width="200" /></a><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Does your puppy nip or bite at you in some way with those awfully sharp puppy teeth?! Ouch! They are like shark teeth! </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>First, you should know — this is very normal puppy behavior. </b>I get many emails stating their puppy is “aggressive” and usually, it’s just puppy nipping gone a little over the top. </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Puppies use their mouths and teeth because well ... they are puppies. <b>Puppies aren't technically “teething” until around 16 weeks of age</b> and then it goes on until around 7-8 months of age. This is when those uber sharp teeth start to fall out and they get their adult teeth. While canine teeth are sharp anyway, the adult teeth aren’t quite as sharp. </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>WHY DOES MY PUPPY BITE ME?!</b></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">There are a few reasons why puppies bite, which can be some or all of the following:</span></div>
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<li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">They are not receiving proper training & outlets for energy.</span></li>
<li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">They are over-stimulated & need some downtime (explained below)</span></li>
<li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">They see it as a game (usually unintentionally taught)</span></li>
<li><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">They are young puppies, it’s what they do!</span></li>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>HOW DO I STOP IT?!</b></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">First, it’s important to remember that your puppy is a clean slate of nothing. They are sponges and will absorb any and all behaviors whether you are intentionally teaching them or not! So this is when training becomes vital because you can control your puppy’s </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">behaviors with proper training and direction.</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Most puppies are over-stimulated/aroused by the time the nipping/biting has gotten out of hand. On top of that the common reaction to the biting causes it to escalate (whoops!). So there are several things that I recommend and this will curb it dramatically, if not stop it altogether.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><style type="text/css"> p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica} </style> <span><span style="font-family: "helvetica";">➡</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica";"> </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>Don’t allow your puppy to become over-stimulated. </b>Free time should be in short bursts when puppies are between 8-16 weeks of age. Each week you can increase the time they have freedom. By this I mean all time out of a crate or safe area (x-pen set up for puppy) should be short and productive. </span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PpLG9k5O2X4/WzO-nnMcR5I/AAAAAAAA9hI/Y45pbnKvHHMsTcrm1lCh81FctYcyZ4-xACLcBGAs/s1600/Puppy-with-ball-579152814_2100x1500.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1143" data-original-width="1600" height="142" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PpLG9k5O2X4/WzO-nnMcR5I/AAAAAAAA9hI/Y45pbnKvHHMsTcrm1lCh81FctYcyZ4-xACLcBGAs/s200/Puppy-with-ball-579152814_2100x1500.jpeg" width="200" /></span></a><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">I like to have a puppy out for only 20 minutes at a time in the beginning (8-10 weeks of age, increase that time as puppy gets older). In those 20 minutes I get a potty break, training session, play session, potty break and then it’s back into the safe place for nap time. Puppies need lots and lots of sleep! (For details on what the training session consists of stay tuned). </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">When having the puppy actively engaged they cannot be finding ways to bite and chew things that aren’t appropriate. So after potty break I work on several things — mat work, name recognition, positive interrupter, coming when called — to start. Then I play in between with a toy — a ball, a tug rope or a puzzle toy for puppy to engage in. Then back to potty and back to the crate for some downtime.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span style="font-family: "helvetica";">➡</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica";"> </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>When puppy does start to nip/bite, if it's gentle nipping, I simply re-direct puppy to an appropriate toy/bone. </b></span></span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Stuffed toys rarely do the trick, I usually recommend to redirect to an antler, buffalo horn, bully stick or something else that will keep puppy occupied. The key is that what you redirect to should be able to keep puppy engaged and not have him redirect back to you. If the latter happens then remove puppy and put him in his safe place for downtime (see next bullet point). </span><span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><i>Nylabone</i></span></span><i><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">® </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">makes many great chewables for puppies, you may <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/inn7f8k33k4rwx0/Recommended%20Chewies%20%26%20Play%20Toys%20%282018%29.pdf?dl=0" target="_blank">download my puppy chew toy handout here</a></span></i><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> or chewie works best as they will stay more engaged with one of these instead of redirecting back to you.</span><br />
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</b></span></span> <span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span style="font-family: "helvetica";">➡</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica";"> </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>If puppy is biting really hard (or they are feisty, spunky & over-aroused)</b></span><b>, I immediately, gently and quietly, put them away in their crate/safe area.</b> It's important to note that you should not be saying anything but just simply pick up puppy and place him in his safe area/crate. If that isn’t possible I put <i>myself</i> into a room, close door behind me. With puppies the latter could be a bit disastrous due to chewing and potty, if puppy is really young. So I prefer the first suggestion, re: putting away puppy. It’s <i><u>not</u></i> a punishment and should not be used as one. It’s just putting them away to let them know you will not engage with them when they do this, as well as to put them in downtime as this is usually what is needed. Usually, I leave puppy in downtime until he’s totally relaxed and calm. Sometimes they will pass out and take a nap. So I just leave them until they wake up.</span></span></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica";">➡</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica";"> </span><b>When kids are getting bitten — parents must pro-active & actively be involved.</b> Immediately follow the steps in the above suggestion. You can also teach your kids to Be A Tree if they are 3+ years of age, sometimes 4+ years is better. The child literally stands still, doesn’t move, hands to their side and head down facing the floor. Puppies won’t engage with a tree!</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica";">➡</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica";"> </span><b>Do not play with puppy using hands</b>, i.e. allowing puppy to chew on hands sometimes yet not at others. This teaches puppy that hands are chew toys and puppy will carry this over to all humans, not just the one doing the play this way. Puppy play should always involve a toy or appropriate chew. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>Puppies are challenging! But they can easily be trained and managed when done properly. </b> I highly recommend hiring a trainer to come into your home and show you and your family how to properly handle, train and manage your puppy and his antics! It is so beneficial and you’ll learn so much!</span><br />
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</span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><span style="background-color: yellow;">UPDATE</span>:</b> I have a video webinar I did on this topic with a schedule of what to do with your puppy to keep biting at a low or non-existent state! <a href="https://www.sunshinedog.com/videos" target="_blank">Watch my free webinar here</a>.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: small;">Stacy Greer, CPDT-KA</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small;">Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC</span></b></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-71163970169098873602018-06-18T14:30:00.004-05:002021-10-01T10:08:07.428-05:00Loose Leash Walking: How to stop leash pulling.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>Loose Leash Walking (LLW) is where a dog walks with a loose leash, no tension, and is under control without force but by choice.</b> Usually, I prefer the dog walking on the handler’s left but not tightly next to the handler, just with a nice relaxed leash for a leisurely walk.</span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">Many, many, many dog owners would do anything to have a dog that doesn’t pull them down the street when they walk them.</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">To add to this there are loads of “tools” on the market today to appeal to dog owners. These <b>tools are marketed in such a way that makes a dog owner feel like it will be a magic trick that helps the dog stop pulling. Rarely is this true.</b> There are tools that definitely help with control and training but there is no tool that will magically train a dog to stop pulling. <b>The tool that does that is you, the dog owner.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></b></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>I won’t lie, if you are using reward-based training to train loose leash walking with your dog you’ll have to put in some work to achieve this. </b> This is definitely my method of training and I don’t recommend other methods as they have a huge possibility of fallout. I’ll not go into that here, but suffice it to say I don’t use metal, electronic or correction collars to train a dog to stop pulling on the leash (or anything else for that matter). </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">By "you'll have to put in some work" I mean you’ll have to commit to working on this daily. I also suggest you don't walk your dog <i>unless</i> you're going to be training him. Set him up to succeed. If he can pull you, he will, and this will set your training back. So, set a plan and stick to it. I laid out a plan to follow below ... keep reading ... </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS</b></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>1) WHY DO DOGS PULL, IS HE TRYING TO BE DOMINANT?!</b> Dogs pull because they can, it’s rewarding (Hey! She keeps going forward, in the same direction even if I pull!), and the behavior becomes rewarded unintentionally. </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">A dog that pulls isn’t trying to “be in charge” or any other silly nonsense. It’s just pulling because it’s not been trained to walk next to you when on a leash. It’s just that simple.</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>2) BUT SHE’S CHOKING ON HER OWN COLLAR, SHOULDN’T SHE STOP PULLING IF SHE’S CHOKING HERSELF?!</b> Dogs don’t care, really. The walk is rewarding enough that they will continue to move forward unless given a really good reason not to. So, they won’t teach themselves not to pull even if they are hacking up a lung by pulling against their collar/harness/leash.</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>3) HE’LL STOP WHEN I JERK HIS COLLAR BUT THEN HE’LL GO BACK TO PULLING. WHY?!</b> This is why training your dog what to do instead of pull, rather than tell him to stop pulling, is more effective and better in the long run, than using corrections.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>4) SHE WAS WALKING REALLY WELL THEN SHE SAW ANOTHER DOG & WENT NUTS!</b> This is a bit of another category of loose leash. In short — more training and likely some specialized training is in order here for how to teach your dog to respond when they see distractions/triggers. So,<i> if your dog goes beyond just needing some leash manners, please seek a qualified person to help you with any leash reactivity or over-reactivity to certain triggers.</i></span><br />
<b style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></b> <b style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">5) WHAT IF I HAVE TWO DOGS?</b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"> If you have more than one dog you have to train each dog individually in order to achieve LLW with each of them. Yes, that's not usually what dog owners want to hear but to achieve the best results, and prevent you from losing your mind, you'll want to do all of the following with each dog you want to teach this to. </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>SO, HOW DO I GET MY DOG TO STOP PULLING?!<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></b></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OqW8hahTT2w/Wyf9KfPMqNI/AAAAAAAA9fQ/2WWy2Qh69QwvIkONVQzGO77tr7_jZMMSgCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-18%2Bat%2B1.42.15%2BPM.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="502" height="198" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OqW8hahTT2w/Wyf9KfPMqNI/AAAAAAAA9fQ/2WWy2Qh69QwvIkONVQzGO77tr7_jZMMSgCLcBGAs/s200/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-06-18%2Bat%2B1.42.15%2BPM.png" width="200" /></span></a><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>1) BUILD ENGAGEMENT & FOCUS.</b> This should start out <i>inside</i> not out on the leash where all the things in the world are for them to see and sniff. </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">Start by rewarding your dog (with food) when they look at you. Have them walk next to you, all around your home and when they engage with you, or offer eye contact, reward them. Increase the criteria by then taking the dog outside and doing it there. Namely, in the backyard, then the front yard, then down the street, and so on. Here is a small video of what I start dogs doing inside the house. — <a href="https://youtu.be/xCbABDDcx38">https://youtu.be/xCbABDDcx38</a><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">Also, here is a video on some of the same things in the above video but in under a minute! — <a href="https://youtu.be/1bOl7mFsK20">https://youtu.be/1bOl7mFsK20</a></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">Practice time: 4-5 x day for 2-3 weeks, 2-10 minutes each time.</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>2) WORK ON LEASH SKILLS WITHOUT A DOG!</b> Yup. You need to learn about leashes, equipment and the like without your dog. Then once you have this down, you can start with your dog. I made a video going over a few leash tips and a couple of harnesses I like. It’s not extensive, in regards to the different harnesses, but it has some good leash info! — <a href="https://youtu.be/l3wuJ-TOQPg">https://youtu.be/l3wuJ-TOQPg</a> </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><i>For more info on more harnesses to choose from read this review of harnesses from The Whole Dog Journal. — <a href="http://bit.ly/2t83qGe">http://bit.ly/2t83qGe</a></i></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">Practice time: 1 x a day for 3 consecutive days, get a feel for the leash.</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>3) WORK ON LEASH SKILLS INSIDE YOUR HOME.</b> Use your engagement exercises and practice them indoors, without distractions. As shown in one of my videos above, this one — <a href="https://youtu.be/xCbABDDcx38">https://youtu.be/xCbABDDcx38</a> — you should do the exercises in this video but with a leash on now.</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">Practice time: 3 x a day for 2 weeks, 10-15 minutes each time.</span><br />
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</span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>4) TAKE IT TO THE STREETS!</b> Now step outside of your home. This might be a driveway or a sidewalk or a breezeway, depending on where you live but don’t go far, esp if your dog is highly distracted. Start with low-level distractions, work on the engagement exercises above that you’ve now done without a leash indoors and then indoors with a leash. Now add in a cue to tell your dog he should stick with you. I like to use "Let's go!". This tells my dog I'm about to walk and she better be walking with me. I start to walk and on we go. </span></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>5) REWARD THOSE CHECK-INS & GIVE FEEDBACK!</b> I see the most common mistake people make is rewarding too little, not enough and missing moments when to do so. Feed, feed, feed your dog when they check in with you on a leash. Walking next to you, loose leash and then they turn to look up at you — "YES!" Now, feed, feed, feed that! In between those feedings give <i>verbal feedback. All. The. Time.</i> "Good boy. That's a good boy!"</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>6) WHAT IF HE PULLS ONCE WE ARE OUTSIDE?!</b> So if your dog does forge ahead, just pivot and do a u-turn in the opposite direction. Wait for Fido to catch up to you on your left side, then reward as he returns to your side. I discuss this in <a href="https://youtu.be/xCbABDDcx38" target="_blank">my video above</a> with my Beagle, Charlotte in my kitchen. You should actually be doing a lot of turns and moving in other directions when working on leash skills. If you stay in a straight line you'll go mad. This helps teach your dog to turn with you/when you're turning and to stay in tune with you. </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>7) REWARD LIKE MAD!</b> (Can't express this one enough.) Take a lot of great food with you. A. LOT. Once I hit the streets, or outdoors, with leash work I take boiled chicken, hot dog pieces, cubes of cheese, etc. My dog gets some major yummy stuff for paying attention to me when on a leash in distracting environments. Do not be stingy with the food or rewards. Maybe feed your dog only half, or less, of her normal meal that day and feed a ton when she's working with you. </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://youtu.be/GCzXAJS8_lo" target="_blank">Here is a video</a> of me with a Dobie I'm working with at my house for leash work. Notice how much food I give him, when I reward him. I give him about 5-7 little pieces, one at a time while we are walking and while he's paying attention to me.</span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p1tK-84i6xk/WygH9J5FdYI/AAAAAAAA9fc/pYnMB69O05AlMTgtBUYZ1PtW3e5VcCuBACLcBGAs/s1600/wire_doxie_leash_work.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" data-original-height="447" data-original-width="500" height="178" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p1tK-84i6xk/WygH9J5FdYI/AAAAAAAA9fc/pYnMB69O05AlMTgtBUYZ1PtW3e5VcCuBACLcBGAs/s200/wire_doxie_leash_work.jpg" width="200" /></span></a><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>8) SLOW & STEADY WINS THE RACE.</b> Take it slow. Make your sessions short and don't go far at first. Actually, I really don't go anywhere. I stick to my little cul-de-sac in front of my house then slowly move past that after the dog has gotten more reliable on a loose leash. I slowly add in goals like: tomorrow we can go 2 houses down, perhaps by the end of the week we can go 4 houses down! </span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><b>IN CONCLUSION ... FOR NOW ... </b>Right now this is all I'm going to give you. These are just beginning steps to get your dog to walk nicely on a leash. It all starts to fall into place after you do these things but you have to start here. For more info on how to proceed with more distractions, what to do when your dog stops paying attention to you on a leash and more troubleshooting when walking your dog ... stay tuned!</span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Stacy Greer</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC</span></b></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-603549062817811802018-04-12T15:29:00.004-05:002022-03-19T17:16:22.242-05:00🤯 I never give my dog human food!! 🤯<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>"Oh we never feed him human food!"</b> ... I cannot tell you how often I hear this. It's kind of an interesting thing to hear, really, if you think about it. What exactly does it mean when someone says this? Usually, I hear it in the context of boasting more like "oh my dog doesn't beg because we <i>never</i> feed human food to him, ever, <i>never, ever!</i>" Sometimes I hear it with a statement of disdain if I whip out some pieces of chicken to use when high-value rewards are more beneficial for our training. Sometimes I hear it in a bragging-type tone when their dog is in good shape as if this is the reason why. However, there are a few myths surrounding the use of "human food" with regards to giving it to our pet dogs.</span><br />
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</span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Whatever the reason this is stated, I think this phrase should be explored a bit. Let's go over some things regarding this often heard statement ...</span><br />
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</span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">First, "human food" is subjective. I mean what exactly does this constitute? Food only "humans" eat like orange juice, Tootsie Rolls, Doritos, Fruit Loops or Thanksgiving turkey? I mean we wouldn't feed <i>those</i> things to our dogs, right? <b>But, really, what is "human food"?! If we want to get into semantics all living animals (including humans) eat the same food, with a variation of some or all of the following: meat, plants, grains, veggies and fruits.</b> All living creatures eat some or all of those types of foods. Dog food, while highly processed, has some type of protein in it and plant and/or grains/carbohydrates of some kind, usually rice or sweet potatoes -- which <i>are</i> "human foods", right?!</span><br />
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</span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">However, I get it. When people proudly state this to others they aren't really thinking of it in the way that I am. I understand that they are often saying when they are eating their meal they don't feed it to their dog off of their plate. I mean, usually, this is what they mean. By not feeding a dog off of their plate they often feel like this will eliminate things such as: begging behaviors, food snatching and obesity. I understand the desire to have a dog not beg or grab food or get overweight -- definitely goals most dog owners would love to achieve!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>As a note, dogs don't beg because we feed them "human food". They beg because of the associations they make during certain circumstances.</b> Your dog would beg if you fed him any kind of food or treat or reward to him. The <i>type of food</i> is irrelevant. What causes begging behaviors is the association your dog makes. For example, if you feed your dog while you sit at the dinner table and eat your dinner then your dog will learn when mom eats I get food. Therefore, your dog will learn I shall sit next to mom while she eats and wait for food. If I wait long enough she'll give me a few pieces. This is classical conditioning at it's finest. At the same time, if you sit on your bed and eat your lunch and sometimes feed Fido then your dog will learn to beg when you're sitting on your bed. It's all the same. But you could be feeding Saltine crackers or you could be feeding pieces of dog food or pieces of your sandwich. It's all rewards to the dog. It's all teaching your dog that if/when they beg they will get fed. So, "human food" isn't really the problem.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>As for food grabbing or stealing, this is usually just a self-taught behavior and not necessarily prompted by any type of food or treat.</b> It works the same way as the begging -- an association is made and a behavior is born. If your dog steals "human food" from say your countertops then your dog has self-rewarded and learned that the counters produce yummy things. This usually develops into a behavior we label as counter-surfing. Again, as with begging, the type of food is irrelevant. Heck, some dogs steal pens or paper or even knives and take off with those and find this behavior so rewarding that they learn to counter-surf that way. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Most often <i>the act of</i> <i>stealing</i> is rewarding enough in itself that the dog will continue to do so. Therefore, since stealing is self-rewarded so it becomes a pretty challenging habit to break. I do have a lovely blog post on <a href="https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2017/04/counter-surfing-solved.html" target="_blank">how to solve counter-surfing here</a>. Some dogs steal right out of trash cans or even worse -- right out of people's hands! I see the last behavior commonly with small kids because they are easy targets. These behaviors can be solved with training but again, "human food" isn't the issue here.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>"Human food" as part of a meal or as a meal. </b> <br />Honestly, this is the best move you could make for your dog. "Human food" is a zillion times healthier than highly processed dog food. Without going into full diet discussion, adding some meat, yogurt, fish or eggs to your dog's food is hugely beneficial to your dog. Healthwise, "human food" is good for your dog depending on what exactly you are using as "human food" to give to your dog as a diet or addition to the diet. Adding any food to your dog's diet can cause obesity if given the wrong amount. Some foods, of course, are fattier than others, however, obesity is not caused by the type of food alone. <b> </b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b><br /></b></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>Overweight dogs, medical issues aside, are overfed plain and simple, usually more dogs fed kibble are overweight than those fed home-prepared (cooked or raw food) diets.</b> So, if "human food" is a cause of concern for your dog's weight then you just need to research a little more on what and how much to feed to benefit your dog. I do highly recommend the book "<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Raw-Natural-Nutrition-Dogs-Revised/dp/158394947X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523564352&sr=8-1&keywords=raw+and+natural+nutrition+for+dogs+by+lew+olson" target="_blank">Raw & Natural Nutrition for Dogs</a>" by Lew Olson if you'd like to learn more about canine diets. You may also download <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/w4mjt4kuncgnbmn/Dog%20Diet%20%282018%29.pdf?dl=0" target="_blank">my diet handout here.</a></span><br />
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</span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Now, <b>in relation to training ... "human food" can be highly valuable.</b> Depending on what you're working on and where, high-value foods such as boiled chicken, freeze-dried liver, cheese and hot dogs can be a big help in a training program. I always recommend some type of "human food" for recall training and training in distractions. Dogs aren't going to come to you off-leash in a park if you are offering Kibbles 'n Bits. Yuck. Fido would rather chase squirrels. However, give your dog a big incentive like coming to tidbits of chicken and you'll strengthen your dog's recall really quickly!</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>So, in conclusion, human food isn't the cause of behaviors your dog may be exhibiting and it's not horrible for your dog to eat if you are feeding the right types of food. </b>Also, many human foods are much healthier for your dog than commercial dog food! (<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/w4mjt4kuncgnbmn/Dog%20Diet%20%282018%29.pdf?dl=0" target="_blank">You may read my diet handout here.</a>) In training we often recommend using "human foods" for working with high distractions and to get some behaviors more reliable. It can be valuable in training when used at the correct times. So, "human food" isn't your enemy -- learn to use it wisely!</span></span><br />
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<b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">Stacy Greer</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC</span></b></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-55756321958501797372018-03-28T14:52:00.001-05:002022-06-06T09:39:18.154-05:00I think he was abused ...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>"I think he was abused ..." is one of the most common phrases I hear before or after a dog exhibits a behavior and said dog has been adopted and has an unknown or clear history. </b> While there are different types of abuse for dogs, </span><i style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">most</i><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"> people are referring to physical abuse when they make this statement.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>I need to let you in on a secret, most likely your dog wasn't physically abused. </b>You may actually be saying, "ok, but does it really matter?" Actually, yes, it does. <b>I find that most dog owners who think their dog was physically abused are either far too soft on them, don't implement proper rules and boundaries, and/or coddle the dog a lot.</b> Also, they don't get far in training because they have a lot of excuses related to the supposed abuse or past they believe the dog had. Some people do all or some of those things when they think this is true and the problem is that it affects the dog dramatically. It can affect the dog's behavior and ability to learn and develop.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">First, yes, <b><i>sometimes</i> this is the case. There are definite cases of abuse. I'm not saying this is <i>never</i> the case</b> ... but ... it's not usually the case when I'm seeing dogs that are labeled as such. Also, when the dog is labeled as possibly being a victim of abuse they usually are referring to physical abuse.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>The most common answer to behaviors that dogs exhibit and people associate with physical abuse is actually a lack of exposure and socialization.</b> Dogs that are afraid of men, sounds, objects, places -- those don't necessarily mean they have been abused, but rather they have not been properly socialized and/or exposed properly to these things.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>Also, genetics play a huge role in behavior. I think we often overlook this incredibly important fact.</b> Two insanely insecure and scaredy-cat dogs that have offspring aren't going to produce confident and happy-go-lucky pups. Genetics, they can be a real bitch at times!</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">I like to explain this to people because there is a stigma around their dogs when they think one thing or another is a "reason for" something. The truth is that we just need to work with the dog. <b>These "she was abused" </b></span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>labels are a huge reason people start to anthropomorphize their dog<i> — put human traits on something that isn't human.</i></b> This is where things get muddy with dog behavior ... when we can't see the forest for the trees. </span></span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>The best thing to do is find out what your dog's behavior is like right now.</b> Is he shy? Fearful? Anxious? Aggressive? Aloof? <b>Once you find this out then we just go from there. </b>The protocol to help the dog through any of this is the same no matter why the dog is the way that it is. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">I use Classical Conditioning and Desensitization for most cases like this as well as Operant Conditioning. We basically change the dog's current emotional response to something and make it a different, usually, more appropriate and acceptable response. This usually means something like a dog that's afraid of a broom is taught that brooms are ok. We pair good things with the sight of the broom, starting at a distance where the broom doesn't cause too much stress. We go at the rate the dog is comfortable working and while we are making steady progress, so as not to see any regression, if possible. Then it just goes from there. (If this is similar to something your dog needs help with please locate a trainer near you.)</span></span><br /><br />
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<b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" />Stacy Greer</span></b></div>
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<b>Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC</b></div>
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<style type="text/css"> p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 13.0px 'Helvetica Neue'} </style><style type="text/css"> p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 13.0px 'Helvetica Neue'} </style>The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-32908953527466646182018-03-14T11:21:00.001-05:002019-07-13T19:40:47.930-05:00Boundaries & Freedom<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YI1N0QcEcWQ/WYHuRbX641I/AAAAAAAAi5A/MwDnh0a_-mY8K_hZwpC5VYDViIWEBApGQCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/dog-gate-pet-fence-baby-safety-indoor-wide-adjustable-walk-thru-door-barrier-new-3022f617262ba69f85f5d68d8d6eb943.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="398" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YI1N0QcEcWQ/WYHuRbX641I/AAAAAAAAi5A/MwDnh0a_-mY8K_hZwpC5VYDViIWEBApGQCPcBGAYYCw/s200/dog-gate-pet-fence-baby-safety-indoor-wide-adjustable-walk-thru-door-barrier-new-3022f617262ba69f85f5d68d8d6eb943.jpg" width="158" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I get a lot of emails about dogs that are destroying things in the home or aren't "listening" or grabbing things while the family eats ... many things that could be solved with some solid boundary-setting and training.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: medium;"><b>As humans we feel really guilty confining our dogs to a crate or an area away from us, <i>especially</i> <i>when we are home</i> with them. </b>Actually, most commonly when we are home with them. I often hear: "Why would I have a dog that I can't have out with me at all times, what's the point?!" My answer: "This isn't forever. But you need to get some major boundaries and training in place before that can happen."</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: medium;">Many households do have dogs that are totally fine being left un-confined and do not get into any trouble. However, <b>I feel that all dogs should be able to be confined at times, as there may be situations where this is absolutely necessary. </b> <i>See my blog post "<a href="https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2017/08/the-most-important-thing-to-teach-fido.html" target="_blank">The most important thing to teach Fido</a>" about this specific topic.</i></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oWnog96pCEE/WqlLZLUTQcI/AAAAAAAAqqs/UGGvrnKkEcIAOKr-9G4hEEjbHoY-qd1wACLcBGAs/s1600/dog-kitchen-trash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oWnog96pCEE/WqlLZLUTQcI/AAAAAAAAqqs/UGGvrnKkEcIAOKr-9G4hEEjbHoY-qd1wACLcBGAs/s200/dog-kitchen-trash.jpg" width="150" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><i><br /></i> Back to boundaries and freedom ... Think of dogs like children. When raising children you cannot allow them to run amuck with no rules or boundaries and then expect them to listen and follow rules, right? I mean why would they? No one ever set any boundaries and suddenly you want compliance? Likely going to have some backlash from that. Dogs do the same thing but in different ways, eh-hem, since they are obviously a different species. <b>A dog's lack of putting in boundaries, training and rules might look like destroying your things, grabbing things off counters, running out the front door, not doing what you ask when you ask, barking ... several things show as a result of lack of training and boundary-setting.</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: medium;">When I hear of dogs that "don't listen" or "get into trouble a lot" (get into trash, stealing things, grabbing things off counters, pestering while humans have mealtime, potty troubles, etc.) then I immediately see a common trend. The trend is these dogs have a lack of clear boundaries and little to no training in place (and sadly sometimes the wrong type of training <span style="background-color: white; color: #444444;">—</span> leash jerks, not teaching alternative behaviors, lots of punishments for poor behavior, etc.). Often this is a dog that isn't crated or confined, management isn't in place and/or the dog is allowed too much freedom with little to no rules along with that ... and to top all that off often they have only be told what <i>not to do</i>, as opposed to trained what to do instead. </span><i><span style="font-size: medium;">Read: "No! Get off! Stop jumping!" Trainer brain: "So what has the dog been trained to do instead of jump? What do you want him to do instead so he can make that choice?"</span></i></span><br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eas6UwZCQfI/Wp2xZ0AWDjI/AAAAAAAAqV8/EGJkhQucz4Yk29n0INg6EGUumZSPXQUvQCLcBGAs/s1600/puppy-in-crate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="225" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eas6UwZCQfI/Wp2xZ0AWDjI/AAAAAAAAqV8/EGJkhQucz4Yk29n0INg6EGUumZSPXQUvQCLcBGAs/s200/puppy-in-crate.jpg" width="150" /></span></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="font-size: large;">Confinement isn't punishment and isn't intended to be. </b><span style="font-size: medium;"> This isn't boundary training if it's used as I'm-mad-at-you-and-I-failed-at-management-so-now-you-have-to-be-tossed-into-your-crate! </span><b style="font-size: large;">Boundary training, when done properly, yields great results</b><span style="font-size: medium;"> while also helping your dog learn to be confined and remain calm and relaxed while doing </span>so<span style="clear: right; display: inline; font-size: medium; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;">We often do follow boundary training with puppies because we know if we let a puppy run around on it's own it will usually potty somewhere or chew something inappropriate. However, with adult dogs we don't think in this manner as we often assume adult dogs shouldn't be doing these types of behaviors. Afterall, they are adult dogs! So, we end up getting frustrated and labeling instead of manageing and training. <i>"Fido is so bad! He just steals my socks all the time!" "Fluffy is about to find a new place to live! I'm so done with her taking my kids toys!" "Fido is getting on my last nerve with his destructive behavior when I'm gone!" </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The truth is that a lot of problem behaviors can be solved with a simple plan of boundary setting, impulse control exercises and training.</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <b><span style="font-size: medium;">SO WHAT DOES THIS LOOK LIKE?</span></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b><u><br /></u></b></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b><u>Boundaries</u> <span style="background-color: white; color: #444444;">—</span> Dog is crated or put in x-pen/safe confinement area when she cannot be supervised/owner is too busy to supervise.</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><br />Examples:</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">Need to do a thousand things around the house but worried Fido will get into things? Put him in his crate. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">Need to shower but don't trust Fluffy while you're out of sight for that long? Put her in her confinement area.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">Fido annoyingly bothers you while you eat, or worse, grabs food from your plate! Put him in is crate while you eat.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">Fluffy is destructive when you leave the house, even if just one magazine (or an entire window covering!). Crate instead!</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">Fido is running crazy around the living room and won't settle down, driving you crazy. Crate him. Give him a "chill out time". </span></li>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Boundaries are really a type of management.</b> (Read my <a href="https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2017/05/i-dont-wanna-dislike-of-management-in.html" target="_blank">blog post on management</a> in dog training <a href="https://stacythetrainer.blogspot.com/2017/05/i-dont-wanna-dislike-of-management-in.html" target="_blank">here</a>.) <b>While boundaries don't train your dog to stop doing unwanted behaviors, they prevent them from happening which is actually a huge part of successful training.</b> Every time a dog gets to do an unwanted behavior that behavior is being reinforced. Those behaviors are fun for the dog, therefore, they will do it again (this is the definition of reinforcement and it happens whether we reinforce it or they do it themselves!).</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: medium;"><b><u>Training</u> <span style="background-color: white; color: #444444;">—</span> This must go hand-in-hand with boundary setting. If you aren't training and you're only confining your dog to get him out of our hair then you're not really doing much boundary setting. </b> You're likely frustrated when that's happening and that becomes a slippery slope.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><br />Examples:</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">Train Fluffy <i>what to do</i> while you are cooking dinner instead of being a crazy pup jumping or counter-surfing or whatever is going on. This can alleviate the need to crate her and allow her to hang out, while she makes good choices. This is where I find <a href="https://smartdoguniversity.com/4864-2/" target="_blank">mat training</a> to be the best thing ever. <a href="https://smartdoguniversity.com/teach_settle_mat/" target="_blank">Train your dog to lie on a mat</a><span id="goog_90309553"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_90309554"></span> while you are busy around the kitchen, eating at the table or making food.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://clickertraining.com/how-to-prevent-door-dashing-dog" target="_blank">Train Fido to wait to go out the door</a> by sitting then going out when given permission. This is a great impulse control exercise that helps alleviate door-darting and also has the dog wait to do as asked instead of making choices on his own [that could be dangerous]. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">Train Fido to make good choices. This could mean a lot of things. The best course of action is to hire a trainer that comes into your home so that you can address your dog's specific needs.</span></li>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Training is really a critical part of owning a dog. Sure, I say that because I'm a trainer and would never own an un-trained dog, but .... it's absolutely true.</b> Trained dogs are easier to live with. This doesn't even have to mean advanced level training. Training can involve things as simple as just sitting at the door before going out to coming when called or as advanced as you want to go <span style="background-color: white; color: #444444;">—</span> like agility, advanced obedience, <a href="http://www.akc.org/products-services/training-programs/canine-good-citizen/about/" target="_blank">Canine Good Citizen</a>, therapy dog training, etc. <b> </b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>Dog training possibilities are endless. But home manners and basics are a must</b>, in my professional and personal opinion, if you want to live peacefully with your dog. This includes management and boundary training.</span></div>
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></b> <b style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Stacy Greer</span></b></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-74297186296830172018-03-13T18:07:00.001-05:002018-07-20T15:05:33.055-05:00"Can my dog sleep with me?"<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>You have no idea the sigh of relief clients get when I tell them that yes, their dog can sleep in bed with them.</b> Yeah, it's pretty sad how the dominance myth has been tossed around for decades, actually a lot longer than that, that if you're dog sleeps in your bed or sits on your couch or heaven, forbid the back of the couch ... that he's going to "not know his place in the pack". Baloney. Hogwash. Rubbish. Bullshit.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><b>BED RULES FOR FIDO.</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">If you want your dog to sleep in your bed, these are the rules I suggest my clients have in place:</span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1) the dog is comfortable with being moved manually (if you go to move the dog)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">2) better yet, the dog moves when you ask her to (learns a cue to move over)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">3) learns a cue to get off the bed completely when asked (I teach my dogs "off" for this cue)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">4) dog doesn't growl/snap/bite/lunge (yikes!) when you get into the bed (or your partner gets into the bed)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">5) doesn't pee on the bed (yeah, seriously!)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">6) doesn't cause relationship issues with whomever you share the bed with (haha, ok this is on you!)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Those are my rules for bed sleeping. <b>If your dog violates rule #4 this is the biggest issue for no-bed. This is also a totally different situation on your hands. If your dog does this you need to hire a pro to come in and help. </b>This is a form of resource guarding. They are either guarding the bed, the space or sometimes the human in the bed if a partner comes to the bed and this sets the dog off. But do note, this is <i><u>not</u></i> dominance or anything related to that in the least. If this does apply to your dog, until you can get some help you should have your dog sleep in a crate or another secure room or area that is not close to the bed.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Oh and for puppy owners -- they should be <i>fully</i> potty trained and totally reliable to sleep all night long before sleeping in bed with you.</b> If your puppy can sleep all night in the bed and not wake to potty or get up and wander, then have at it!</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>So, if you want to snuggle in bed with your pooch(es) then go for it. I love sleeping with my dogs.</b> They warm me up in the winter and snuggle with me in the mornings before I have to officially get out of bed to start the day.</span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Stacy Greer</span></b></div>
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<b>Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC</b></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">
servicing the Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas metroplex</div>
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<a href="http://sunshinedog.com/" style="color: #4d469c; text-decoration-line: none;">sunshinedog.com</a></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-77701876435577306712018-01-31T12:35:00.003-06:002023-10-26T16:44:29.710-05:00Puppies: What is good socialization?<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b>Puppy Socialization. Everyone has heard of it.</b> Everyone knows it's important and most people attempt it. <b>Sadly, most people miss the mark</b> ... and this includes incredibly savvy and knowledgeable dog people and professionals. Yup. This is my professional and personal belief after doing this dog behavior thing for just about 18 years now (as of the date of this blog post).</span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Over these years I've learned, <i>the hard way</i>, what socialization really is and what it isn't. If you would have asked me 10 years ago about what I wrote in this blog post I might disagree with some of it. But we all grow, as good trainers, right?</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">I've learned that most dog owners aren't completely keyed in on the important points of what it takes to "socialize" a puppy.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">I'm going to go over what I feel is the proper way to socialize a puppy to live in the world we live in.</span></b><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">WHAT IS SOCIALIZATION ANYWAY?!</span></b><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">You've likely heard this term a lot. However, you may be asking -- <b>what <i>exactly</i> is socialization anyway?!</b> This would likely depend on who you ask. So sadly there isn't a black and white definition of it. However, as a professional, I'd like to discuss what <i><u>I</u></i> define as socialization.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">My own definition of socialization is this . . .</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><b><u><br /></u></b><i><b><u>Socialization</u> </b>— Exposing your puppy to things in brief, but positive ways, while keeping him/her safe, happy and making positive associations the priority without forcing or allowing over-stimulation. It also exposes them to other people, places, noises, and inanimate things without overwhelming them; keeping body language, thresholds and early stress signals in mind at all times.</i></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><i><br /></i> <b>It's important that puppies start socializing as soon as you get them (usually 8-10 weeks of age) up to about 16 weeks of age. This is the prime socialization "window". This means that outside of this window you are either just training in new situations or rehabilitating</b> if the puppy is having poor reactions in certain situations and/or towards other people and/or animals. It's even better if a puppy starts with great socialization at the breeder's home. The <a href="https://puppyculture.com/" target="_blank">Puppy Culture</a> is my chosen program for this from breeders.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">I prefer to take a puppy in the real world for socialization where the puppy is given food/treats/rewards (whatever puppy deems as highly rewarding) when puppy notices, comes near or sees a new/novel person, thing or situation. I prefer this over "puppy class" or "socialization classes". While I think these classes can be good as a <i>part of</i> the training, it shouldn't ever be the only training in the way of socialization for your puppy.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">SOCIALIZING TO NEW PLACES, OBJECTS & THINGS</span></b><br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9LK8ISI_w98/WdvKp0-sNEI/AAAAAAAAluA/qGY8MFb2O140zWCJ_HlB6EnO5PGdNfxmACLcBGAs/s1600/HomeDepotSocialiation.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="400" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9LK8ISI_w98/WdvKp0-sNEI/AAAAAAAAluA/qGY8MFb2O140zWCJ_HlB6EnO5PGdNfxmACLcBGAs/s200/HomeDepotSocialiation.jpeg" width="150" /></span></a><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">This would look like me walking through Home Depot with puppy on leash, treating with each steps puppy makes. Having puppy practice some "sits" while giving treats. When puppy looks at the strange bag of potting soil I click/treat and move on, or I may scatter treats on the ground and allow puppy to clean it up. Potting soil bag = yummy pile of treats to forage through on the ground! Win! The as<span style="text-align: center;">sociation becomes potting soil bags are cool and fun to be around.</span></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span> I encourage puppy to climb on new surfaces and objects. I don't force it. I simply lay a pile of treats on the pallet of rocks in the landscape section and let him go get the treats. He may stretch really far to get the food because he's a little unsure. That's ok. I do nothing. I say nothing. I simply let him figure it out on his own. If he's too uneasy I start by putting the food on the ground near the rocks but not on them. Then slowly move him to the rocks. Then if he explores them on his own I reward heavily and then move to the next thing. I change up things. I might take some of the pavers off the pallet and lay them on the ground and do the same thing. This all lasts all of 30-60 seconds.</span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">This can also happen at playgrounds (at times where they are <i>not</i> full of loud, boisterous kids!) I do this on a school day in the mornings when no one is usually there. Lots of surfaces to explore. Again, I force nothing. I simply give food to make associations and my own body language and behavior is relaxed, calm and I'm rarely saying anything. I don't say "Oh, go on, go on, that's good, look at this! Oh, look Rover!" I let the puppy do all the thinking and learning on her own. I'm providing the rewards to make the associations.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">I will take puppy only a couple times a week to different places and feed while puppy explores, sees new things and people. Each look towards something new=food. I will also be using really high-value food.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">BOTTOM LINE: 3-5 x a week, expose to new places, things & surfaces for short periods (10-15 minutes).</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">SOCIALIZING TO PEOPLE/STRANGERS</span></b><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vL_vTCZjd80/WdvMp2VURYI/AAAAAAAAluE/FZ6WqDIUz-cHmCkgFDAPs0igsGfH7NjpwCLcBGAs/s1600/Jumping_Up_Dog_Puppy.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="475" data-original-width="712" height="133" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vL_vTCZjd80/WdvMp2VURYI/AAAAAAAAluE/FZ6WqDIUz-cHmCkgFDAPs0igsGfH7NjpwCLcBGAs/s200/Jumping_Up_Dog_Puppy.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></div>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">I also take into account that puppy should be meeting and seeing new people. However, this is where I differ with socialization from what a lot of "the books" and other trainers may suggest. I don't want people coming over to swoon and pet all over my puppy when I'm out with him. Does this mean people aren't allowed to pet my puppy?! No. It means I'm going to control how this happens and allow puppy to make choices that are respected while also forming a great association with people.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">The second I notice a person <i>—</i> whether approaching us or just when puppy sees the person <i>— </i>I will begin feeding her treats <i>continually</i> (one treat at a time, right after the other). I will continue to treat while I'm conversing with this stranger <i>if </i>they approach. This makes puppy see people approach and then make the association that when people approach and we are chatting good things happen. So hopefully I'm building a behavior that she looks forward to people approaching. She will also do this without jumping because I'm rewarding while she's sitting and watching me interact with this person.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">If the person wants to pet my puppy it would go like this ... "Oh! Can I pet your puppy?!" Me: "You can help me socialize him, that's what we are doing right now. Could you wait for him to sit, then put your hand under his chin and let him nibble these treats from your hand? [I put treats in person's hand] If you want to pet please do so under his chin and just for a count of 3... 1-2-3. ... Thank you!" Then I say thank you and move on by calling puppy to come along with me and then moving to the next thing.</span><br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZNonrGmkuNY/WnH7CySZ8pI/AAAAAAAApkg/G5Vkdv7ERZgcuVK2sCh0pjlp9L-4n5m-gCLcBGAs/s1600/puppy-on-leash-focus.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="363" data-original-width="403" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZNonrGmkuNY/WnH7CySZ8pI/AAAAAAAApkg/G5Vkdv7ERZgcuVK2sCh0pjlp9L-4n5m-gCLcBGAs/s200/puppy-on-leash-focus.jpg" width="200" /></span></a><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">I would also only allow a few people to actually pet her too much in one session, as this can be quite overwhelming to a puppy. So I'd likely only allow a maximum of 2-3 people to do this during that one outing. I'd prefer to just walk around and let her <i>see</i> people and reward her when we do see others but not encourage physical interaction unless brief and okayed by puppy.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">The problem with greeting <i>tons</i> of people is that it can backfire. I think it's been drilled into our heads about socializing puppies that the more people they meet, the merrier. I don't find this to be true <i>most</i> of the time. Instead, it should be taken into account how puppy feels and reacts around the person. I'd put puppy down and have person make puppy sounds to invite interaction, "Hey! Pup! Pup! Pup!" (in a slightly high-pitched tone) or "kissy sounds". If puppy responds and goes to the stranger then I'd have stranger immediately begin to give rewards to puppy. If puppy doesn't immediately go to the stranger I'd practice sit and reward puppy for <i>looking at</i> stranger to make the connection that stranger=yummy food, but puppy doesn't have to go to stranger. This doesn't force the puppy to interact when they don't want to but will build a good association with people and likely teach puppy people are a-ok. They will then possibly decide to approach people on their own and more often OR maybe not. If not, <i>that's ok.</i> The goal is to at least make them ok with people around even if they don't necessarily want to interact with them. Not all dogs need to love everyone, but they shouldn't be afraid of them or become wary or anxious around them either.</span><br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qa-XeCcYCD8/WnH7KjYRtyI/AAAAAAAApkk/lP0mzQ3ZulQpJN5Lzu4KqNDf5vVpDPaHgCLcBGAs/s1600/puppy_LR.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="183" data-original-width="275" height="132" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qa-XeCcYCD8/WnH7KjYRtyI/AAAAAAAApkk/lP0mzQ3ZulQpJN5Lzu4KqNDf5vVpDPaHgCLcBGAs/s200/puppy_LR.jpeg" width="200" /></a><span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><br />
<span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">The above would also apply to people entering your home to meet the new puppy. Have treats ready, </span>stranger<span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"> should somewhat ignore puppy and if puppy initiates greeting or bounds happily over then they can begin to feed puppy treats. They can ask puppy for a sit, if he knows this cue at the time, and then reward. If </span>person<span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"> wants to pet puppy they should go under the chin and give scratches there</span>; and<span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"> on their </span>backside<span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"> if they enjoy that.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">After about 10-15 minutes I'd end the session and go home. You'll notice how exhausting this is for a puppy because your puppy will likely sleep well after these little "socialization" sessions. It's mentally draining, which is good ... when done in brief, positive sessions with a few days between each.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">BOTTOM LINE: 3-5 x a week, expose to new people, dogs & other animals for very brief periods (10-15 minutes). Each session should be positive, short-lived & take puppy's body language & feelings into consideration.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">DOG-TO-DOG SOCIALIZATION</span></b><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TKWYPoiSja8/WnIApYbOc9I/AAAAAAAAplA/ZlQphMnA-ZEuewivxz7NoPIl6TTEvWeaQCLcBGAs/s1600/puppy_adult_dog.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="714" data-original-width="1000" height="142" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TKWYPoiSja8/WnIApYbOc9I/AAAAAAAAplA/ZlQphMnA-ZEuewivxz7NoPIl6TTEvWeaQCLcBGAs/s200/puppy_adult_dog.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></div>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Some of you may have just scrolled down to this topic. It's a popular question with puppies <i>—</i> how do I get my puppy socialized to other dogs?! This is also, as you have noticed by now, not addressed [by me] the same as most socialization ideas/techniques/whatever-you-call-it that you'll read or be told by others.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Here is the first shock you'll hear me say: puppy classes/socialization classes (at least the classes I've seen) aren't socializing your puppy and teaching them how to socialize with other dogs.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">GASP! WHAT?!!</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">The best way to socialize your puppy to other dogs is to have them meet and hang around <i>adult dogs</i> that tolerate, play and/or properly correct puppies as needed. Puppies don't teach puppies how adult dogs act or how to act as an adult dog. Having puppies play with puppies of the same age is like having your toddler play with toddlers and assume they'll learn how to do independent and adult things from those toddlers. Yeah, nope.</span><br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CgXw5IPReMI/WnIAvvUGBLI/AAAAAAAAplE/T7w1ry6iwTAPwVPTUrhtfEB2zdfrEYucwCLcBGAs/s1600/older_dog_puppy.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="133" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CgXw5IPReMI/WnIAvvUGBLI/AAAAAAAAplE/T7w1ry6iwTAPwVPTUrhtfEB2zdfrEYucwCLcBGAs/s200/older_dog_puppy.jpg" width="200" /></span></a><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">So, on that note don't go out and toss your puppy in a dog park either <i>—</i> I mean there are lots of adult dogs there, right?! Nopety, nope. No dog parks. Actually, if you ask me, I say no dog parks for <i>any</i> age dog but at the very least <i>never ever</i> take a puppy to a dog park.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Find friends, family, neighbors with adult dogs that are 2+ years old and appropriate with puppies. I actually recommend you find a trainer that can help you with this process if you're not sure. Finding an appropriately tempered dog is vital to this as well. Some dogs over the age of 2 don't tolerate puppies well and become agitated, annoyed quickly or flat out aggressive towards puppies.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">You are going to be looking for a dog that will possibly play with the puppy appropriately, i.e., play bows, bouncy/loose body language, running happily (not out of fear), chasing (preferably one chases, then the other chases, not one-sided), and a few others. <a href="http://www.ispeakdog.org/play-behavior.html" target="_blank">Here</a> is an excellent read on <a href="http://www.ispeakdog.org/play-behavior.html" target="_blank">appropriate play between dogs</a> and reading body language from <a href="http://www.ispeakdog.org/" target="_blank">iSpeakDog</a>.</span><br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lvMu97NH6Qg/WnILiQOKxwI/AAAAAAAAplU/xUC29NPUFnEsNPOpDQD2ZOl6BbbcKyZHQCLcBGAs/s1600/GR_play_bow.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="393" data-original-width="500" height="156" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lvMu97NH6Qg/WnILiQOKxwI/AAAAAAAAplU/xUC29NPUFnEsNPOpDQD2ZOl6BbbcKyZHQCLcBGAs/s200/GR_play_bow.jpg" width="200" /></a><span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><br />
<span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">It's also ok if the adult dog snarks at the puppy and corrects her </span><i style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">appropriately</i><span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">. The key word is </span><i style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">appropriately</i><span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">. If the dog loses its cool and really lays into your puppy (read: attacks puppy or bites puppy much heavier than a correction) that's not a good correction, that's over-reacting. </span><a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-5302737/German-Shepherd-loses-temper-puppy.html#v-777022222284861497" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;" target="_blank">This is a video</a><span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"> of a proper correction given to a puppy.* Please note in </span><a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-5302737/German-Shepherd-loses-temper-puppy.html#v-777022222284861497" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;" target="_blank">this video</a><span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"> the older dog is not wanting the puppy playing with him. He gives an appropriate correction and nothing over-the-top.</span><br />
<i><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">*It should be noted that I do not condone the full interaction demonstrated in the linked video above. The puppy is allowed to pester the adult dog for too long. I simply want to use it to show what a proper correction from an adult dog to a puppy looks like. The video in its entirety isn't one I'd use to show how a puppy should interact with another dog. </span></i><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">When dogs give <i>appropriate</i> corrections humans shouldn't ever get onto the corrector or do anything. This is why it's also important to know what is appropriate and what is not, as well as if a dog will do the former or the latter. Don't test the waters if you don't know, it could have ill and lasting effects on your puppy! This is why a trained eye for this would be very imperative!</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">So, after you have chosen some appropriate dogs for puppy to play with then set up a time to meet in a big enough space for each of the dogs to get up and move around and away from one another as well as chase and run. Only set up these "play dates" once or twice a week for short periods <i>—</i> about 10-15 minutes. If you want to have it last longer, give lots of breaks (I'd recommend puppy goes to his crate for rest and then plays some more). But each interactive session should be short and sweet.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Other than these play dates I highly recommend getting into a group class to have puppy learn how to learn and cooperate when around other dogs. The class should not include playing and rough-housing amongst the other dogs. It should only involve learning. This concept goes along with how I have puppy learn to act and behave around other people, as listed above. Puppy should learn to work around other puppies/dogs and make great associations when around them but not necessarily go to them and interact with them.</span><br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Cdaa8kD7lE/WnIL8PA91AI/AAAAAAAAplY/zauyQMhvY08FNKwtcYBSL9TNAxoO4WjIgCLcBGAs/s1600/puppy_class.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="640" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Cdaa8kD7lE/WnIL8PA91AI/AAAAAAAAplY/zauyQMhvY08FNKwtcYBSL9TNAxoO4WjIgCLcBGAs/s200/puppy_class.jpg" width="200" /></a><span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><br />
<span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Once your class is over you should take it upon yourself to get </span>puppy<span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"> out in the real world and training around other people, dogs, places, etc. It will look like this: puppy is out on </span>leash<span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">, walking through town and a person with a dog walks by, you ask your puppy to sit and reward her. Then you keep walking while rewarding her for looking at and possibly passing by this dog. No interactions should occur and should actually be avoided. Advocate for your puppy when out and explain that you're in training and not allowing your puppy to greet other dogs when on </span>leash<span face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"> at that time.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">At some point you can set up a friend to meet you out and about with their dog on leash and you can train with leash greetings with other dogs. I'd also hire a trainer to help you with this. <b>Actually I'd hire a trainer to help you through the entire dog-dog socialization process.</b> Also, your trainer should be able to teach you how to read your dog, and other dogs', body language during all this work. This will be critical information to have for the life of your dog in just about any scenario and situation you can think of. Body language skills will save your life as a dog owner.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">BOTTOM LINE: Hire a trainer to help you through the dog socialization process for best results and skills for real-world information you can use when on your own later down the road.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">CONCLUSION</span></b><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">So, as you can see socializing your puppy is no easy task. However, when done properly it will pay tenfold for the life of your dog regardless of the environment and situation your dog is put into.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Also, all of the above should begin as soon as you get your puppy (no earlier than 8 weeks of age). Vaccinations can be a factor for many but you can adjust your outings to be safe and still get your training and socialization in with your puppy. Don't wait to start past the age of 10-11 weeks on most of these exercises. If your puppy has had a recent set of vaccines wait 5-7 days to take puppy out but do some make-shift work while puppy rides in shopping carts or is able to be carried, etc. Choose locations wisely and playmates wisely as well.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">If your veterinarian is suggesting waiting for full vaccines I encourage you to share the <a href="https://avsab.org/" target="_blank">AVSAB</a> (American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior) <a href="https://avsab.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Puppy_Socialization_Position_Statement_Download_-_10-3-14.pdf" target="_blank">position statement</a> on puppy socialization with them.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span> <i><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Please note that the AVSAB statement I've listed above doesn't align with all the socialization techniques I've described above (not 100%) but I like to share the paper for their stance of when to start socialization with regards to vaccinations.<br /><br /><b>This blog post are my opinions and statements alone. These techniques and protocols are mine and what I find are most effective and beneficial to puppies. Please move forward with training and socialization as you feel is best for you and your puppy.</b></span></i><br />
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<style type="text/css"> p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px 'Helvetica Neue'} </style></div>The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-16951496528677198172017-10-05T13:24:00.001-05:002017-10-05T13:24:37.087-05:00Training is mostly silent . . . Do you ever talk to your dogs? I know I do. I talk to them often . . . I tell them they are cute and ask them where my keys are, I know they know. They saw me put those keys somewhere! However, when I'm training my dogs to do something I don't say much. I wait for the offered (wanted) behavior and I then give feedback.<br />
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I've noticed lately that dog owners talk too much to their dogs. Sometimes even when not training when they are speaking to their dog I notice the dog is becoming either annoyed, agitated or shut down due to all the babble. Sometimes we just need to stop talking!<br />
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When training feedback is given in overabundance because we are humans with voices. Our first response when a dog doesn't "get it" is to say it again or give a lot of verbal feedback. Most of the time, if not all of the time, this impacts the training process in a negative way. The dog usually becomes confused or non-compliant. When this happens the labels and blame-game starts flying around <span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 12px;">—</span> "My dog is so stubborn!" "Oh, he knows what to do, he just won't do it!" "She's doing this on purpose!" "He doesn't listen to me ..."<br />
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This is where training gets super muddy. This is also why so many people fall back on punishments when the dog isn't "getting it" and seemingly "not listening" or "being stubborn". The reality is that we are giving too much feedback at the wrong time. We are causing the dog's confusion and lack of understanding ... which is then mislabeled as "stubborn" or "non-compliant".<br />
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So, when you are training your dog follow these rules in your head, I call it WAGS.<br />
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1. <b>W</b>ait for processing<br />
2. <b>A</b>llow for concepts to form<br />
3. <b>G</b>ive feedback when a tiny behavior in the right direction occurs<br />
4. <b>S</b>tart making progress in your desired outcome<br />
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Before training ask yourself these things:<br />
1. Does your dog know what you want him to do?<br />
2. Have you taught your dog the behavior that goes with the cue (sit = butt on the floor)<br />
3. Have you rewarded that behavior so that it's repeated?<br />
4. Have you added a verbal cue to a behavior at the appropriate time so that dog understands the connection? (Remember: Dogs don't know English, we have to put behaviors first, then words to those behaviors!)<br />
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When you say too many words to your dog it's usually because you are trying to get the dog to understand something. For example, I so very often see people request that their dog "sit". The dog may or may not really and truly understand this cue to mean put your butt on the ground until told to do something else. So the dog will often stand there for a second and when they don't comply immediately the dog owner then states it again, "SIT!", usually with a tad more gusto. <br /><br />This isn't actually teaching the dog anything and it's diluting the sit cue. Saying it over and over doesn't make the dog understand it better. Often the dog may sit after the 2nd or 3rd request. This doesn't mean they were "stubborn" the first time you asked it means they were confused and unsure what you meant. They did it the 2nd time maybe because they just decided to sit, or they offered something that has worked for them in the past or they've been rewarded for sitting on the 2nd request and so they assume the cue is "sit, SIT!"<br />
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So, when training something that is new to your dog try to remember to only focus on the behavior. The behavior has to be reliable before you can put a verbal cue to that behavior so that the dog makes the association with the behavior and the cue. All the feedback in between can be muddying the whole process since our dogs don't understand verbal language as we do.<br />
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If I'm quiet then how does my dog know what I want?!<br />
Great question! I knew you were wondering ... Well, you reward the behavior(s) your dog offers that lead up to the behavior you desire. This is actually a technique called "shaping". It's quite effective in getting reliable behaviors without luring or physical prompting. I do lure some behaviors, however, I don't ever physically prompt a behavior (this would be like pushing a dog's rump down physically to make it sit).<br /><br />So what does that look like? Let's say you're teaching your dog to lie down on cue. She's never learned this. She does know "sit" but "down" is a bit different. So you could shape it by marking each little behavior that is in the direction leading up to a "down". This might be the dog looking down to the ground. If you are using a clicker, then you click the second the dog looks down and toss the treat. You say nothing. Zip. Just click and treat. Then you might do that about 4-5 times. Then you will say -- to yourself internally -- hmmm, I'm not going to click you for looking down now I want you to do something else that is leading to you lying down. So you might sit there for some time because you're saying nothing. You are simply waiting for your dog to offer a behavior. It might be a paw stretched out some or shoulder blades going down. Anything. You're still saying nothing. You are only clicking and treating as each behavior you like occurs.<br />
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Now, if you're not savvy with a clicker or shaping you might be thinking right now -- good grief! This sounds tedious and long-winded just to do a lie-down cue! Why can't I just put my dog into the down position and reward him then? Or can't I just lure the dog down with a treat and reward him when he goes down? The answer to the first one (physically prompting) is no, the second one (luring) is yes. It really depends on the way you teach. However, my bigger takeaway is that you aren't <i>saying</i> anything while you're teaching this ... unless you are using a "Yes!" as a verbal marker (which would replace a clicker). <br />
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This really gets your dog's brain in high gear. This allows your dog to think. To make decisions on his own. It has him being what we call "operant". They will start to offer behaviors when training. It will make your training soooo much easier and quicker. While the above scenario of teaching a "down" cue sounds long and tedious when it's actually done it's not. Maybe a few minutes? <br />
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Without saying anything during this process, and only allowing your dog to think on her own, we are getting a behavior more reliable because the moments we do give feedback are the moments we want repeated. It also alleviates all confusion. If in between all the times I was trying to get the dog to lie down I said "No, down!" or something else, I'd be throwing out too many things at this non-verbal creature. The poor thing would be utterly confused. And when done too often we can see a dog that really wants no part of training. These are the dogs I see very, very often labeled as "stubborn".<br />
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Now go try it. Report back. Did your dog respond better when you only gave the appropriately timed feedback? Did you notice how difficult it was to be quiet?! Let me know, I want to hear your experiences!<br />
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<i><b><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Stacy Greer</span></b></i></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-14419001657703600782017-08-31T12:18:00.003-05:002022-02-23T00:21:24.085-06:00My dog is anti-social ... now what?!<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>I think one of the most common inquiries I receive day to day is regarding someone with a dog that doesn't like other dogs.</b> Most of these dog owners see their dogs display aggressive behaviors, or what appear to be aggressive behaviors, towards other dogs either in the home or outside the home, or both.</span><br />
</span><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JMoZEcv0u9I/WahAwnnYJTI/AAAAAAAAj-E/9QHscXDmb9wPeMjYvk8YdQ6nBTmyboIOQCLcBGAs/s1600/pack_dogs.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JMoZEcv0u9I/WahAwnnYJTI/AAAAAAAAj-E/9QHscXDmb9wPeMjYvk8YdQ6nBTmyboIOQCLcBGAs/s200/pack_dogs.jpg" width="200" /></span></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">As a society we've been listening to decades of information that states "dogs are pack animals" and they are "social creatures by nature" and do best with a companion. This has many dog owners with dogs that don't seem to like other dogs quite upset. They are concerned that their dog is "broken" or something is wrong because he doesn't like other dogs. And they want to seek out a way to fix the dog and make him like other dogs.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>You should know something. Not all dogs like other dogs, and that's ok.</b> While we can help dogs, like the ones I've described here, become more comfortable with the presence of other dogs, <b>sometimes dogs just don't want to mingle with other dogs</b>. Period. They are introverts if you will. They want to stay home and be with their human counterparts. Some dogs don't like sharing their home with other dogs either, and that's ok too.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">I recall a client I had years ago that was just dead set on her dog liking all the dogs in the neighborhood because, as she stated, "We are a social neighborhood and all the dogs always just hang out together. She needs to be able to hang out with us when we do this!" I think I was a little speechless for a moment. Then I said, "Do you know any introverts? They really are happy with their small circle of friends and sometimes that's just the person(s) living in the home and that's it. All the therapy in the world would likely do nothing to change this for those introverts." She was not happy with my analogy and was very determined to get her dog to be social. <i>Note: It didn't happen. In case you're wondering, she never did finish her training. If she had, it would have involved me helping her get her dog emotionally stable upon seeing other dogs, and later when being near other dogs.... and some other stuff likely. I can't say for sure what the "other stuff" would be because I never got that far with her dog. There is a whole protocol for these situations, very customized to each dog as each is different.</i></span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <b><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">DOG TOLERANCE LEVELS</span></b><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>There are categories of tolerance levels dogs have for other dogs: social, tolerant, selective and aggressive.</b> Here is a good illustration and some explanation of this. <i>Illustrated by Lili Chin of Doggie Drawings: <span style="color: #313131;">Dog-Dog Relationships. A collaboration with </span><span class="color_18" style="border: 0px; color: #0099ff; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><a data-content="http://www.laurallondon.com" data-type="external" href="http://www.laurallondon.com/" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; cursor: pointer; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration-line: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Laura London</a></span><span style="color: #313131;"> and</span><span class="color_18" style="border: 0px; color: #0099ff; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"> <a data-content="http://www.paws4u.com" data-type="external" href="http://www.paws4u.com/" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; cursor: pointer; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration-line: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Sara Reusche</a></span><span style="color: #313131;">. More details in this blog post</span></i><span class="color_18" style="border: 0px; color: #0099ff; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><a data-content="https://paws4udogs.wordpress.com/2017/02/16/understanding-dog-dog-sociability/" data-type="external" href="https://paws4udogs.wordpress.com/2017/02/16/understanding-dog-dog-sociability/" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; cursor: pointer; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration-line: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank"><i> HERE.</i></a></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">If your dog is specific to whom he likes and dislikes it's important to "listen" to him. Your dog doesn't want to be around other dogs. <b>There is often a belief that if a dog is put into a situation with a lot of dogs often enough they will "get used to" dogs and be fine, or "get over it". Unfortunately, this isn't how it works.</b> More often than not that will backfired badly for you and your dog. Throwing a dog into a punch bowl of other dogs and hoping he'll learn how to deal is called <i>Flooding</i>. It's a behavior therapy technique used in psychology. It's got a lot of emotional drawbacks and sometimes, depending on the individual (dog or otherwise), it can be emotionally damaging.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <b><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">TOLERANT DOGS ARE THE HARDEST TO RESPECT</span></b><br />
<span face="helvetica neue, arial, helvetica, sans-serif">If you have a dog that is in the tolerant category you may see her become agitated at times with certain dogs and become quite upset. This category is highly common but most frustrating for owners because they think their dog is good with other dogs ... then one day they get snarky and the owner is incredibly upset over it.<br /><br />It's ok. Your dog is just fine until a dog does something she doesn't like. Just like we don't like all people we mingle with or know, dogs don't either, or at least tolerant dogs don't. <b>If your dog is tolerant it's really important to respect your dog and back your dog up when she becomes irritated with another dog, likely it was <i>the other dog's</i> fault. </b> Your dog deserves no backlash for this, she wants some space from the dog she was snarky with. Give it to her. Remove her, leave or listen to her body language before this happens. </span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">One of my dogs doesn't like a lot of outside dogs that aren't the two he lives with. So, guess what? I keep him away from other dogs. I have a lot of dogs in and out of my home for boarding and training. So, he could be forced to be around them. But .... why? Why do I have to force him? I don't. He is very clear in his body language and he lives very well with my dogs. So I don't see any reason at all why he has to mingle with strange dogs. Also, I admittedly don't have the time or inclination to work with him on how to change his behavior around other dogs. I could, I very easily could, but ... meh. I'm fine with how things are, and so is he because <i>I listen to him</i> and respect his tolerance level.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <b><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">WHAT IF MY DOG ISN'T TOLERANT WITH OTHER DOGS? </span></b><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Well, there are two things you can do 1) try and change this behavior through behavior modification or 2) respect your dog and keep her away from other dogs altogether. She's been loud and clear, I'm sure, on how she feels about them. So either listen and respect it thoughtfully or do something to change it.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b><br /></b> <b>SO HOW DO I WORK ON MY DOG'S REACTIONS TO OTHER DOGS?</b></span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>If your dog doesn't like other dogs but isn't aggressive towards them (won't do harm to them but puts on a big show) you can work through your dog's emotions and help your dog learn to be more relaxed, calm and behaviorally tolerable when around other dogs.</b> This should only be done with the help of a qualified professional that knows how to work with reactive dogs.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b><br /></b> </span></span><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MOCxqgpfu_A/WaXZsCXxQzI/AAAAAAAAj7k/Dj_wtKP87b4ZRLWpY6fihGoITUxBBH-8ACLcBGAs/s1600/dogs_lunging_onleash.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="564" data-original-width="811" height="138" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MOCxqgpfu_A/WaXZsCXxQzI/AAAAAAAAj7k/Dj_wtKP87b4ZRLWpY6fihGoITUxBBH-8ACLcBGAs/s200/dogs_lunging_onleash.jpg" width="200" /></span></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>If your dog really doesn't like other dogs and would likely do harm to one (or maybe already has) then it's imperative that you find a qualified behavior professional to help you.</b> Your dog isn't a lost cause and yes, there can be things that can be done to help both of you! There are a lot of factors involved when a dog is truly aggressive (has the intent to do harm or has already done harm) and only a qualified professional can lay out a plan of action for this type of dog.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">The main thing you need to understand is that <b>for your dog to live a long, happy and fulfilled life he doesn't <i>have to</i> have doggie friends. Yes, it's true.</b> Some dogs are completely fine just having human friends. There are many things you can do to engage your dog in activities, training, and enrichment that don't involve play or interacting with other dogs.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">WHAT ABOUT SOCIALIZING MY DOG?</span></b><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Something you should know about "socialization" is that it's done with after about 18 weeks of age for puppies, probably closer to 16 weeks. Most behaviors and associations towards people, animals, places and things are set after this age. Which means after this age you are just changing how they react to these things with training.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Here is a great read on when you're past socialization but you want to "socialize" your dog by Laura VanArendonk-Baugh of Canines in Action, Inc. in Indianapolis: <a href="https://clickertraining.com/dont-socialize-the-dog" target="_blank">"Don't Socialize the Dog!"</a></span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b><br /></b> <b>WHAT ABOUT DOG PARKS OR DOGGIE DAYCARE?</b></span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>Dog parks and doggie daycare aren't ideal for most dogs.</b> Yes, some dogs might be ok but for the most part, dogs aren't keen on being in a large room/open space with other [strange] dogs just roaming around. There is really not a lot of fun in that for a dog.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">In a setting such as these dogs aren't being dogs, they are just walking around in a large space with too many dogs thinking of things to do, which often end up as wrestling, humping or even pacing. <b>It's not at all "natural" dog behavior to plop dogs in a large group</b> in order to play and have fun. <b>Dogs do not walk around with large groups of dogs to socialize. </b>Society has designed these things to appease the dog owner.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b><br /></b> A great read on dog parks and "socialization" by Sara Reusche of Paws Abilities Dog Training in Minnesota: <a href="https://paws4udogs.wordpress.com/2012/04/09/dog-dog-socialization-beyond-the-dog-park/" target="_blank">"Dog-Dog Socialization: Beyond the Dog Park"</a></span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <b><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO SOCIALIZE MY DOG?</span></b><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>The single best thing you can do with your dog is work <i>around</i> other dogs </b>with your dog and</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">teach them how to behave and be calm and comfortable in that setting. You can even get into a well-set-up and well-run group class of your choosing. That means whether it's manners and skills you're working on or tricks or agility, or whatever ... you're working with your dog around other dogs. Your dog isn't mingling around with other dogs in class. It's not social hour.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">You can also find a place on your own where dogs physically hang out (city parks) and go there to work with your dog and his skills. If you choose a park to work your dog in you should work with your dog at a safe distance from the other dogs but so that he can still learn and work as you wish.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b><br /></b> <b>WHAT IF MY DOG IS NOT BEHAVIORALLY SUITABLE FOR A GROUP CLASS?</b></span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">If you cannot do the above <span style="color: #606060;">—</span> join a well-run group class to work on skills around other dogs without mingling with other dogs <span style="color: #606060;">—</span> then you really need to hire a trainer to come in and start you on some good foundation skills for you and your dog. Once you get a good baseline you can go from there, depending on many factors. I really cannot stress how important a qualified trainer is in order for this type of behavior training program to be successful.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span> <span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>BOTTOM LINE: Listen to your dog. </b>Either stop getting him around other dogs or hire a professional to help you change his responses and feelings towards and around other dogs.</span><br />
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<i><b><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Stacy Greer</span></b></i></div>
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<i><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;">Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC</span></i></div>
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><i>servicing the Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas metroplex</i></span></div>
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<i style="color: #4d469c;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://sunshinedog.com/" style="color: #4d469c;">sunshinedog.com</a></span></i></div>
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The Redheaded Dog Trainerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07341475449191606755noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324147675034299.post-21079304799675303802017-08-02T10:24:00.003-05:002020-07-09T10:12:59.061-05:00The most important thing to teach Fido ...I think this is the single most important thing you can teach your dog that lives in your home. This is 10 x more important if you're going to have a baby or have kids in the home.<br />
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So, what is it?<br />
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<b>Teach your dog to be ok with being alone in another room, either in a crate or behind a closed door. </b> By this I mean the dog can be confined, away from you and be calm, relaxed and quiet.<br />
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While I have a lot of clients that crate their dogs, a lot of those crated dogs are only crated, gated, or confined when the home is empty of humans. I've found that people rarely crate or confine their dog away from the family when they are home.<br />
<b><br /></b> <b>WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF ME CRATING MY DOG <i>WHILE I'M HOME</i>?!</b><br />
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<li>Fido learns that being alone is ok. This starts with being alone/confined <i>while owners are home</i>.</li>
<li>This can really be beneficial to combat any possibility of separation anxiety*.<br /><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">(*Note: this does <u>not</u> apply if the dog is already exhibiting signs or full-blown separation anxiety, that requires a whole other set of training! Contact a trainer if your dog has separation anxiety as quickly as possible.)</span></i></li>
<li>Gives Fluffy the ability to relax, on her own, and allow people in the home to do other tasks while not feeling bad for Fluffsters.</li>
<li>Allows people to put Fido away while guests are there, if it's a chaotic time (holidays), or if kids are chaotic and Fido needs to be put away for his and their sake.</li>
<li>If a new baby is in the home Fluffy can be put away, not stress out already exhausted parents and relax. Dog and baby should be separated at many times so this is hugely beneficial for new parents!</li>
<li>If Fido ever got injured and need a lot of crate rest this would make it that much easier on him.</li>
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<b>Having a dog that can be alone, in a crate or confined to another room is such a stress relief for the all the people that live in and visit your home. </b> For example, I have 3 dogs of my own and their crates are in my bedroom. If I need to put them away I never stress because they just go in and usually just take a nap regardless of time of day or what they've been doing prior to being put away. </div>
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I recall years ago I had 4 dogs at the time and we had a lot of my family over for Christmas. My grandmother said, "Um, don't you have a lot of dogs?! Where are they?!" I laughed and said, "Yes. They are in there [pointing to my bedroom door] just relaxing." She asked to see them. She walked into my room and they were all just lying in their crates. She was just floored that they were so quiet and peaceful. </div>
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<b>Dogs that can be alone, relaxed and calm, are easier to live with. Period. </b> You don't have to have guilt or worry with them being anxious when they are separated from you. </div>
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For expecting and new parents this is vital. Part of my <a href="https://www.familypaws.com/">Family Paws Parent Education</a> program involves teaching the dog(s) in the home to learn to relax and be ok with being away from the parents and, when the time comes, the baby. I have an entire protocol for this with new and expecting parents but the truth is that all dog owners should be doing this with their dogs, not just parents!</div>
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<b>WHEN WOULD I NEED TO CRATE MY DOG WHEN I'M HOME?</b></div>
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<li>During a dinner party or other time when several visitors/guests are in your home.</li>
<li>While you eat dinner so that you can eat in peace.</li>
<li>If you have a new baby and you need to tend to the baby and not worry with Fido.</li>
<li>If you have kids and the dog needs some of her own "down time" (which should be done regardless of dog's thoughts on the kids!)</li>
<li>Because you just want to have the dog out of the way!</li>
<li>If you have a puppy that's still not fully house-trained and/or trustworthy with chewing habits.</li>
<li>While you have workers in your home -- plumber, electrician, cable technician, etc.</li>
<li>While your training behaviors and need to use management to help (this applies to many things!)</li>
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<b>While you don't necessarily have to use a crate, I prefer it to all other things </b><i>(please see footnote below*)</i><b>. </b> You can shut them in a room or bathroom but I don't love this one as much. I like the dog to have their own space just set for them that's 100% safe (dogs can chew up baseboards and doorframes!). I also prefer this to an x-pen or area designated to just the dog. It's more intimate. <b>You can crate train any dog, at any age at any time when you have the right tools and information to do so. </b>(Read: Find an awesome trainer to help you out if you don't have one already!) </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>*<u>Footnote</u></i>:<i> You can, and probably should, practice these behaviors with your dog behind a gate where he can see you but cannot get to the same room as you. As gates and other forms of confinement may be necessary as well and Fido should be comfortable in all confinement situations in the home, with you in another room. However, for the sake of using fewer words, I'll only refer to crating in the majority of this blog post. </i></span></div>
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<b>SO, HOW DO I GO ABOUT THIS PROCESS?</b></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>While I suggest you hire a trainer to help you through things, there are several things you can do to get the process going on your own. If you run into any hiccups I'd suggest finding a trainer near you.</i></span></div>
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1. Feed your dog in his crate. Every meal. I prefer a stuffed KONG to feed from so that is utilizing some mental enrichment. However, a bowl will do too. Put food in crate, take out when you let Fido out. Do not leave in there if Fido doesn't finish it!</div>
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2. Leave her in there for short periods while you are just milling about your house. If Fluffy is quiet then you can let her out after a few minutes. If she's vocalizing then try to give something that will occupy her and keep her making good associations with being in the crate. I suggest a stuffed KONG, bully stick or something else pretty fun and/or high value.</div>
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3. Start <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Susan-Garretts-Crate-Self-Control-Motivation/dp/B0013GJJG6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501537900&sr=8-1&keywords=crate+games">Crate Games</a> by Susan Garrett. I also love all of these great games from Casey Lamonaco's article on crate training <a href="https://clickertraining.com/node/3140">here</a>.</div>
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4. If your dog doesn't go into the crate well, start shaping your dog to do this. Best done with a clicker, but not mandatory. You can find a great video on this <a href="https://youtu.be/aB0odRBDW3Y">here</a>.</div>
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5. Play soothing music in the room where Fido is crated. <a href="http://throughadogsear.com/">Through A Dog's Ear</a> is fabulous for this!</div>
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6. Gradually increase the amount of time that Fluffy is in the crate while you are home. Increase it by 2-5 minutes every couple of days for dogs that are doing well, not vocalizing and are pretty stress-free while doing this.</div>
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7. If you must, cover the crate with a sheet or <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=crate+cover">crate cover</a>. Some dogs are visually stimulated and do better when covered. Some don't do better. You can check to see if your dog does better covered or not covered.</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YI1N0QcEcWQ/WYHuRbX641I/AAAAAAAAi48/QeJJK99dJjQxw949VpanlrvwD5OCuYHSwCLcBGAs/s1600/dog-gate-pet-fence-baby-safety-indoor-wide-adjustable-walk-thru-door-barrier-new-3022f617262ba69f85f5d68d8d6eb943.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="398" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YI1N0QcEcWQ/WYHuRbX641I/AAAAAAAAi48/QeJJK99dJjQxw949VpanlrvwD5OCuYHSwCLcBGAs/s200/dog-gate-pet-fence-baby-safety-indoor-wide-adjustable-walk-thru-door-barrier-new-3022f617262ba69f85f5d68d8d6eb943.jpg" width="158" /></a><b>TIPS TO KEEP IN MIND:</b></div>
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<li>Don't rush it if your dog is stressed or anxious when left alone, go slowly. Dogs that aren't used to being left alone, crated/confined <i>while</i> you are home will usually show some signs of distress. If you aren't sure how to tell if it's "normal" stress (part of learning) or more than that (possibly high stress that will inhibit learning), locate a qualified professional.</li>
<li>If your dog just whines a little or barks a few times don't rush to let them out. Allow them some time to settle if you've been following the above tips. Some dogs will do this because they aren't used to being in there while you are home. (For lots of vocalizing or dogs that won't settle please contact a trainer near you for help.)</li>
<li>If you suspect more than mild agitation or distress, contact a trainer that is well versed in separation anxiety. For separation anxiety cases I highly recommend <a href="https://malenademartini.com/">Malena DeMartini</a> or one of her <a href="https://malenademartini.com/for-owners/how-we-help/">certified trainers</a>, they are truly experts in separation anxiety.</li>
<li>Always make tons of great things happen while Fluffy is in the crate, door closed.</li>
<li>Utilize the crate for all meals and yummy chew items. None of these should be available outside of the crate.</li>
<li>Work on <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Susan-Garretts-Crate-Self-Control-Motivation/dp/B0013GJJG6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501537900&sr=8-1&keywords=crate+games">Crate Games</a> for about 10 minutes 2 x a day.</li>
<li>If you can't seem to do all this on your own, or have specific questions, call in a pro! <br /><i>(Need help locating a pro, try one of these organizations: <a href="http://iaabc.org/consultants">IAABC</a>, <a href="https://www.petprofessionalguild.com/Findyourmember">PPG</a>, <a href="https://www.karenpryoracademy.com/find-a-trainer">KPA</a>, <a href="https://www.apdt.com/">APDT</a>)</i></li>
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<b>Stacy Greer</b></div>
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