Crate Training Truths & Tips.

Crate training is often as hot a topic as politics!  So keep in mind that I'm just one professional trainer in an industry of many across the globe ... but I love, love, love crate training.  I think everyone should do it, regardless of breed or age of the dog being crate trained.

Oh and before I get started, don't forget to read my previous blog post, "Potty Talk" on potty training Do's, Don'ts and How-To's.

The truth is that it's all about the approach, training and use of the crate.  Let me start with the benefits of the use of a crate and then we can do the things to be aware of that could lead to problems. You are your dog's person; only you can decide if this is what you think is best for you and your dog. However, I'll tell you that crates are awesomesauce.

Before I get into the benefits and details of crate training, let me touch on some dogs that may not be able to be crated.  Dogs that have Separation Anxiety (SA) cannot be crated, at least not in the beginning. After a protocol from a pro in treating SA, they usually can be but usually not at first.  SA is very often mis-labeled and mis-diagnosed, and even mis-treated with the wrong protocols, so be sure to read up on it via this website, the SA authority: malenaprice.com. If you suspect SA in your dog please, please contact someone from Malena Price's website ASAP. 

BENEFITS TO CRATE TRAINING.

1) Potty training.

If your puppy is learning the ins and outs of potty training this will be, hands down, the fastest way to accomplish this quickly and successfully.  This even applies to adult dogs that need to be house trained.

The crate is a tool that helps the dog learn to "hold it" so that it will only go potty where it should when taken out of the crate. (See my blog post on potty training.)

When done correctly, crate training let's the dog understand that his crate is his home, a place to keep clean and relax in.  It is not a potty area.

2) Boundaries & safety.

Every dog needs boundaries, just like children.  A crate is a safe, secure and comfy place for your puppy or dog to learn this.  For puppies that are into everything this is a tool that prevents them from running around and getting into trouble, chewing things when they shouldn't and the like.  Same with curious dogs too, even if they aren't puppies.

If supervision isn't able to be accomplished due to busy schedules or someone being out of the home, then a crated dog is a safe dog.  They cannot get into trouble or mischief if they are crated.

3) Place to relax & decompress.

All dogs need a place to relax, get away & decompress.  Just because they are dogs and our pets doesn't mean they don't want some alone time every now and again.  

This is especially vital with puppies as they are growing and developing they need a lot of "down time" to decompress as they can become overstimulated quickly.  Even some adult dogs can become overstimulated and need a place to decompress.  

Got kids, toddlers and/or babies in the home or coming into the home? Then this is definitely a must for when things get a little hectic and you need to allow Fido to go decompress and relax, alone.

4) Dog is ill/injured.

If your dog is ever ill or injured a properly crate trained dog will benefit hugely from being crated during this time.  Some dogs require long periods of rest, like dogs undergoing heartworm treatment or nursing a broken leg.  This could mean several weeks of crate rest.  A crate is a wonderful tool to use because it's comfy and safe for the dog to be in so that they can heal properly.

5) Holidays/parties.

This actually goes along with #3 but I like to make it a separate category.  There are many holidays throughout the year that are more chaotic than others -- New Year's, Fourth of July (for USA), Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas.  During holidays and/or parties usually there are either lots of noises and chaos outside or in the home with guests moving about and coming and going.  

These times are critical times for dogs to have a place go to relax, be alone, be comfortable and be away from the chaos.  There are also several specific protocols for these holidays to ensure your dog is not anxious and can remain cool and collected while resting in her crate in a safe area of the home.

6) Travel & staying away from home.

Traveling, especially if going on a long distance trip, is safest for your dog if he's in a secure crate.  Also, if visiting somewhere such as a dog-friendly hotel or even another person's home, it is beneficial (and polite) if your dog is able to be crated in another room of someone's home or quietly in a dog-friendly hotel room.

7) Behavior modification, foster dogs & new dog introductions.

Behavior Modification -- Crates are hugely beneficial during behavior modification programs when dogs need to be separated, when dogs should be rotated (one out, one in) and for other reasons that would be laid out in specific training protocols on a case by case basis.

Foster Dogs -- If you foster dogs it's a must to have a crate for the foster dog.  They should always have time to decompress and stay in a place that's quiet and safe away from the rest of your other dogs and other family members.  There is an entire protocol for this and you should contact me if you need information and details.  However, foster dogs shouldn't be brought in and just tossed into your mix of things.  

New Dogs to the home -- If you are adding a new puppy or dog to your home with an existing dog (or dogs) it is vital to have a crate for the new dog (hopefully your current dog[s] are crate trained as well) to retreat to, stay in during the introductory period.  Again, an entire protocol is laid out when this applies to your home so I won't go into details.  If this applies to your home please contact me to get a protocol in place before adding the new dog.

THINGS TO BE AWARE OF.

As you can see the benefits of crate training are many.  However, there are some things that could happen, albeit usually totally avoidable, and some more on the doubtful or rarely an issue side of things.  I'm still going to list them all because they are a possibility if you aren't aware.  

1) Entanglement.

Some dogs can become entangled, when wearing a collar, in a wire crate. Worst case scenario is a dog strangles themselves this way. This is totally avoidable by taking off your dog's collar each time you put your dog in a crate.

2) Trapped in a housefire.

Obviously this isn't going to be something you could predict but also this isn't going to be a common occurrence, if ever.  But it could happen.  For this to be avoided, always have a plan in the event that you have a house fire while you are not home.  In this instance [having a plan], crating your dog can actually be beneficial if done properly. Have the plan written down and given to neighbors.  Here is a great resource for how to lay out a plan for your dog in the event of a house fire.

3) Incorrect size/use.

If you have a crate that is too small or too large they could both be a hindrance.  When potty training a crate should be the perfect size (more later on this) and not too big.  For dogs confined for longer periods you may want one a tad larger so they can stretch out as much as possible for comfy naps. 

Misuse is also something you should avoid.  This would include a dog being crated for more than 8-10 hours at a time, on a consistent basis, without a break.  I know many people work full days, in this case it is important that you try to hire a dog walker to come in at least once a day to let your dog out for a bit to potty and get some exercise or engagement of some kind.  Sometimes neighborhood teens or some other resource can do this for really cheap (or free) if a dog walker isn't in the budget.

CORRECT SIZES & TYPES OF CRATES.

Crate sizes.

Having the correct size of crate for your dog is very important, especially since it can differ depending on what it's used for.  For example, when putting a puppy in one for crate training purposes I often see people getting far too large of crates for the puppy which leaves room for puppy to have accidents inside the crate and create a habit of going potty inside a crate, totally opposite of what you want to use a crate for.  

So, for potty training purposes the crate should fit the dog just right.  For large breed dogs you could get a large crate and they often come with dividers (usually only the wire crates do) so that you can section off the crate and let it "grow" with your puppy.  If you have a plastic crate then dividers are more difficult to use in them.  So this is when you want to get the correct size of crate.  Measure your puppy from head to tail base (not end of tail) and add 3-5 inches.  That's the length of crate you need.  You will need to watch your puppy grow and adjust the crate size accordingly, which means purchasing a new one when the time is right.

If your dog is reliably holding it while in the crate then you could get a crate that is a tad bigger than the potty training crate size as recommended above.  This just allows your dog to stretch out more.  It's also good to note that some dogs like being curled up in a small space so this may or may not make a difference to your dog.  So just make a judgment call on that.

Which brings us to which type of crate to use.  You should know this is a complete personal choice. There isn't one type of crate that is really better for crate training than another.  There are 3 main types -- wire, plastic and soft.  The soft crate shouldn't be used until your dog is fully crate trained and is happy and safe in a crate.  They can be torn through and eaten through in a jiff!  So that should be out unless you're past the stage of training.  That leaves the wire crate and the plastic, airline crates. 

Wire crates.

Wire crates are airy, dogs can see out on all sides and they are really easy to tote around. They fold flat when broken down and can fit into a trunk or back of a vehicle easily.  They come with dividers that make it easy to section off the right size while potty training your growing puppy.  The crate pan is replaceable and it's easy to attach water buckets or bowls to the inside of it.  It's not super easy to clean out and sanitize, in comparison to the plastic crate.

Plastic/Airline crates.

Plastic crates are thicker, less noisy (when dogs move around) and if a dog has an accident it will hold the accident instead of allow it to seep out of the sides.  They don't break down as easily as wire crates and aren't as easy to fit in places.  They can be sturdier than wire crates for dogs that are strong, unless you get larger gauge wire on the wire crates (special order).  They don't come with a divider so if you have a puppy you'll need to buy several to accommodate the puppy as it grows. It's easy to clean out and sanitize, compared to the all wire crates.

HOW TO GET YOUR DOG USED TO THE CRATE.

The best way to get your dog to love her crate is to get Susan Garrett's online course, Crate Games and watch and follow it.  Yeah I know you wanted me to list specific stuff here but honestly this little course is a game changer. It's superb. You need to get it. Actually even if your dog is already crate trained you should watch it, and follow it. It's fantastic!

Helpful tips.

1) Don't use the crate only for absences.

This is the single most important thing you can do.  Dogs need to know that being in a crate is a safe place and not only used when you are away.  This helps set your dog up to be quiet and secure when you need to utilize it for some of the benefits listed at the beginning of this blog post.

2) Feed your dog all meals in the crate.  

Feeding your dog in the crate will help your dog make good associations with the crate.  It can also help with puppies who often get too distracted to finish their meals and wander off after just taking a few bites.

3) Invest in a cover.

Some dogs do much better if the crate is covered. They make crate covers that fit crates perfectly or you can use an old blanket or sheet.  Some dogs don't care for the cover but for many it's a great way to help them quiet and/or feel secure and safe.

4) Take it slow.

Don't rush crate training, especially if it's totally new to you and the puppy or dog. While working on the crate training you can utilize a Safe Area that is a large x-pen with a crate (door open) with a bed, grass potty patch, toys and water. 

5) Don't be afraid to use it.

People so often read so much on the don'ts of crate training, including not to over-use it.  I find this scares people a lot and the end up under-using it, especially with puppies.  When a puppy or dog cannot be supervised it should be crated.  If a puppy is over-stimulated, it should be crated. If a dog is not trusted free in the home, it should be crated. 

Step-by-step guide to crate training.

My favorite article on steps to positively crate train your dog are written by of of my faves, Casey Lomonaco.  You can find her article on clickertraining.com here, under the title "Keeping the Holiday Peace".  It's a crate training piece, not geared to discuss holidays.

GETTING OUT OF THE CRATE STAGE
The biggest question I get from dog owners [about crates] is -- When can my dog not use the crate anymore?  The answer is -- it depends on your dog.  Each dog is different, and some are trustworthy early on (I've known some as early as 9 months of age) while others aren't trustworthy until they are well into adulthood (I've known some as late as 2+ years).

The best way to gauge it is to test it by leaving your dog un-crated for a very short period -- say 10 minutes -- and come back and check things out.  Was there any destruction, any potty accidents, any signs of stress?  Even if just one magazine was ripped up then I'd back up and use the crate a bit longer.  For some crating might be for life and for some crating is just safer and a way for the dog to feel more secure, forever.  It's just going to depend on each individual dog.

Stacy Greer, CPDT-KA

Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

sunshinedog.com

Potty Talk.

Let's talk about potty problems.  I'll start with this ... if your adult dog is medically sound and you have potty issues the problem isn't the dog, it's the human(s).  Potty training is 99% a human problem not a dog problem.  The other 1% is dogs with medical conditions* that may contribute to potty problems. Puppies fall into a different category but ... still, even puppy potty mishaps can be avoided with proper supervision, consistency and diligence.  Read on ...

Dogs (of all ages) have to be taught where to potty appropriately.  This means some commitment and dedication on your part as the dog's owner.  You'll need to take the dog out, wait for potty and then praise after the deed is done.  There really is no other reliable way to get a dog to learn where to appropriately go potty.

The best, quickest and most reliable way to potty train your dog is to crate train it.  The crate is used to keep dog safe and secure so that he cannot run around and have accidents where he shouldn't.  The crate trains the dog (when done properly) to hold it and wait to potty where you have designated as appropriate, not to potty in the crate.

Let's discuss a few myths surrounding potty training and crate training.

MYTH: Limiting water will help prevent accidents. 
TRUTH: Limiting water can actually cause more potty problems (and health problems, possibly) than what you're wanting.  When you limit water a dog will then drink a whole lot when the dog does get access to water.  This then fills up the kidneys quickly and therefore the body will eliminate it more frequently.  When the dog has water at all times (yes even in a crate, safe area or wherever it may be confined to) they will learn to regulate their intake and will then be able to regulate their urine outflow.

Preventing water to some extent can possibly lead to dehydration as well, which can cause a whole hose of issues which will definitely compound potty troubles. Suggestions are to leave water out at all times as well as adding some liquid to the dog's diet if they are fed a commercial diet. You can add some bone broth to the meals, water or even a little bit of canned food.

MYTH: Rubbing your dog's nose in it will teach the dog that it's wrong to go inside the house.
TRUTH:  This has to be the oldest trick known to dog training.  However it's very inaccurate advice and will not help during potty training, often causing your dog to sneak away and potty when you aren't looking.

Rubbing a dog's face in an accident or pointing out and telling them they are bad, really pretty much does nothing towards training goals.  It will likely make the dog run from you when it sees you coming to attempt to avoid having it's face shoved in pee or poop. I mean ewwww, who enjoys that?!  Dogs just don't possess the ability to comprehend, "Ah! I peed here 10 minutes ago and now I'm getting in trouble for it. I shouldn't choose to do this again!"

Dogs learn by association and timing is everything.  So, if the dog isn't literally caught "in the act" then anything after that is pointless, and quite frankly your fault for not paying closer attention to your dog.

What your dog will learn is that every time he goes outside and potties he gets praised.  This is how positive reinforcement works.  You give something to the dog to increase the likelihood of the behavior being repeated.  Therefore, your dog will learn that pottying in the location where you praise her for going is the best course of action!

When you do catch your dog "in the act" just quickly interrupt the behavior, "hey!" and get the dog to the approved potty area you have chosen.  Then praise after the deed is completed.

MYTH: A doggie door and/or another [already potty-trained] dog will teach your dog to go outside.
TRUTH: A doggie door is a way for your dog to get outside and back in, nothing more.  If you have not taught your dog that going outside is appropriate then the doggie door isn't going to do that for you.

If you have another dog that reliably potties outside that doesn't mean your dog will just watch and go as well.  I have heard of this happening from others, but never have had it happen in my experiences. Again, your dog has to be specifically taught where the appropriate location is to potty.

MYTH: Dogs can pee or poop out of spite.
TRUTH: If your dog is going potty as a new behavior and you think this means your dog is "mad at you" then we need to evaluate what's going on.  Dogs don't possess the ability to be spiteful.  The most common reason a dog will start to potty inappropriately is due to anxiety and/or stress to a new situation or one that has manifested into an anxiety-inducing situation for the dog.  However, this could also be due to a medical problem as well. This should always be checked first by a veterinarian and secondly by a qualified behavior consultant that understands dog behavior.

When this occurs this isn't usually even the dog relieving himself but rather anxiety marking.  This can be done by any gender of dog, not just males, as well as dogs that have been spayed/neutered.

MYTH: All dogs should be potty trained reliably by 6 months of age.
TRUTH:  There is no age that your dog will magically be potty trained.  Some breeds take longer than others so to put a blanket statement on a time frame would be inaccurate.

Size often isn't a factor either. I know that Greater Swiss Mountain dogs are a breed that can take some time to potty train according to breeders and owners of these large gorgeous dogs.  They are usually 85 lbs and up to 120 lbs.  So they are large dogs!   While Great Danes are famously known for their ease and speed of potty training.  I recall my Dane was reliably potty trained by 10-11 weeks of age.  I didn't believe all the breeders I spoke with that always told me they were super fast and potty trained so quickly.  However, I had that experience myself.

Smaller breeds are notoriously known for taking longer, some more than others, such as Bichons and Yorkies. I do believe their very tiny bladders don't help them out in this area either!

But even with all that said, each dog is individual and each can take their own time.  Also, owner commitment and consistency are the biggest factors in a reliably potty trained dog.

WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO DO THIS QUICKLY?!
There is no way to fast track potty training.  Also, intelligence has no bearing on potty training. I often hear from clients that their dog must not be "smart" because the potty training is taking so long.  Usually other factors are hindering the process not a low doggie IQ!

DEFINE THE APPROPRIATE POTTY AREA
I always ask my clients -- Where do you want your dog to be going to the potty in say a year from now? This is where you need to take your dog each time during the training process to eliminate.  

IMPORTANT TIPS FOR SUCCESS 
1) Crate train, crate train, crate train. 
This is the best way to reliably house train your puppy and even your adult dog.  The crate is used as a tool to help your dog understand that she has to hold it until let out to the appropriate potty area.  The crate is used as a tool to help the puppy have a safe, warm and dry place to sleep and be put away when supervision isn't possible.
(Crate woes? Contact a trainer ASAP for help!)

Safe Area with grass patch.

2) Never put potty pads or a potty area inside the crate.  
Never put something that encourages a puppy or dog to go potty inside of a crate. The crate is not a potty, it's a home!  I've seen some people section off the crate with a potty pad/area on one end. Nope. Nope. Nopety. Nope.

3) Don't use potty pads.  Ever. 
This is a controversial one as some trainers do recommend these in some circumstances. I don't. Ever.  Potty pads have never, in my almost 18 years of training dogs, been a successful tool for potty training.  Often they work for a very short time until the dog either starts to use the potty near them but not on them or eats them.  After the potty pads are removed more often than not the dog will still go potty where the pad was, religiously too!  So, if you have pads in your home on the floor somewhere that will become your dog's regular potty area.

4) Use a Safe Area if needed.  
If you cannot get home to let a dog out every 4 hours (especially if you have a puppy under 5-6 months of age) or you live in an apartment/highrise you may want to look into a Safe Area.  This is a space blocked off by an x-pen with a potty patch of grass on one end and a bed, toys and water on the other.  Similar to the one in the pic above (I'd have the bed further away from the potty patch.)

My all time favorite potty patch is Fresh Patch.  It's real grass that they send new rolls of grass to you when yours needs to be replaced.  More realistic [than fake grass] for dogs that need to learn to transition to outdoor potty habits or that go outdoors as well as in the x-pen.

bulldog puppy with Fresh Patch

5) Go out to potty area with your dog. Every. Single. Time.
Far too many times this is where the potty training fails, completely.  This is the make or break rule right here! You must go out with your dog to be able to witness and praise when your dog goes potty.  This is the key to teaching your dog where to go appropriately. Watch, wait, then praise. 

6) Supervise like a helicopter mom (or dad!)
Don't let a puppy out of sight.  Stop a puppy during play (about 10-15 minutes in) and take out to go potty regardless of behavior.  Take puppy out upon waking from any type of sleep, before leaving the house and before going to bed (even naptime).  This is especially critical for really small dogs (under 15 lbs) and/or puppies under 5 months of age.  If you cannot supervise a puppy (even for 10 minutes) put the puppy in the Safe Area or crate the puppy.

For adult dogs that need to learn to potty in an appropriate location, take them to the designated potty location every 30-60 minutes for the first few weeks of being in your home. Gradually increase the time between potty breaks as they become more accustomed to it and/or show reliability.  Crate when unable to be supervised.  Follow the rules for a puppy with adult dogs as well -- Take dog out upon waking from any type of sleep, before leaving the house and before going to bed (even naptime).

7) Be consistent. 
Every single person that interacts with your dog must be consistent with the potty habits you've started.  If someone cannot supervise a young puppy or maintain the routine you've put into place then be sure the puppy or dog is crated so that no accidents or setbacks can occur in their care.

8) Setbacks might happen.  Medical issues might too.*
Be prepared for setbacks and accidents in the beginning.  Keep your cool. Just stick with it. If it's taking longer than you feel it should or your dog starts to have potty accidents out of character then always seek the help of a veterinarian to rule out a medical cause for potty problems.

This applies to puppies and dogs of all ages.  UTIs are not uncommon and can be an easy fix.  There are also other medical things that could be a reason for doggie potty problems.  Discuss with your vet and don't assume that a young puppy cannot have a medical cause or a middle-aged-already-potty-trained dog cannot have a medical cause.  Some have little to no symptoms other than potty issues.  So always err on the side of caution with that before jumping to behavioral conclusions.  If medical problems are totally cleared by a veterinarian then seek the advice of a professional for help.

TROUBLESHOOTING
If all else fails, you are losing your mind [or your sleep] then please contact a trainer near you.  Potty issues are often a cause for people to relinquish their pets to a shelter.  This is very disheartening given that potty problems are totally fixable. So, when all else fails call in the pros!  

Can't afford a pro? Then go back to the beginning.  Start small, keep a potty journal, remain consistent and don't allow time for error.

Happy potty training!  Oh and don't forget to go read my next blog post, "Crate Training Truths & Tips".
---
*It is always recommended that you clear your dog of any and all medical problems if you are having a heck of a time with potty training.  Ask your veterinarian for a urinalysis and/or sterile urine culture.  If needed maybe even blood work and/or an ultrasound of the bladder.  You and your vet can figure out the best plan of action to take. 

Stacy Greer

Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

sunshinedog.com

Attention Hog.

Is your dog an attention hog ... ok, an attention-seeker? Barks demandingly? Paws at you demandingly? Whines?  If so, you're not alone.  Even better news: It's totally fixable, curable actually (which means you can make it go away for good!)

Here is the first thing you should know about attention-seeking behaviors: they are learned behaviors. This means somewhere along the way someone has reinforced them and therefore they continue because they work for the dog.

So, this means the dog's behaviors can be fixed if you change your response to the behaviors.

DEFINING ATTENTION-SEEKING BEHAVIORS
Let's discuss defining what attention-seeking behaviors are and are not.  If a dog has a need that should be met -- needs to potty, hungry, etc. -- then the need should be addressed.  However, if the dog is just demanding one of those things but it's not a need at that moment then they are in fact using at attention-seeking behaviors to gain something they desire at that exact moment.

Puppies will be an exception in many of these situations.  Young puppies, under 5 months, are especially going to be more difficult to determine if they need to go potty or if they are just wanting attention, etc.  So you'll have to really get to know your puppy to know how to differentiate between needs that should be met or if the puppy is actually being demanding. When puppies are young I often give in to the behavior, whether it's a need or attention-seeking and address it later if it does become more of an attention-seeking behavior rather than a need. (More on this below)

HUNGRY OR DEMANDING FOOD?
As far as hunger goes, we have complete control of our dogs' meals and food (or we should, read: no free feeding!).  Therefore no dog should be demanding food, ever.  If they are it's an attention-seeking behavior not an actual need. (Note: If your dog does in fact act as if they are always hungry please have a vet check, including a full blood panel just to be safe.)

This also applies to puppies. All puppies should be fed on a schedule and when younger than 5 months should be fed 3-4 times a day.  This would definitely ensure that they aren't hungry throughout the day and shouldn't have a reason to demand food.  So, if your dog is medically sound there is no reason they should be demanding food; if they are then this is an attention-seeking behavior.

NEEDS TO POTTY OR DEMANDING TO GO OUT?
Needing to go potty is going to be the most common reason for a dog barking, whining, pawing or other behaviors that would be legitimate/may not fall into the attention-seeking category as easily.  Dogs will all use different behaviors to show they need to go potty.  The problem with this is the fine line between do they really need to potty or are they just demanding to go out or get your attention?

This is where it's important for you to know your dog and take several factors into account.  Did your dog potty 10 minutes prior? Does your dog have a UTI and it is causing more frequent urination episodes? Did your dog drink water recently? Did your dog eat within an hour or so? Did your dog see a squirrel outside? Does your dog have a bit of diarrhea or upset tummy?  Does your dog know the neighbor's dog is out and want to go bark at him?

So, if you are certain your dog does not actually need to go out to relieve herself then she is likely just offering attention-seeking behaviors in the hopes that you'll let her out.

A SIDE EFFECT.
A little side effect, if you will, of dogs that get attention when they want is dogs that cannot learn to do nothing.  This really is an indirect form of attention-seeking: dogs that cannot do nothing.  When we have dogs we feel must always be engaged with us or doing something -- Oh he needs to be walked! Oh she needs to be jogged! Oh he needs to play! Oh she needs to be trained! -- then we create a dog that actually does need attention all the time or he'll drive you coo-coo-bananas. While those are all very important things to all dogs it becomes a problem when the dog is used to getting it all the time.  It can fall into the attention-seeking behavior category because they cannot just lie down and do nothing. They need attention in some form all the time.  Sadly, we create this. Giving into attention-seeking behaviors often snowballs into other things -- a dog that cannot just be ok with doing nothing and allowing you to watch TV or talk on the phone or read this blog! So, there are side effects to these types of behaviors as well.

I recommend all dogs like this should be taught how to relax on a mat. This is different than "go to your bed" or being told to go do something on cue.  This is actually teaching a dog to chill out, no their own. Nan Arthur, author of "Chill Out Fido" has a neat-o handout on this, click here.


SO, HOW DO I ADDRESS IT WHEN IT IS CERTAINLY ATTENTION-SEEKING BEHAVIOR?!
Ok.  So now you're pretty sure you know how to define if your dog actually needs something or is demanding it (using an attention-seeking behavior to get what he wants).  The big question now is -- So how do I get my dog to stop being annoying?!

Quick answer:  Do nothing.
Explained: Do not look at your dog, do not talk to your dog, do not pet your dog, do not touch your dog, do not tell your dog to "go away", do not tell your dog to "go lay down", do not tell your dog to "sit" . . . you get the idea. Don't do anything, literally, do nothing. Ignore the dog fully and completely.

When you chose the Ingore Method: It's not easy to do this because ignoring a demanding dog is very difficult.  Most people have a very hard time doing this.  The dog is being annoying. Not, only this, if you do in fact start to ignore the dog the behavior will increase before it ceases completely.  These are the laws of psychology.  There is something called an extinction burst.  An extinction burst is a predictable and common blast of defiance from the recesses of a brain denied familiar rewards.  The brain makes a last ditch effort to return to it's old ways.  

So you're drudging along, ignoring like a champ, the dog finally stops quicker than normal and you feel like you're making great headway ... then suddenly the dog starts barking and scratching you.  Possibly even one of those behaviors isn't one that he did before.  You think -- forget this, it's not working! Look! Now he's scratching at me, he never did this before!  But alas, this actually is great news. This means your dog is trying hard to make that last attempt to break you.  A last attempt to get what he wants -- he's going through an extinction burst.  This means your efforts are working! Do not give up! Keep up the good work!

If you cannot ignore the dog (because it's just so hard!) or you have neighbors that aren't going to be willing to suffer while you let the barking go extinct ... there is a Plan B! Calmly and gently put your dog in his crate.  So, basically, you're putting your dog in a time-out. It should be done properly. Don't yell at your dog and say "No!" then grab her and shove her in the crate. Do this quietly and without any emotion behind it.  Just calmly grab your dog's collar and guide them to their crate, safe area or even a bathroom where you can shut them inside. (No, this won't cause problems with associations with the crate if you do it as I am describing.) Leave your dog in the time-out for about a minute and then let them out without any conversation or engagement from you.  

Here is a handy little chart you can use for a what to do and what not to do.

DOG’S ACTION/BEHAVIOR	WHAT YOU SHOULD DO	WHAT YOU SHOULD NOT DO
puts paw at/on you, our nudges you to elicit attention	if sitting, stand up, walk out of the room; if standing turn & walk away	look at, pet, talk to or push the dog
whines or barks for attention/because he wants something or attention	if sitting, stand up, walk out of the room; if standing turn & walk away	tell the dog to be quite, look at, pet or acknowledge the dog in any way
drops a toy at your feet or in your lap to elicit play or games	if sitting, stand up, walk out of the room; if standing turn & walk away	look at, pet, talk to or push the dog
nips, mouths or grabs your hand/foot/clothing/shoes	put dog in crate, quietly & calmly  OR quickly get up & walk to the nearest room, close the door behind you, leave dog on other side of the door for 30 sec—1 min	pull away, push the dog away, yell, scream, look at, pet or acknowledge the dog in any way

TROUBLESHOOTING.

• What happens when you do the above and the behavior is still strong or your dog starts a new annoying behavior in its place?
• As stated above this often happens when things are in fact working and an extinction burst occurs. This indicates that your efforts are working and your dog is trying a last attempt to get what he wants.  You must remain strong, keep doing what you're doing, which should be a Professional Ignorer. 
• What happens when I just cannot ignore the barking? It's incessant!!
• I totally empathize with this. It's super hard to ignore a barking dog. It bothers me to no end, so I get it.  However if you cannot ignore the behavior then you'll have to face the reality that it will continue, plain and simple. 
• Plan B: You can always do the Time-Out Method!
• I live in an apartment, so ignoring my dog that is barking is going to be hard.  Any creative ideas?
• This does present a problem as neighbors may not be too keen to suffer through your new training regime.  
• Plan B: You can always do the Time-Out Method! This is great for apartments & tough situations like this ... or just if you are ready for this to be done with & ignoring is taking far too long!

If none of the above seems to work for you, it's going to be hugely beneficial that you find a trainer near you to come in and help you.  Usually, attention-seeking behaviors come with a few other things that could be tweaked to benefit the dog long term. A qualified professional could help you figure out the very best plan for you and your dog.

Happy training from your favorite red-headed dog trainer in Texas. 

Stacy Greer

Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

sunshinedog.com

We tried that. It didn't work.

 Nelson is a 4 years old Goldendoodle. He runs off when the door opens. He doesn't come back when he's called. He often doesn't respond when asked to do things.  Does Nelson sound like a dog you know?

Nelson's case is a common call I get as a professional dog trainer.  He's been practicing unwanted behaviors his whole life.  The owner is at wits end and has decided to find a professional to help.  Great!  I love these cases because once they start training the dog often responds quickly and does very well.  

However, the downside to these cases is that the owner is at their wit's end and they are tired.  

I get that. It's frustrating to have a dog that seems to be a pain to live with.  Sometimes a spouse/partner is tired of the dog and it is a source of tension in the relationship.  This causes even more stress. I do empathize.

So by the time I get the call the owner is really ready for results.  What they don't often grasp is the fact that the dog has had a long time, often months or years, to practice poor behaviors.  This is called the Matching Law.  So if your dog has barked at every stranger that walks in your door for 6 months it will take some time of the dog not barking at strangers that walk in the door before the behavior is extinguished . . . and that's not all of it . . . you have to find a desired behavior that receives [positive] reinforcement and rewards to replace the barking behavior.  

With all this said, my point: there is no quick fix.

This is why training your dog several times a week, consistently, is important.  It is also important to implement your trainer's advice as they lay it out for you.  Once a week training only when your trainer is there or if you are in a class isn't going to get you the desired results you had in mind.

This is also when I hear a lot of "Oh we tried that, it didn't work", or "We tried Suzie Q Trainer and she didn't help us."  While this can be true sometimes, most of the time this means the owner didn't see immediate results, didn't practice or carry out training as they should have, or all of the above.  

I tell all my clients -- you don't need hours a day to work with your dog, you can achieve success with 5-10 minute training sessions daily or every few days, a couple times a day. That's it.  I also explain how owners can incorporate training into daily life.  If you are washing the dishes at the sink you can easily practice your dog's "get on your mat" cue, or durations [staying for longer periods of time], or  stay-out-of-the-kitchen-and-wait-on-your-bed-in-the-living-room-until-I-tell-you  -- the possibilities are vast.

Anyone can train their dog.  A trainer is highly recommended for much needed guidance.  Just plan accordingly and keep your expectations realistic for your dog and your trainer.  

If you try something and it "doesn't work" ask your trainer.  I like to tell people nowadays to video themselves working on what they are struggling with and let me view it to offer help.  This can be a great way for you to watch yourself and catch your own mistakes (secret revealed: I find mistakes in my videos of myself all the time!) or your trainer to catch something you didn't see.  

So don't be discouraged. Find a trainer that you mesh with, you believe in what they are teaching, how they are teaching it and helping you as you hoped they would.  

In the Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas metroplex? Look me up! 

Stacy Greer

Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior
#sunshinedogtraining

"Oh, you're a dog trainer? That must be so fun!"

As most of my blog posts are, this one was inspired by a few things this past weekend after I attended a conference for dog trainers.  The first spark in my brain was fired off when I was talking to a client before I left town and said to her, "I'll call you when I get back in town, I'm leaving for a dog trainers' conference this weekend..." to which she responded by laughing and saying "A dog trainers' conference?! [insert laughter]"  I really wasn't what I'd call "offended" but it did hit a chord with me that my profession is often regarded as a fun job and one that cannot be all that serious.  I mean after all we do work with fun, fuzzy dogs, right ... how serious can it be?!

So I want to tell you lovely people of the world about dog trainers.  This is how we work. This is what we do. This is how we do it. Every day. I'm fairly certain I speak on behalf of many, if not all, dog trainers that do this as a full-time job (and even those that do it part-time!).

We care about you. 

We care about your dogs. This is why we do it.

We move our schedules around to accommodate for our lesson with you.

We read your info, we take notes and we plan on how to help.

We drive however far we plan to in order to get to you.

We work with you to the best of our ability, attempting for more than that.

We go home and think about you, about your dog.

We lay in bed at night and think "Oh man! I should have told her this!" "Oh my gosh! What about that?!"

We rub shampoo in our hair the next day while we shower and we think "Oh no, what if she didn't like that advice?!" "I totally need to email her and tell her to do this!"

If we get an email or phone call from an upset client we ramble in our brains how to help. 

We toss and turn at night trying to pin-point what went wrong.  How could we have done better?

We rush home from lunch to find a time to get back to that email or follow up on that phone call.

We thrash around things in our brains "Oh no! Fluffy I was sure was doing great. What happened? What did I do wrong? Oh I forgot that piece of advice to give! Crap! I didn't shoot that handout off to her!"

We brain storm more. We stuff that sandwich in our mouth. We re-heat the coffee cup (for the 3rd time).
We look in our brains for ways to give better help, better advice.

We look for an open spot in our schedule to get to your house quickly. 

We lay in bed that night, again, and hope that day's advice is helpful. 

We wonder if things are working out as planned.

We wonder if you'll leave a good review on Yelp or Facebook or tell your vet about us.

We wonder if you'll write a nasty email because we weren't good enough.

We wonder if you'll follow through and email us if you are struggling.

We smile at the success-in-progress emails you send us! (These are our favorites!)

We hope to receive emails with questions, if you have any. (We love these too!)

We cry when we receive the hard emails, the hard cases.

We cry when you cry. 

We cry when we can't help. (We cry a lot!)

We cry when you are unsatisfied.

We cry more when we get nasty emails.

We feel like failures, sometimes more than we should.

We love your dogs.
We look at our schedule and smile "Oh! I get to see Fluffy today!"
We like margaritas. (Ok at least I do!)
We like to laugh.
We like to make you laugh.
We love how much you love your dog.
We love that you called us!
We love that you want what is best for Fido.
We want what is best for Fido too!
We love the work you put in, and we put in, and Fido puts in, every single day.
We love the product of everyone's work!

We wake up. We do it again. And again. And again.

We go through everything you do whether your job is a mother, a painter, a lawyer, a doctor, a plumber, an engineer, an artist, a teacher, a therapist, a truck driver ... Our job is full of difficulties and successes, just like yours is.  It's full of joy and happy endings.  It's full of tears and sad endings sometimes too.  It may be full of more slobbers and hair than yours is but it's still just like your job in so many ways.

This is a dog trainer.  .... I wouldn't have it any other way!

My dog won't stop jumping on people! Help! (Part III)

DOGS THAT JUMP ON PEOPLE.
This is a 3-part blog series. This is Part III of III.
If you missed Part I and Part II it is recommended that you go back and read them first.  They have important information for you to follow in order to have these training plans be successful.  You can find Part I here and Part II here.

In Part I we discussed why dogs jump on people.  Now that we've discussed that we can move onto the beginning stages to get your dog to choose to do a more appropriate behavior when greeting people, rather than jumping.  In Part II we discuss the protocols you need to have in place and implement before starting the actual training process.  This is very important to do, if you do not do the protocols prior to training the training will not be successful. So be sure you've read Part I and Part II before continuing with this post, Part III.

FOR YOUNG PUPPIES THAT JUMP
If you have a puppy it's very easy to stop this behavior from growing into a real problem. I'd say this would apply if your puppy is under (4 months) 16 weeks of age. If your puppy is older than 4 months it may be a little more difficult only because the behavior has been reinforced for a while. Although it would still be easy with a young dog to work on this because they have not had months or years of reinforcement.  Working on this with puppies is a must in my book and is so very easy to do and will prevent a habit from ever forming.

So, if you have a puppy start by never ever touching your puppy or talking to him when he's jumping. Never. Read that again. This is easy to read and understand but it's often not in the front of our brains when in fact a darling little 10 week old puppy is jumping on us to say "hi". If you touch, talk to or look at a dog you could be reinforcing behavior. Instead when a puppy approaches you immediately stop petting the puppy if it starts to jump. Toss treats behind the puppy and reward the pup in any way that reinforces it for being on the floor and not jumping.

Reinforce the heck outta "sit". If a puppy sits you better be ready to reward it. Teach the puppy sit = happy and wonderful things, especially when the puppy sits before greeting or upon greeting someone.

You do the above with puppies and you'll be well on your way to a dog that doesn't jump on people!

Emily Larlham of Dogmantics Dog Training and kikopup YouTube channel has a great video on this as well. You can find that here.

FOR OVER-EXCITED GREETERS
If your dog just cannot contain her joy at the thought of a new person coming to greet her and seemingly loses her ever lovin' mind .... um, you've got your work cut out for you! ha! But no really, don't be too worried. You can do this, it's just going to be critical to follow the protocols in Part II to get this type of dog ready to meet people without making a scene.

First, implement protocol #4 from Part II, which is start training in a sterile environment when guests aren't around. The first thing this dog needs to learn is how to relax. I find when I talk about this people think this sounds crazy. "Exactly how is this going to help my dog learn to greet others without jumping?!" Well because these dogs are usually wound up pretty tight and even if the dog isn't jumping on those people that live with her the dog has an internal issue with relaxation, as in, it's not really all that great unless the dog is tired. Sometimes these dogs need to be super tired, sometimes just a little bit. Either way these types of jumpers need to learn to relax and by "learn" I mean it needs to be taught.

Teaching a dog to relax on a mat is not the same as telling a dog to go lie on a bed and "stay". That's not relaxing that's a dog being told what to do and for how long. Relaxing is just that, relaxing. Think of yourself on a lovely vacation where you can soak up the sun and sip a Mai Tai or cup of joe while thinking about the ocean waves around you. That's relaxed. No one is telling you what to do or how to do it or for how long. You are just out there chillin'. Your dog needs to learn to do that. You can follow this step-by-step how-to here to learn to do this. I also highly recommend Nan Arthur's book "Chill Out Fido" (who wrote the relax on a mat how-to I just referenced.) As you'll notice from the linked handout, this is an exercise you'll do daily with this dog for quite some time depending on the dog.

I would focus heavily on the relax on a mat exercises and also start this dog with training "sit" for just about anything she wants. Doing this will help her learn an automatic "sit for everything I want to get" and it will help when you want to transfer that to "oh and this also means sit for greeting others too."

Before starting I want to make note that I am assuming your dog has been taught to "sit" by being asked to do so.  They understand it to some degree even if not completely reliable.  If your dog doesn't do this, here is a great video on how to start.  If you aren't using a clicker for training you can substitute the clicker (or click) with a verbal "Yes!" followed by a treat.
(Here is an awesome video on "What is clicker training?" and also one on "How to train without a clicker")

However, with this process I like to wait for the dog to offer a sit without verbally prompting the dog to do so (again, if your dog needs help with this do it like it is done in the video linked in the previous paragraph.)  So we aren't actually teaching her to sit on [verbal] cue but rather that when the dog offers a sit as a behavior she will get what she wants.  This will create a dog that sits prior to getting something on her own.  If you verbally ask her to sit she may learn to wait to be told to sit before actually doing it.  We want her to choose to sit on her own.  You can do this by just standing there, tall (don't bend over the dog) and waiting for the dog to sit on her own.  Hold back from asking her to sit, don't say anything to her just wait for her to sit.  After she sits reward her.

I would play some games with your dog (and have everyone in the home do the same) like the following:  Have your dog sit directly in front of you, again by waiting for her to sit on her own (no verbal prompting).  You could start this by calling her over and waiting for her to sit in front of you.  Once she does, dole out 5-6 small pieces of yummy treats. Let her walk away or you walk away. Then a few minutes later do it again. Repeat this 4 times. Just simply having the dog come sit in front of you and rewarding profusely. Be sure you are verbally telling her she's good as well as handing out lots of treats after she sits. Again, have everyone in the home do this as well. Soon she'll be coming to sit in front of you on her own, and when she does you better give her whatever it is that may be rewarding to her in that moment -- yummy treats, toss a ball, hand her treats, give her dinner, pet behind her ears, whatever she likes she gets for sitting in front of you.

After she's gotten pretty good with that. Invite a friend over. If possible invite a friend that the dog has the least excited reaction to (if this is possible, some dogs react the same to everyone, some have favorites.) Prep friend for this training session, as they are about to help you with your dog's greeting skills. Put your dog away prior to the friend coming over. Have friend armed with high value treats, at least 30-40 very small ones.

Let dog into the room. As soon as your friend sees the dog have said friend toss treats away from his body (the friend's) and aiming for behind the dog or at least a distance away from the friend. The dog should stop and turn around to get the treats. When dog looks up, almost headed to greet, friend repeats tossing treats. Friend should repeat this at least 4-5 times. During all this friend needs to be standing tall (not stooping or bending over) and not speaking to the dog at all. The friend will simply toss treats behind the dog.

After about the 5th time friend has tossed treats away from himself then see what dog does. If friend is quiet and calm dog should come up to friend and sit in front of him. If she doesn't friend stands tall, doesn't engage with the dog in any way and waits. If/when dog sits, dog gets treats. Friend should remain quiet and calm throughout visit in the home. This will help immensely, especially with an over-excited greeter. After this small training session the dog should be put away to relax or if the dog is now relaxed the dog can stay out or go lie and relax on her mat.

Repeat the above exercise with same friend until dog becomes relaxed in greetings with this friend. Then add next friend, then next friend (or aunt or uncle or whatever) and so on. The dog should soon begin to generalize how to greet people in the home regardless of who it is.

It is imperative during the process that an excited greeter never gets reinforced for excited greetings. Never touch the dog (even to push the dog away!), never talk to the dog (even to say "get down!"), and do not look at the dog (turn head away or look up when dog is excited). It should be noted that if you only use these things (ignoring the dog and turning away when jumping) as your training plan it won't work.  These things alone will usually create a dog that is confused and becomes more jumpy and frustrated. So ignoring a jumping dog and waiting for the dog to just stop jumping because it realizes the jumping isn't working is not successful as a training plan. Ask me how I know this. I used to use this as the first line of defense to start to teach a dog not to jump. If you were a client of mine back in the day you likely recall me telling you this advice. However, now that I know better I do better. So, while these things should be practiced (ignoring the dog if she jumps) while training the other things (the training plan above), they must all be utilized together to actually work.

However, you must note that if you don't do the exercises above and allow the dog to become over excited and rush up to greet someone you will be setting your dog up to fail.  This is not implementing protocols in Part II, which should always be implemented.

TROUBLESHOOTING
If you have a highly excitable, over-aroused dog and you are having difficulty with working on this it could be due to a few things.

• Are you becoming frustrated and discouraged?  If so, take a step back.  Start with the relaxation exercises. Be sure you are doing these for a few weeks prior to starting the work with guests. Also, never work with a dog while frustrated, especially an over-aroused dog as this will feed the arousal and the vicious cycle will drive you mad!
• Are you setting your dog up for success?  If you are still in the early phase of the process the dog should never be allowed to greet guests, should be crated, in another room or put away so that they cannot become over-aroused/excited and practice this behavior.
• Are you jumping the gun?  Is your dog ready to start these training protocols?  Have you skipped a few steps?  If yes, then be sure you haven't!  Start and go slow. It's not going to show up like magic!

I really love the following article by Laura VanArendonk Baugh, CPDT, KPACTP of Canines In Action, Inc. in Indianapolis, Indiana on how to teach proper greetings. It is broken down into very small pieces (which is great for success) and does include steps I didn't mention, but dog training has a lot of solutions, not just one! She also has an excellent book called "Fired Up, Frantic and Freaked Out".

NOTE: As you can gather, the above training program would be much more helpful if coached by a trained professional, in person. This is also not covering some other "types" of jumpers. I addressed the over-excited ones because that's the most common.
While you can do the above on your own it would be much more successful with professional guidance.  If at any point you find yourself saying "I read this blog and followed it and it didn't work"... that's because a trainer would be a better option to help you so that you can have guidance every step of the way.
# # #

Stacy Greer of Stacy's Dog Training has trained dogs professionally in the Dallas/Ft Worth Texas metroplex for 16 years. www.stacysdogtraining.com