Counter surfing: Solved!

Counter surfing — when a dog puts its paws up on a counter and "surfs" along looking to or successfully grabbing things off of the counter.  It's an annoying problem, yet it's very common.

Obviously large dogs can do this with ease.  The biggest problem with counter surfing is that it's self rewarding without anyone even needing to be present.  Rewards work whether we are there to give them to the dog or if they reward themselves.  This is how positive reinforcement works and makes a behavior stronger.  A dog gets something rewarding [to the dog] and that behavior gets stronger.  This is beneficial when we are training a behavior that we want repeated and stronger, however, not so much if it's a behavior we don't want repeated.

So, how does one remedy this annoying habit?

1) Management — Keep your counters clean. Plain and simple, don't have a lot of stuff on your counters, especially food. Also, prevent your dog from going into the kitchen unsupervised. This might mean baby gates or crating your dog when unable to be supervised.

2) Make the floor yummy — If the floor is where good things are then the counters aren't. Completely control when your dog enters the kitchen.  Prior to entering, sprinkle yummy treats all over the floor.  Then let the dog enter.  As soon as he sees the floor has food he should start to focus on the floor more and less on the counters.

3) Train a "go to mat" cue  — Teach Fluffy to go lie on a mat in the kitchen. If and when you cannot watch Fluffy in the kitchen, or your pre-occupied, you can tell her to go lie on a mat (or bed) and stay there.  If she's lying on a mat she cannot be jumping up on counters. This is a great video on how to teach this (this is my video), and here is another video (this isn't my video) that's a little different but similar.

4) Train while in the kitchen, freely walking around. — While in the kitchen you start to toss treats on the floor sporadically.  In the beginning you'll toss treats a lot. Walk-n-toss, walk-n-toss.  If you see your dog raising his head up to sniff the counter, possibly thinking about jumping, immediately toss treats behind him so he'll choose the floor instead. Also, if you see him start to jump or sniff but re-think his choice, toss treats, one at a time (about 6-10 treats) and praise him heavily for making a wonderful choice not to surf! 

TIPS TO KEEP IN MIND

• Set your dog up to succeed.  This means don't allow your dog a chance to make the wrong choices.  Keep counters clean when Fido is in the kitchen.  Control when Fido enters the kitchen and be sure that the floor is seasoned with goodies!
• Practice makes perfect! Train this several times a day by setting it up successfully as stated above.
• Give Fluffy her own place to stay when in the kitchen. Work on the "go to mat" cue, or even get super creative and fancy by having her own dog bed carved away under the counter or kitchen island. (ideas on that here, as well as in picture.)
• When you cannot supervise or train, put Fido away. Crate Fido in another room or put him somewhere that he cannot get to the counters where this behavior is happening the most.

WHAT ABOUT THE FUTURE?

The information above provides training to get this behavior under control. If you train this consistently and as laid out above, your dog will begin to forget the counters. You won't have to do all of the above forever in order to maintain your sanity in the kitchen with your dog. Once the steps above are clear the dog will choose on her own to make good choice and stop counter surfing.

I cannot tell you how long it will take, as it will depend on your dog's history. If your dog has been counter surfing for a year, then you'll have quite a bit of work to maintain for several weeks, or months in order to get rid of the behavior.  If your dog just started this you can stop it pretty quickly. 

Remember the key to long-term success is consistency and dedication to a training plan in the beginning.  You can become lenient over time as your dog proves he's earned it!

Stacy Greer, CPDT-KA

Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

servicing the Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas metroplex

sunshinedog.com

Copyright© 2018. All rights reserved.

Stop walking your dog.

"Wait did you just say don't walk my dog? Are you crazy?!"
. . . actually, I'm pretty sane (on most days, don't ask my kids or husband they may say differently!)
The truth is I'm actually pretty good at reading dogs, understanding dog behavior and working with each individual dog on what they actually need vs what we think they need. It's pretty vital to understand these things in order to truly help dogs.

It can be a bit murky at times, i.e., understanding what dogs need vs what we think they need. Everyone assumes that all dogs need to be walked (or even more strenuous exercise than walking) everyday. This is especially true for active, young dogs as well as some specific breeds.  Let's discuss why this may not actually be beneficial to active dogs regardless of energy level or breed. 

It's been drilled into dog owners' heads that walking a dog makes them calmer, more relaxed and less likely to have behavior problems.  Hmmmm, not really.  I mean, well sort of.  Well, let me explain . . .

I'm not saying dogs don't need exercise. I'm not saying this at all. Movement and exercise is important for all creatures. So, do understand, exercise is very important for your dog.  However, it's more like a creative strategy and work of art to figure out what is best for each dog when it comes to exercise and energy outlets. Every dog is an individual, even within the same breed and/or gene pool.  

DOES YOUR DOG "QUALIFY"?
For the most part this blog post addresses the hyper, over-active, hard-to-settle-down-regardless-what-you-do types of dogs, reactive-when-on-leash (or otherwise), not the already mentally stable dogs that can relax easily.  However it is important to note that I feel this would benefit all puppies, active and working dogs; and definitely all reactive, aggressive and/or anxious/insecure dogs!

WHAT EXERCISE DOES FOR DOGS.
Exercise will get your dog in peak physical health, especially if you're doing vigorous or lengthy exercise regimes.  While this is great for your dog's health and physical well-being it might backfire for mental stability.

Usually adolescent, hyper, over-excitable and active dogs are the dogs that are exercised the most because they are the most difficult to live with.  The common thought is that the dog is super active/hyper/energetic and needs more exercise to release this energy and help "calm them down".  When in fact what usually happens is huge dumps of adrenaline the more you exercise your dog which will in turn make your dog's mental state more chaotic.  Why? Because most dogs that behave in this manner in the first place are already mentally chaotic and need more relaxation and calming exercises not adrenaline-inducing ones.

There is another problem with relying on physical exercise solely as a means to "wear your dog out", or try to live by the A tired dog is a good dog mantra. You will now create a dog that requires more and more exercise as your dog becomes more physically fit.  The dog, at first, will be tired and will likely even be "better" behaved but it will soon wear off and you're now spending your days trying to find more strenuous exercise or lengthening the time you exercise your dog in order to get the worn-down-dog-effect. (You can read more on the SuperDog Syndrome over on this blog post written by Sara Reusche at Paws Abilities Dog Training.)

DO NOTHING.
Let me say again, I'm not advocating that you burn your leashes and stop your hiking trips on the weekends.  However, I'm saying that you can relax, and should! If you don't feel like walking the dog today, don't.  She'll be ok. If you just don't have the energy to get out and have your dog run back and forth and back and forth for the ball, then don't.

Dogs get far too little training and far too few brain activities.  Lack of exercise isn't the problem I'm encountering with dogs that I work with.  It hasn't been the problem in 18 years of working with dogs. The problem is lack of proper balance between mental and physical stimulation.

It should be noted that genetics play a role in dogs' stress levels and behaviors.  Actually genetics plays a bigger role in most of our dogs' behavior(s) than I believe most know about.  Of course there are dogs with backgrounds we may never be privy to and dogs that are a mix of different genetics.  This isn't to say that we can control this all the time, it's just to say that sometimes it's not all on the dog owner that they have a dog like this, although sometimes it is.

Many people tend to walk around the dog's life instead of having the dog adjust to theirs.  It is vital to a dog's mind to learn that sometimes they can just lie around and do nothing. Nothing. Yes, nothing. Nada. Zip. Wait, why in the world do you think I should expect my high drive Labrador to lie on the rug? What about my Border Collie that doesn't sleep through the night unless I actually do something with her?

I'll get to the specifics of the what-to-do and how-to-do-it in a bit . . .

OVERAROUSAL.
Herein lies the problem. Overarousal. High energy and high drive dogs that are usually over-exercised physically or under stimulated mentally, or both, tend to be the hardest dogs to live

with. Why? Because owners are doing what they thought they should—exercising the dog every day, sometimes for long periods.  But what are they not doing? Owners are not teaching their dog to relax, chill and keep his arousal levels in check. They are also not providing some or all of the following: brain activities, training, rules, boundaries and/or consistency with most of or any of those things.

Dogs with high arousal levels will manifest their lack of ability to do nothing into behaviors that are usually very annoying to live with. This is often a dog that cannot relax or lie down peacefully for more than 10 minutes, or a dog that barks incessantly, or a dog that drops the ball at your feet every 5 minutes, or a dog that paces or whines for seemingly no reason, or a dog that is a very destructive chewer, or a dog that is reactive on-leash towards other dogs and/or people . . . there are many, many, many behaviors that manifest out of over arousal.  These dogs' arousal levels become so out-of-whack that they manifest into stress, the not-so-good kind, and you have a dog that is difficult to deal with in one way or another.  Many times these are the dogs that fill the shelters.

AROUSAL & STRESS, AREN'T THEY NORMAL?
We cannot have dogs live in a bubble, all dogs become over-aroused at some point and also stressed in various ways and situations. These are all things that happen in life; we can help our dogs overcome arousal and stress in situations—when we are given the proper tools to do so. However, too often dog owners aren't given the appropriate tools to deal with or avoid over-arousal and stress, or worse, the tools to understand what it is and what it looks like.  When this happens dogs exhibit these things too often and dog owners think this is just how the dog is and fall prey to the exercise-your-dog-more mantra.  They do not realize that they actually can have a calm and relaxed dog with the appropriate training and understanding of it all! [insert sigh of relief]

IS MY DOG REALLY IN NEED OF LESS EXERCISE?!
My first suggestion is to understand what your dog is saying and doing and why. Understanding body language and communication cues will get you very far with your dog, very, very far. Also, find a trainer that is well educated in both of these things. Not all trainers are, they should be, but many are not (if you need help with finding one let me know I'll do my best to help you get on the right track!) I cannot go into all these things on this blog. It's very dog-specific as well as many other factors. A trained eye can watch your dog and educate you on what and why of all of his behaviors by observing and working with you. 

QUIZ TIME*
Answer yes or no to the following questions.

1. Does your dog lie down at home when you are busy and leave you alone?
2. Does your dog chew things when left alone or if you aren't paying enough attention to him?
3. Does your dog bark for attention at you and/or at other dogs/people when out on leash?
4. Does your dog have a sensitive stomach and/or diarrhea often?
5. Does your dog sometimes seem "stubborn"?
6. Does your dog bother you to play constantly?
7. Does your dog not seem to wear out?
8. Does your dog sometimes not sleep all night and/or wake you in the night?
9. Does your dog get rowdy with other dogs and play rough all the time?
10. Does your dog not calm down fairly quickly and/or not at all when guests come over?

If you answered "YES" to 4 or more of those then likely your problem isn't a lack of enough physical exercise. It's more likely due to over-extended levels of over-arousal and/or over-stimulation that aren't easily able to be put in check.

*Note: You could have answered "no" and this is still your dog's issue. This isn't some magical quiz that determines this. So, please do take into account that your dog still may need to have the following protocols to benefit him or her.  A trained professional is the key here.

YOUR GOLDEN TICKET.
First thing in order is to teach your dog to do nothing ... and be ok with it. This will be your saving grace. Period, the end. Dogs like this need to learn to relax, actually they have to be trained how to do this because they don't have the ability to do it on their own. Also dogs that are exercised a lot and still seem to be unable to settle must learn this.  This is your very first line of defense!

So, before you do anything. You must do this. Train your dog to do nothing. Absolutely nothing. This teaches them that they can lie there and be ok with whatever is going on around them.  If you want to elicit play, walks, games or training you will do so.  However, if you aren't doing that then Fido should be cool with waiting and chilling while doing this.  I highly recommend two books, and really you should stop reading now and go purchase these— "Fired Up, Frantic and Freaked Out" by Laura VanArendonk Baugh, CPDT-KA, KPACTP as well as "Chill Out Fido!" by Nan Aurthur.
... Go on, get on over to amazon.  ... Ok, done with your purchases? Good. Let's move along ...

Doing this is not without work, mainly a load of calm patience and consistency. Remain cool, calm and set your dog up for success, i.e., don't put her in a situation where she can practice the behaviors you don't want.  That may mean crating him when you cannot interact or something else. But for now you are no long allowed to let your dog be hyper-crazy and demanding, if that goes along with your pooch's repertoire.

Nan Arthur (who wrote the book recommended above, "Chill Out Fido") has a PDF handout called "Relax on a Mat"* with step-by-step instructions on how to teach your dog to relax on a mat/bed (also discussed/laid out in her book). Here is a great video and description on "The Nothing Exercise" coined by Sue Sternberg.
*Please note: Relax on a Mat is not the same as teaching your dog to go lie on a mat/bed on cue (when you ask).  This exercise is to actually teach and create calmness on a mat/bed.  One is training a cue, "go to your bed!"(in training mode and brain still turned on), the other is training an emotional state (calmness/relaxation where the brain is turned off).

Also train your dog to relax calmly in a crate, behind a gate and/or in an x-pen.  I prefer the crate to all as it can be used when travelling and for many other reasons (read my blog post on crates, "Crate Training Truths & Tips").  I highly recommend utilizing Susan Garrett's "Crate Games" for this. Remarkable for teaching impulse control as well as how to love going in and being in a crate.

ENRICHMENT GAMES, EQUIPMENT & PUZZLES.
This is your next line of defense. Get your dog's brain moving. These things are great ways to do this without really doing much on your part. These can benefit the dog while you are busy and/or at work, on a phone call, etc. However ... but, but, but ... it is very important to read this next part.

This is why I wrote this blog post. You can Google all day and find mentally stimulating games and puzzles and how-to use them, etc.  You can also read all about these things being a "fix" for hyper dogs and dogs that need to chill out  more.  But here's the rub. I have worked with owners who state, "Ok so we stopped trips to the dog park and incorporated lots of brain activities and mental stimulation but we are still not exactly where we want to be."  This happens because they didn't teach the dog to relax and do nothing (see above "Your Golden Ticket").

So, it's important to go through the steps here as I wrote them out. Now, once your dog has learned some great relaxation exercises and is able to actually do nothing then you are ready to start with these fun brain activities. You can of course be doing these things at the same time you are teaching the relaxation (I don't mean the exact same time but in conjunction with the training) but you must be doing the relaxation protocol and The Nothing Exercise.

There are so many fun and engaging things you can do with your dog. Many of them are DIY things too, but there are tons of things you can purchase as well.  I couldn't possibly list them all here. So I went and made a Pinterest board full of them for you! You're welcome. I'll add to the board all the time so bookmark it and check it often for updates.

Now, how to go about this exactly ... Here is a nice little order for you to do things ... and guess what I'm adding exercise back in there!  Oh heck yeah I am!  You just had to get this far to see I'm not a total moron.

IMPLEMENT THE 8-STEP PROTOCOL: THE COOL CUCUMBER CANINE.

ONE.
Stop all the exercise you're currently doing. Yup. All of it.  If you live where you don't have a yard or area that your dog can go potty without being walked then of course walk your dog for a potty break. However do not go on an exercise walk, for now. Only potty walks.

TWO.
Feed your dog out of a food puzzle for at least 1 meal a day, if not all of them (assuming you feed 2 x a day at least.)  I'm going to attach my own handout on "Dog Puzzles" and "Kong Recipes for Fun". Feed your dog high quality food and add a doggie probiotic to his food.  The brain-gut connection is not a myth and dogs with poor diet/poor gut health often have behavior quirks at the very least and major behavior problems at the very worst. (To learn more about dog diets that are beneficial contact me for resources.)

THREE.
Work on the relaxation protocol and The Nothing Exercise as much as you can daily. This is a must, must, must. You cannot skip this step! I promise you'll thank me later for it.

FOUR.
Work on Crate Games & Impulse control exercises.  I recommend working on "It's Yer Choice" as well as "Crate Games" (full DVD here, YouTube videos Part I, Part II & Part III.)  Do this for about 5-10 minutes a day, 2-3 x a day.

FIVE.
Incorporate some enrichment toys and activities for your dog to do, perhaps while you take that conference call in the other room? Maybe you need to get dinner made? Perhaps you want to catch up on emails? Maybe you just want to sit down after work and not deal with the dog [that usually needs to be walked to possibly take the edge off?!] So find some times that your dog can do some of these activities.

When Fido has completed an activity or maybe two, then he should relax on his bed or mat for you. If you have things to take care of then Fido should be chillin' while you take care of whatever those things may be.  Do not start tossing activity after activity after activity for him. Remember we are teaching him to chill when we want but also providing adequate mental stimulation in order to work his brain.

Learn to Earn Program

SIX.
Train your dog and incorporate more impulse control exercises with training. Working on impulse control as well as some basic cues will be hugely beneficial. I really like Dr. Sophia Yin's "Learn to Earn Program" for this.
There are some other great reads as well, such as this article's link to the default sit, as well as the book "Control Unleashed" by Leslie McDevitt.
(Hire a professional dog trainer if need be for this!)

SEVEN.
Walk the dog. If you've been working on the above things and you feel confident in your new pooch and her ability to chill when needed, you can now take her out for a walk. There are rules though. The walk can be no more than 15 minutes long and should be a walk where you incorporate some training and good ole doggie sniffing. Yes. So, if your dog needs some work in the training area, then this is where a good professional is going to be invaluable for you.

In the meantime, because we all know you wanted some free help on this right, I'll lay out a few things for you to do while walking your dog. Start a timer. Do not go over 15 minutes! 

1) Work on check-ins. This is where the dog checks back with you before going out ahead or maybe when they feel a little uneasiness coming on about something.  Usually they just look up/back at you.  When this happens, click/treat (C/T) [or say "Yes!"/treat].  This should be practiced indoors, before you actually go on a walk. Then you incorporate it with your walks. Here is a handout on teaching check-ins.  Here is a video after your dog is reliable indoors/with no distractions. You can also teach the Positive Interrupter and utilize this for lots of things.

2) Do a lot of turns & backing up. Walking in a straight line is boring and also sets the dog up to pull. So unless your dog is already proficient on loose leash skills I'd definitely be doing this.  I call it dance moves. Lots of footwork when out on leash with my dogs! It keeps the dog moving while also training a good loose leash. Win-win!  I like this video and this video (this one is moi) for showing this. 

3) Let her be a dog, with permission. After making your dog work for walking next to you and check-in and all that, let your dog be a dog. The best way to do this is allow your dog to go and sniff. Sniffing for dogs is highly, highly rewarding and mentally engaging. So I usually give my dogs a cue to do this. You can come up with whatever you want to use as your cue but mine is "you're free to go" as I point away from me.  Then the dog can go to the end of the leash and sniff, sniff, sniff.  When we're done with that I say "okay, let's go!" and they should come back to my left and we start our journey back, utilizing the above steps 1 & 2. 

4) Go home. Remember all the above steps are only happening in a short time period (no more than 15 minutes) and not 3 blocks from your home. You should not go far, the main goal is this is a training walk not a way to get your dog physically tired. So just do the above for 15 minutes (or less if your dog is too out of control or not focused) and then go home. Tomorrow is a new day.

EIGHT.
Repeat steps 1-5 until your dog can be a calm, relaxed dog at home and do things on your watch.  If your dog still cannot relax when you're scrolling through Facebook or having a relaxing sit while watching Law & Order then you're not ready to up the exercise regime for your dog.  So, don't. Just don't. Rinse and repeat this whole process with a heavy focus on the relaxation exercises if you aren't getting far.

Once you're really confident in your dog's ability to relax you can slowly add in your regular exercise regime whether that be walking, jogging, hiking, agility, swimming ... whatever.  However, you must remain true to the protocol above — relaxation, mental enrichment, and training — while adding in your exercise. If you fall back into just doing physical exercise alone your dog will regress and eventually fall back into the dog you had before you started this.

You may also want to discuss if your dog would benefit from medication, if your dog is too anxious, over-stimulated too easily, etc. with your veterinarian. A well-informed, trained professional can usually tell you if your dog needs to see a licensed veterinarian, preferably a Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorist or at least a veterinarian well-versed in proper behavioral medication for such situations.  

IN CONCLUSION.
This entire blog post may have your mind spinning.  Heck it may even have you thinking -- Meh, I'll just keep doing what I've been doing, this is too much work!  However, you should know that if you can commit to doing these things you'll have a dog that is chill when you want but happy to play, run and have fun when you want as well.  You'll just build a neat-o "off switch" for your dog with this protocol. So many dogs lack that "off switch" and it's not only a tad annoying (sometimes it's super annoying!) but it's also causes some real mental chaos.  It's like your dog's brain cannot stop. It's not healthy and it's not fun to live that way either.  The reality is that your dog will not only be much easier to live with but also thank you for it because they can truly relax not only physically but mentally. 

I will say that finding a qualified dog training professional will be hugely beneficial if you have a dog like this, and if necessary a veterinarian to collaborate with your trainer for the best options.  As I mentioned before, if you need help locating a qualified professional dog trainer near you please contact me.

Stacy Greer, CPDT-KA

Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

servicing the Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas metroplex

sunshinedogtraining.com

Copyright© 2017. All rights reserved.

Crate Training Truths & Tips.

Crate training is often as hot a topic as politics!  So keep in mind that I'm just one professional trainer in an industry of many across the globe ... but I love, love, love crate training.  I think everyone should do it, regardless of breed or age of the dog being crate trained.

Oh and before I get started, don't forget to read my previous blog post, "Potty Talk" on potty training Do's, Don'ts and How-To's.

The truth is that it's all about the approach, training and use of the crate.  Let me start with the benefits of the use of a crate and then we can do the things to be aware of that could lead to problems. You are your dog's person; only you can decide if this is what you think is best for you and your dog. However, I'll tell you that crates are awesomesauce.

Before I get into the benefits and details of crate training, let me touch on some dogs that may not be able to be crated.  Dogs that have Separation Anxiety (SA) cannot be crated, at least not in the beginning. After a protocol from a pro in treating SA, they usually can be but usually not at first.  SA is very often mis-labeled and mis-diagnosed, and even mis-treated with the wrong protocols, so be sure to read up on it via this website, the SA authority: malenaprice.com. If you suspect SA in your dog please, please contact someone from Malena Price's website ASAP. 

BENEFITS TO CRATE TRAINING.

1) Potty training.

If your puppy is learning the ins and outs of potty training this will be, hands down, the fastest way to accomplish this quickly and successfully.  This even applies to adult dogs that need to be house trained.

The crate is a tool that helps the dog learn to "hold it" so that it will only go potty where it should when taken out of the crate. (See my blog post on potty training.)

When done correctly, crate training let's the dog understand that his crate is his home, a place to keep clean and relax in.  It is not a potty area.

2) Boundaries & safety.

Every dog needs boundaries, just like children.  A crate is a safe, secure and comfy place for your puppy or dog to learn this.  For puppies that are into everything this is a tool that prevents them from running around and getting into trouble, chewing things when they shouldn't and the like.  Same with curious dogs too, even if they aren't puppies.

If supervision isn't able to be accomplished due to busy schedules or someone being out of the home, then a crated dog is a safe dog.  They cannot get into trouble or mischief if they are crated.

3) Place to relax & decompress.

All dogs need a place to relax, get away & decompress.  Just because they are dogs and our pets doesn't mean they don't want some alone time every now and again.  

This is especially vital with puppies as they are growing and developing they need a lot of "down time" to decompress as they can become overstimulated quickly.  Even some adult dogs can become overstimulated and need a place to decompress.  

Got kids, toddlers and/or babies in the home or coming into the home? Then this is definitely a must for when things get a little hectic and you need to allow Fido to go decompress and relax, alone.

4) Dog is ill/injured.

If your dog is ever ill or injured a properly crate trained dog will benefit hugely from being crated during this time.  Some dogs require long periods of rest, like dogs undergoing heartworm treatment or nursing a broken leg.  This could mean several weeks of crate rest.  A crate is a wonderful tool to use because it's comfy and safe for the dog to be in so that they can heal properly.

5) Holidays/parties.

This actually goes along with #3 but I like to make it a separate category.  There are many holidays throughout the year that are more chaotic than others -- New Year's, Fourth of July (for USA), Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas.  During holidays and/or parties usually there are either lots of noises and chaos outside or in the home with guests moving about and coming and going.  

These times are critical times for dogs to have a place go to relax, be alone, be comfortable and be away from the chaos.  There are also several specific protocols for these holidays to ensure your dog is not anxious and can remain cool and collected while resting in her crate in a safe area of the home.

6) Travel & staying away from home.

Traveling, especially if going on a long distance trip, is safest for your dog if he's in a secure crate.  Also, if visiting somewhere such as a dog-friendly hotel or even another person's home, it is beneficial (and polite) if your dog is able to be crated in another room of someone's home or quietly in a dog-friendly hotel room.

7) Behavior modification, foster dogs & new dog introductions.

Behavior Modification -- Crates are hugely beneficial during behavior modification programs when dogs need to be separated, when dogs should be rotated (one out, one in) and for other reasons that would be laid out in specific training protocols on a case by case basis.

Foster Dogs -- If you foster dogs it's a must to have a crate for the foster dog.  They should always have time to decompress and stay in a place that's quiet and safe away from the rest of your other dogs and other family members.  There is an entire protocol for this and you should contact me if you need information and details.  However, foster dogs shouldn't be brought in and just tossed into your mix of things.  

New Dogs to the home -- If you are adding a new puppy or dog to your home with an existing dog (or dogs) it is vital to have a crate for the new dog (hopefully your current dog[s] are crate trained as well) to retreat to, stay in during the introductory period.  Again, an entire protocol is laid out when this applies to your home so I won't go into details.  If this applies to your home please contact me to get a protocol in place before adding the new dog.

THINGS TO BE AWARE OF.

As you can see the benefits of crate training are many.  However, there are some things that could happen, albeit usually totally avoidable, and some more on the doubtful or rarely an issue side of things.  I'm still going to list them all because they are a possibility if you aren't aware.  

1) Entanglement.

Some dogs can become entangled, when wearing a collar, in a wire crate. Worst case scenario is a dog strangles themselves this way. This is totally avoidable by taking off your dog's collar each time you put your dog in a crate.

2) Trapped in a housefire.

Obviously this isn't going to be something you could predict but also this isn't going to be a common occurrence, if ever.  But it could happen.  For this to be avoided, always have a plan in the event that you have a house fire while you are not home.  In this instance [having a plan], crating your dog can actually be beneficial if done properly. Have the plan written down and given to neighbors.  Here is a great resource for how to lay out a plan for your dog in the event of a house fire.

3) Incorrect size/use.

If you have a crate that is too small or too large they could both be a hindrance.  When potty training a crate should be the perfect size (more later on this) and not too big.  For dogs confined for longer periods you may want one a tad larger so they can stretch out as much as possible for comfy naps. 

Misuse is also something you should avoid.  This would include a dog being crated for more than 8-10 hours at a time, on a consistent basis, without a break.  I know many people work full days, in this case it is important that you try to hire a dog walker to come in at least once a day to let your dog out for a bit to potty and get some exercise or engagement of some kind.  Sometimes neighborhood teens or some other resource can do this for really cheap (or free) if a dog walker isn't in the budget.

CORRECT SIZES & TYPES OF CRATES.

Crate sizes.

Having the correct size of crate for your dog is very important, especially since it can differ depending on what it's used for.  For example, when putting a puppy in one for crate training purposes I often see people getting far too large of crates for the puppy which leaves room for puppy to have accidents inside the crate and create a habit of going potty inside a crate, totally opposite of what you want to use a crate for.  

So, for potty training purposes the crate should fit the dog just right.  For large breed dogs you could get a large crate and they often come with dividers (usually only the wire crates do) so that you can section off the crate and let it "grow" with your puppy.  If you have a plastic crate then dividers are more difficult to use in them.  So this is when you want to get the correct size of crate.  Measure your puppy from head to tail base (not end of tail) and add 3-5 inches.  That's the length of crate you need.  You will need to watch your puppy grow and adjust the crate size accordingly, which means purchasing a new one when the time is right.

If your dog is reliably holding it while in the crate then you could get a crate that is a tad bigger than the potty training crate size as recommended above.  This just allows your dog to stretch out more.  It's also good to note that some dogs like being curled up in a small space so this may or may not make a difference to your dog.  So just make a judgment call on that.

Which brings us to which type of crate to use.  You should know this is a complete personal choice. There isn't one type of crate that is really better for crate training than another.  There are 3 main types -- wire, plastic and soft.  The soft crate shouldn't be used until your dog is fully crate trained and is happy and safe in a crate.  They can be torn through and eaten through in a jiff!  So that should be out unless you're past the stage of training.  That leaves the wire crate and the plastic, airline crates. 

Wire crates.

Wire crates are airy, dogs can see out on all sides and they are really easy to tote around. They fold flat when broken down and can fit into a trunk or back of a vehicle easily.  They come with dividers that make it easy to section off the right size while potty training your growing puppy.  The crate pan is replaceable and it's easy to attach water buckets or bowls to the inside of it.  It's not super easy to clean out and sanitize, in comparison to the plastic crate.

Plastic/Airline crates.

Plastic crates are thicker, less noisy (when dogs move around) and if a dog has an accident it will hold the accident instead of allow it to seep out of the sides.  They don't break down as easily as wire crates and aren't as easy to fit in places.  They can be sturdier than wire crates for dogs that are strong, unless you get larger gauge wire on the wire crates (special order).  They don't come with a divider so if you have a puppy you'll need to buy several to accommodate the puppy as it grows. It's easy to clean out and sanitize, compared to the all wire crates.

HOW TO GET YOUR DOG USED TO THE CRATE.

The best way to get your dog to love her crate is to get Susan Garrett's online course, Crate Games and watch and follow it.  Yeah I know you wanted me to list specific stuff here but honestly this little course is a game changer. It's superb. You need to get it. Actually even if your dog is already crate trained you should watch it, and follow it. It's fantastic!

Helpful tips.

1) Don't use the crate only for absences.

This is the single most important thing you can do.  Dogs need to know that being in a crate is a safe place and not only used when you are away.  This helps set your dog up to be quiet and secure when you need to utilize it for some of the benefits listed at the beginning of this blog post.

2) Feed your dog all meals in the crate.  

Feeding your dog in the crate will help your dog make good associations with the crate.  It can also help with puppies who often get too distracted to finish their meals and wander off after just taking a few bites.

3) Invest in a cover.

Some dogs do much better if the crate is covered. They make crate covers that fit crates perfectly or you can use an old blanket or sheet.  Some dogs don't care for the cover but for many it's a great way to help them quiet and/or feel secure and safe.

4) Take it slow.

Don't rush crate training, especially if it's totally new to you and the puppy or dog. While working on the crate training you can utilize a Safe Area that is a large x-pen with a crate (door open) with a bed, grass potty patch, toys and water. 

5) Don't be afraid to use it.

People so often read so much on the don'ts of crate training, including not to over-use it.  I find this scares people a lot and the end up under-using it, especially with puppies.  When a puppy or dog cannot be supervised it should be crated.  If a puppy is over-stimulated, it should be crated. If a dog is not trusted free in the home, it should be crated. 

Step-by-step guide to crate training.

My favorite article on steps to positively crate train your dog are written by of of my faves, Casey Lomonaco.  You can find her article on clickertraining.com here, under the title "Keeping the Holiday Peace".  It's a crate training piece, not geared to discuss holidays.

GETTING OUT OF THE CRATE STAGE
The biggest question I get from dog owners [about crates] is -- When can my dog not use the crate anymore?  The answer is -- it depends on your dog.  Each dog is different, and some are trustworthy early on (I've known some as early as 9 months of age) while others aren't trustworthy until they are well into adulthood (I've known some as late as 2+ years).

The best way to gauge it is to test it by leaving your dog un-crated for a very short period -- say 10 minutes -- and come back and check things out.  Was there any destruction, any potty accidents, any signs of stress?  Even if just one magazine was ripped up then I'd back up and use the crate a bit longer.  For some crating might be for life and for some crating is just safer and a way for the dog to feel more secure, forever.  It's just going to depend on each individual dog.

Stacy Greer, CPDT-KA

Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

sunshinedog.com

Potty Talk.

Let's talk about potty problems.  I'll start with this ... if your adult dog is medically sound and you have potty issues the problem isn't the dog, it's the human(s).  Potty training is 99% a human problem not a dog problem.  The other 1% is dogs with medical conditions* that may contribute to potty problems. Puppies fall into a different category but ... still, even puppy potty mishaps can be avoided with proper supervision, consistency and diligence.  Read on ...

Dogs (of all ages) have to be taught where to potty appropriately.  This means some commitment and dedication on your part as the dog's owner.  You'll need to take the dog out, wait for potty and then praise after the deed is done.  There really is no other reliable way to get a dog to learn where to appropriately go potty.

The best, quickest and most reliable way to potty train your dog is to crate train it.  The crate is used to keep dog safe and secure so that he cannot run around and have accidents where he shouldn't.  The crate trains the dog (when done properly) to hold it and wait to potty where you have designated as appropriate, not to potty in the crate.

Let's discuss a few myths surrounding potty training and crate training.

MYTH: Limiting water will help prevent accidents. 
TRUTH: Limiting water can actually cause more potty problems (and health problems, possibly) than what you're wanting.  When you limit water a dog will then drink a whole lot when the dog does get access to water.  This then fills up the kidneys quickly and therefore the body will eliminate it more frequently.  When the dog has water at all times (yes even in a crate, safe area or wherever it may be confined to) they will learn to regulate their intake and will then be able to regulate their urine outflow.

Preventing water to some extent can possibly lead to dehydration as well, which can cause a whole hose of issues which will definitely compound potty troubles. Suggestions are to leave water out at all times as well as adding some liquid to the dog's diet if they are fed a commercial diet. You can add some bone broth to the meals, water or even a little bit of canned food.

MYTH: Rubbing your dog's nose in it will teach the dog that it's wrong to go inside the house.
TRUTH:  This has to be the oldest trick known to dog training.  However it's very inaccurate advice and will not help during potty training, often causing your dog to sneak away and potty when you aren't looking.

Rubbing a dog's face in an accident or pointing out and telling them they are bad, really pretty much does nothing towards training goals.  It will likely make the dog run from you when it sees you coming to attempt to avoid having it's face shoved in pee or poop. I mean ewwww, who enjoys that?!  Dogs just don't possess the ability to comprehend, "Ah! I peed here 10 minutes ago and now I'm getting in trouble for it. I shouldn't choose to do this again!"

Dogs learn by association and timing is everything.  So, if the dog isn't literally caught "in the act" then anything after that is pointless, and quite frankly your fault for not paying closer attention to your dog.

What your dog will learn is that every time he goes outside and potties he gets praised.  This is how positive reinforcement works.  You give something to the dog to increase the likelihood of the behavior being repeated.  Therefore, your dog will learn that pottying in the location where you praise her for going is the best course of action!

When you do catch your dog "in the act" just quickly interrupt the behavior, "hey!" and get the dog to the approved potty area you have chosen.  Then praise after the deed is completed.

MYTH: A doggie door and/or another [already potty-trained] dog will teach your dog to go outside.
TRUTH: A doggie door is a way for your dog to get outside and back in, nothing more.  If you have not taught your dog that going outside is appropriate then the doggie door isn't going to do that for you.

If you have another dog that reliably potties outside that doesn't mean your dog will just watch and go as well.  I have heard of this happening from others, but never have had it happen in my experiences. Again, your dog has to be specifically taught where the appropriate location is to potty.

MYTH: Dogs can pee or poop out of spite.
TRUTH: If your dog is going potty as a new behavior and you think this means your dog is "mad at you" then we need to evaluate what's going on.  Dogs don't possess the ability to be spiteful.  The most common reason a dog will start to potty inappropriately is due to anxiety and/or stress to a new situation or one that has manifested into an anxiety-inducing situation for the dog.  However, this could also be due to a medical problem as well. This should always be checked first by a veterinarian and secondly by a qualified behavior consultant that understands dog behavior.

When this occurs this isn't usually even the dog relieving himself but rather anxiety marking.  This can be done by any gender of dog, not just males, as well as dogs that have been spayed/neutered.

MYTH: All dogs should be potty trained reliably by 6 months of age.
TRUTH:  There is no age that your dog will magically be potty trained.  Some breeds take longer than others so to put a blanket statement on a time frame would be inaccurate.

Size often isn't a factor either. I know that Greater Swiss Mountain dogs are a breed that can take some time to potty train according to breeders and owners of these large gorgeous dogs.  They are usually 85 lbs and up to 120 lbs.  So they are large dogs!   While Great Danes are famously known for their ease and speed of potty training.  I recall my Dane was reliably potty trained by 10-11 weeks of age.  I didn't believe all the breeders I spoke with that always told me they were super fast and potty trained so quickly.  However, I had that experience myself.

Smaller breeds are notoriously known for taking longer, some more than others, such as Bichons and Yorkies. I do believe their very tiny bladders don't help them out in this area either!

But even with all that said, each dog is individual and each can take their own time.  Also, owner commitment and consistency are the biggest factors in a reliably potty trained dog.

WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO DO THIS QUICKLY?!
There is no way to fast track potty training.  Also, intelligence has no bearing on potty training. I often hear from clients that their dog must not be "smart" because the potty training is taking so long.  Usually other factors are hindering the process not a low doggie IQ!

DEFINE THE APPROPRIATE POTTY AREA
I always ask my clients -- Where do you want your dog to be going to the potty in say a year from now? This is where you need to take your dog each time during the training process to eliminate.  

IMPORTANT TIPS FOR SUCCESS 
1) Crate train, crate train, crate train. 
This is the best way to reliably house train your puppy and even your adult dog.  The crate is used as a tool to help your dog understand that she has to hold it until let out to the appropriate potty area.  The crate is used as a tool to help the puppy have a safe, warm and dry place to sleep and be put away when supervision isn't possible.
(Crate woes? Contact a trainer ASAP for help!)

Safe Area with grass patch.

2) Never put potty pads or a potty area inside the crate.  
Never put something that encourages a puppy or dog to go potty inside of a crate. The crate is not a potty, it's a home!  I've seen some people section off the crate with a potty pad/area on one end. Nope. Nope. Nopety. Nope.

3) Don't use potty pads.  Ever. 
This is a controversial one as some trainers do recommend these in some circumstances. I don't. Ever.  Potty pads have never, in my almost 18 years of training dogs, been a successful tool for potty training.  Often they work for a very short time until the dog either starts to use the potty near them but not on them or eats them.  After the potty pads are removed more often than not the dog will still go potty where the pad was, religiously too!  So, if you have pads in your home on the floor somewhere that will become your dog's regular potty area.

4) Use a Safe Area if needed.  
If you cannot get home to let a dog out every 4 hours (especially if you have a puppy under 5-6 months of age) or you live in an apartment/highrise you may want to look into a Safe Area.  This is a space blocked off by an x-pen with a potty patch of grass on one end and a bed, toys and water on the other.  Similar to the one in the pic above (I'd have the bed further away from the potty patch.)

My all time favorite potty patch is Fresh Patch.  It's real grass that they send new rolls of grass to you when yours needs to be replaced.  More realistic [than fake grass] for dogs that need to learn to transition to outdoor potty habits or that go outdoors as well as in the x-pen.

bulldog puppy with Fresh Patch

5) Go out to potty area with your dog. Every. Single. Time.
Far too many times this is where the potty training fails, completely.  This is the make or break rule right here! You must go out with your dog to be able to witness and praise when your dog goes potty.  This is the key to teaching your dog where to go appropriately. Watch, wait, then praise. 

6) Supervise like a helicopter mom (or dad!)
Don't let a puppy out of sight.  Stop a puppy during play (about 10-15 minutes in) and take out to go potty regardless of behavior.  Take puppy out upon waking from any type of sleep, before leaving the house and before going to bed (even naptime).  This is especially critical for really small dogs (under 15 lbs) and/or puppies under 5 months of age.  If you cannot supervise a puppy (even for 10 minutes) put the puppy in the Safe Area or crate the puppy.

For adult dogs that need to learn to potty in an appropriate location, take them to the designated potty location every 30-60 minutes for the first few weeks of being in your home. Gradually increase the time between potty breaks as they become more accustomed to it and/or show reliability.  Crate when unable to be supervised.  Follow the rules for a puppy with adult dogs as well -- Take dog out upon waking from any type of sleep, before leaving the house and before going to bed (even naptime).

7) Be consistent. 
Every single person that interacts with your dog must be consistent with the potty habits you've started.  If someone cannot supervise a young puppy or maintain the routine you've put into place then be sure the puppy or dog is crated so that no accidents or setbacks can occur in their care.

8) Setbacks might happen.  Medical issues might too.*
Be prepared for setbacks and accidents in the beginning.  Keep your cool. Just stick with it. If it's taking longer than you feel it should or your dog starts to have potty accidents out of character then always seek the help of a veterinarian to rule out a medical cause for potty problems.

This applies to puppies and dogs of all ages.  UTIs are not uncommon and can be an easy fix.  There are also other medical things that could be a reason for doggie potty problems.  Discuss with your vet and don't assume that a young puppy cannot have a medical cause or a middle-aged-already-potty-trained dog cannot have a medical cause.  Some have little to no symptoms other than potty issues.  So always err on the side of caution with that before jumping to behavioral conclusions.  If medical problems are totally cleared by a veterinarian then seek the advice of a professional for help.

TROUBLESHOOTING
If all else fails, you are losing your mind [or your sleep] then please contact a trainer near you.  Potty issues are often a cause for people to relinquish their pets to a shelter.  This is very disheartening given that potty problems are totally fixable. So, when all else fails call in the pros!  

Can't afford a pro? Then go back to the beginning.  Start small, keep a potty journal, remain consistent and don't allow time for error.

Happy potty training!  Oh and don't forget to go read my next blog post, "Crate Training Truths & Tips".
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*It is always recommended that you clear your dog of any and all medical problems if you are having a heck of a time with potty training.  Ask your veterinarian for a urinalysis and/or sterile urine culture.  If needed maybe even blood work and/or an ultrasound of the bladder.  You and your vet can figure out the best plan of action to take. 

Stacy Greer

Sunshine Dog Training & Behavior, LLC

sunshinedog.com